Drain diff before removing front axles? And other questions.

[cosmokenney]

I am putting in new ball joints this weekend and the ball joint instructions say I need to drain the diff before pulling out the axles. If I am going to put it in 4H and not remove the FAD, do I need to drain the diff? The service manual doesn't list draining the fluid.

Also most videos and instructions I've seen say to remove:
Steering Stabilizer
Drag Link
Tie Rod
Track bar

My Drag Link and Tie Rod have single use nuts so I would rather avoid that. I also can't see any reason to remove the track bar.

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[grimmjeeper]

You don't have to drain the diff but it's a good idea.

You have to pull the axle shafts to get the knuckles off so you can swap the ball joints. If you do them one at a time you can lift one side and let the gear oil flow to the low side. Then reverse it and do the other side. Otherwise it will drain out into the tube when you pull the shaft.

It's a good idea to drain and refill anyway. Pop the cover off, hose it out with some brake parts cleaner and give it a good visual inspection. The gasket is reusable so just pop the cover back on (or better yet, put on an aftermarket heavy duty cover if you haven't already), and refill when the shafts are back in.

The front M210 takes just a hint over a quart so get 2 quarts. Maybe get more and do an inspection in the rear (with HD cover installation) and refill it too.

 

[cosmokenney]

You don't have to drain the diff but it's a good idea.

You have to pull the axle shafts to get the knuckles off so you can swap the ball joints. If you do them one at a time you can lift one side and let the gear oil flow to the low side. Then reverse it and do the other side. Otherwise it will drain out into the tube when you pull the shaft.

It's a good idea to drain and refill anyway. Pop the cover off, hose it out with some brake parts cleaner and give it a good visual inspection. The gasket is reusable so just pop the cover back on (or better yet, put on an aftermarket heavy duty cover if you haven't already), and refill when the shafts are back in.

The front M210 takes just a hint over a quart so get 2 quarts. Maybe get more and do an inspection in the rear (with HD cover installation) and refill it too.

Thanks. I put new diff fluid in 2 months ago so I was also hoping to avoid buying even more stuff.
Also, do you know if I really need the angled adapter for pressing in the lower ball joints?

 

[grimmjeeper]

Thanks. I put new diff fluid in 2 months ago so I was also hoping to avoid buying even more stuff.
Also, do you know if I really need the angled adapter for pressing in the lower ball joints?

You need more than a simple ball joint kit. I use this kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08TMTCJN2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I used that short ring in the front (2½" x ¾") when pressing in both upper and lower joints.

And don't forget to disconnect the swaybar if you're lifting one side.

Also, the unit bearing bolts are 12 point either 13 or 15mm. You don't need to pull the unit bearing and shaft apart, pull them as one unit. And do your future self a favor and cover the mating surface between the knuckle and unit bearing with antisieze.

 

[2019 JLUR]

Special Note: Put it in 4H before starting job so sleeve for axle disconnect on passenger side is in correct position. Than axle will come out and go back in without removing axle disconnect motor.
Another quote I found: If you put the jeep in 4-hi first, that splined collar will move to the inner axle shaft. This keeps everything in the FAD together and aligned. Then the passenger axle can be removed and reinserted like normal; no need to remove FAD.

 

[CarbonSteel]

You need more than a simple ball joint kit. I use this kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08TMTCJN2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I used that short ring in the front (2½" x ¾") when pressing in both upper and lower joints.

And don't forget to disconnect the swaybar if you're lifting one side.

Also, the unit bearing bolts are 12 point either 13 or 15mm. You don't need to pull the unit bearing and shaft apart, pull them as one unit. And do your future self a favor and cover the mating surface between the knuckle and unit bearing with antisieze.

@cosmokenney - the kit that @grimmjeeper posted above is a good one. If you have an AutoZone near you they also loan them out. You have to leave a deposit, but they give it back when you return the kit.

The unit bearing bolts are 13 mm and 12 point.

 

[The_Murse]

Special Note: Put it in 4H before starting job so sleeve for axle disconnect on passenger side is in correct position. Than axle will come out and go back in without removing axle disconnect motor.
Another quote I found: If you put the jeep in 4-hi first, that splined collar will move to the inner axle shaft. This keeps everything in the FAD together and aligned. Then the passenger axle can be removed and reinserted like normal; no need to remove FAD.

So if i'm reading this correct you are saying I should keep it in 2wd and do the driver side. And then put it in 4hi and pull the passenger side and there will be no need to pull the FAD?

 

[JT1]

So if i'm reading this correct you are saying I should keep it in 2wd and do the driver side. And then put it in 4hi and pull the passenger side and there will be no need to pull the FAD?

Put it in 4HI before you start and don't change it. I just left the front axle on jack stands the entire time. No need to remove the track bar, but you do have to remove the drag link and tie rod on the passenger knuckle.

Put the new balljoints in the freezer when you start the tear down, they press in easier.

When you are finished, check the level in the front diff, I think I had to add like 5 ounces or so, one good squeeze on the bag.

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