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Engine ticking @46K Miles - '22 eTorque Rubi

FreedomFur

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Popped the hood recently and started hearing a tick which I hadn't noticed before.

Is this normal for the 3.6 eTorque? It gets regular care, oil changes, etc.

Basically trying to figure out if this is the lifter or similar issue and if I need to get it to a dealer ASAP before the warranty expires.



Thanks everyone!
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FreedomFur

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azjl#3

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start with warranty. But good news it does not sound that bad,,,,,yet.

Might get lucky and it's an injector.
 

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Just made the appointment. They said they would try to get it in next week. Wife is due with our first kid this weekend so I'm going to drop it off tomorrow in case they can start early.
 

Not2Late

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That sounds normal. The component with the red clip on it in the middle of your video frame - thats the purge system. With your engine on, grab ahold of it and you can feel a valve clicking back and forth in it. The other noises sound like the normal noises of the valvetrain. These engines are kind of noisy in that regards. If you are under warranty, definately have them check it out, but I wouldn't worry too much about it until you definatively hear from them.
 

drrags

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One way to tell is open up JScan and go to Live Data. Select the first 6 Cylinder Misfires and hit the Play icon (I'm going by memory here). Start the engine and monitor the data. Drive it around and get it completely warm. If you get constant misfires, mostly at idle, on one cylinder, you probably have a stuck valve, bad lifter, bad cam or any of the other related parts. Take it to the dealer, seriously.

I went through all this and hoped for the best by replacing the injectors, plugs and coils. JScan continued to show the same misfire pattern. I then took it to the dealer since I still had 60 miles of warranty left. Yup, a stuck exhaust valve, because of a bad lifter/cam lobe. The thing is, these don't get repaired like in the old days; the entire head gets replaced.

For me, specifically, I was on some trails in Utah and heard some ticking. I fired up the JScan and saw I had a few misfires on cylinder #1, but only at idle. The next morning I had to come home and monitored it. As long as I was off idle I showed no misfires, but as I would pull into a gas station, the misfires would start to accumulate. Maybe 17 at a time, or 33, or whatever, just on the one cylinder. I dumped all kinds of fuel additives, but at every tankful on the way home, the same pattern would happen - accumulation of misfires at idle. I had no misfires and any RPM above idle. That pattern was over 1,200 miles. It won't blow up suddenly or anything like that and you can go thousands of more miles, but get it looked at soon than later.
 
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FreedomFur

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One way to tell is open up JScan and go to Live Data. Select the first 6 Cylinder Misfires and hit the Play icon (I'm going by memory here). Start the engine and monitor the data. Drive it around and get it completely warm. If you get constant misfires, mostly at idle, on one cylinder, you probably have a stuck valve, bad lifter, bad cam or any of the other related parts. Take it to the dealer, seriously.

I went through all this and hoped for the best by replacing the injectors, plugs and coils. JScan continued to show the same misfire pattern. I then took it to the dealer since I still had 60 miles of warranty left. Yup, a stuck exhaust valve, because of a bad lifter/cam lobe. The thing is, these don't get repaired like in the old days; the entire head gets replaced.

For me, specifically, I was on some trails in Utah and heard some ticking. I fired up the JScan and saw I had a few misfires on cylinder #1, but only at idle. The next morning I had to come home and monitored it. As long as I was off idle I showed no misfires, but as I would pull into a gas station, the misfires would start to accumulate. Maybe 17 at a time, or 33, or whatever, just on the one cylinder. I dumped all kinds of fuel additives, but at every tankful on the way home, the same pattern would happen - accumulation of misfires at idle. I had no misfires and any RPM above idle. That pattern was over 1,200 miles. It won't blow up suddenly or anything like that and you can go thousands of more miles, but get it looked at soon than later.
Great info, sorry to hear about your troubles.

Just dropped it at the dealer so I am hoping they take it seriously.

I don't have a Jscan, just a Tazer. Not sure if I can pull the data through it.

Was your noise loud enough to hear while driving? I can't here it even outside the Jeep until the engine good is popped open.
 

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Great info, sorry to hear about your troubles.

Just dropped it at the dealer so I am hoping they take it seriously.

I don't have a Jscan, just a Tazer. Not sure if I can pull the data through it.

Was your noise loud enough to hear while driving? I can't here it even outside the Jeep until the engine good is popped open.
Get JScan, for real. I have a Taser, too, and it has its place, but I use JScan much more often. And at $20, how can you say no? :)

No, it was not loud and I couldn't hear it with the hood closed. I stuck a screwdriver on the valve cover and the other end to my ear and compared the noises with the other valve cover. This means you caught it early (if that's what's going on). When you can hear it with the hood closed, that means it's been happening for awhile and is much worse. My 2016 JK was like that.

I'm glad you took it to the dealer.
 
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FreedomFur

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Get JScan, for real. I have a Taser, too, and it has its place, but I use JScan much more often. And at $20, how can you say no? :)

No, it was not loud and I couldn't hear it with the hood closed. I stuck a screwdriver on the valve cover and the other end to my ear and compared the noises with the other valve cover. This means you caught it early (if that's what's going on). When you can hear it with the hood closed, that means it's been happening for awhile and is much worse. My 2016 JK was like that.

I'm glad you took it to the dealer.
Is Jscan now an app? That all I need for the codes?

If things don't work at the dealer this will be next steps.
 

drrags

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Is Jscan now an app? That all I need for the codes?

If things don't work at the dealer this will be next steps.
JScan is an app for your phone. jscan.net
You'll also need an OBD port dongle. Get one that jscan recommends. Figure another $20. Take your time and play with it.
 

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Have you got it back for the dealership? Is it the rocker arm?
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