Door storage ideas?

[Matt The Hammer]

No.I guess any compression concerns are less than more time exposed to UV rays and drying out the rubber. AT least they're indoors all summer.

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[FCrackerJLRubi]

@ACE Engineering has mounts for the JK/JL that hold the doors by the hinges on their website.

I was going to order those but with the way my garage is configured my wall real estate width wise is limited so I opted to go the build it myself route and do the extended hooks so that I can hold 2 doors per hook set.

 

[FCrackerJLRubi]

Any concern about damaging the window rubber flanges around the windows?

good point...maybe I will reconfigure my wall hook idea to be more of a wall shelf on the bottom and hooks up top...so I can let the base hold most of the weight and the hooks just keep them still while supporting minimal weight.

 

[mquinn13]

This is something I put together for my JL last week. Cost way more than $35, but its renter friendly and maybe weight 15 pounds.

I was thinking about putting together instructions, what do you think?

 

[jrohan07]

Looks great. Why not add 4 small casters so you can move it around loaded.

 

[FCrackerJLRubi]

so roughly what does this take to build? Its difficult to get the scale of it.

1" PVC - (call it 20 ft worth?)
4 x 360 degree rotation casters (optional, would need a way to mount them small u bolts maybe)
6 x T joints
14 x elbow joints
Pipe Insulation (call it 18 - 20 ft worth?)
Tape (electrical, or other rubber coated tape)
PVC glue/putty for the joints

 

[wired]

hard to see scale, but I'm guessing not 1" PVC, likely 1.5 (or 2") A lot of joints there $$

 

[FCrackerJLRubi]

@wired you might be right, I would think 1" would still hold though

Assuming you do not have any of this laying around at home, I used lowes.com.

4 door PVC rack
1" PVC x 20 ft. = $15.84
1" elbow joints $0.98 x 14 = $13.72
1" T (tee) joints $1.22 x 6 = $7.32
1" pipe insulation (sold in 6ft sections) $7.18 x 3 = $21.54
PVC glue = $4.98
Rubber coated tape (15ft was smallest roll avail.) = $4.95
Total without casters = $68.35

garage wall hooks (2 doors per hook)
2"x8"x8' $5.49 (cut to 50" to cover 4 wall studs with overlap assuming studs are 16 on center)
Wood screws 2.5"-3" = $10.20 for a 100 pack of star drive self tapping (not sure about smaller packages)
Steel hook (10" long hook, 2 pack) = $5.98 x 2 = $11.96
Total = $27.65

I got the idea for the hooks from another members post, and am going to modify it a little.

-Cut the 8' 2x8 to 50"
-Mount the 50" level across 4 studs at whatever height you want ensuring you leave plenty of room between the floor and the doors hanging height
-Mount the Steel hooks ensuring one for each of the sets is directly over a stud with the other 6-8 inches next to it (leave enough room between the two sets to ensure door width does not overlap)
-Enjoy

I probably would not mount both front doors on one hook since they are the heaviest doors, one front and one back door on each set. Given this worked fine for JK doors....JL doors are lighter so should be all good.

 

[Matt The Hammer]

Looks great. Why not add 4 small casters so you can move it around loaded.

I'd mount that to a large board with the casters mounted to the board. Like a skateboard. This way it wouldn't bow down in the middle when loaded.

You could also built that with 2 2x4 running the length at the bottom and make door separator loops out of iron pipe with those same pipe pads.

You only need 1/2" pipe to separate the doors. Rather than permanently mount the loops to the bottom frame - just drill holes and slide the loops in. Then when not needed, you can break the cart down for storage.

I think I'll just make this for myself and post photos...

Harbor Freight sells the mover dollies with castors for $8. This is what I used for my YJ one. But if you start with this and modify it a little..

 

[Matt The Hammer]

I probably would not mount both front doors on one hook since they are the heaviest doors, one front and one back door on each set. Given this worked fine for JK doors....JL doors are lighter so should be all good.

I have two of these for my YJ full doors. I also have the soft top stored on the top bars of this mount during the winter and hang the full fabric doors and the half doors with uppers on the same 2 hooks. Lowes - $6 I spaced them to hit the wall studs. Perfect space to hold the doors and even the soft top balanced on top.

 

[mquinn13]

so roughly what does this take to build? Its difficult to get the scale of it.

1" PVC - (call it 20 ft worth?)
4 x 360 degree rotation casters (optional, would need a way to mount them small u bolts maybe)
6 x T joints
14 x elbow joints
Pipe Insulation (call it 18 - 20 ft worth?)
Tape (electrical, or other rubber coated tape)
PVC glue/putty for the joints

so roughly what does this take to build? Its difficult to get the scale of it.

1" PVC - (call it 20 ft worth?)
4 x 360 degree rotation casters (optional, would need a way to mount them small u bolts maybe)
6 x T joints
14 x elbow joints
Pipe Insulation (call it 18 - 20 ft worth?)
Tape (electrical, or other rubber coated tape)
PVC glue/putty for the joints

Close! 1" PVC 30ft
14 elbows
10 Ts
PVC glue
cut with PVC pipe cutter for $13 at home depot

I thought about hanging but I rent and my garage is older and the studs in the wall concern me. I have a JL and the doors are way lighter but I just wanted something like horse stalls for my doors. Next is the roof...

 

[dwoodwo1]

Just finished mine. Just the front doors off for now... still have a 2 year old seat in back.

 

[mquinn13]

Just finished mine. Just the front doors off for now... still have a 2 year old seat in back.

Good looking Jeep!

 

[aug0211]

Just finished mine. Just the front doors off for now... still have a 2 year old seat in back.

Looks great! I’ve also got a GCM in order, and 2 seats in the back, so back doors stay on for me too

If I go this route, I will do something similar, but the same as what another earlier post in this thread mentioned to avoid any warping to then weather stripping/rubber.

I’ll go with 3 hooks per door:
•2 on the bottom - these are the load bearing hooks
•1 on the top - this is your “safety” hook, not load bearing and not tight against the door - just hanging over it (hung upside down) from above so that the door catches on it instead of falling forward in the event of it getting bumped.

I think i’ll need to slide the doors in to the hooks from the side, with this setup.

What’s everyone think?

 

[TPFilm1994]

Bought some hooks from Home Depot today. Mounted them to my fence, just inside my gate. I only run doors off wihen there’s no rain in the forecast so they won’t be outside when it rains. Will grab one more single hook so the front doors are held by three hooks. HD only had one of the double hooks, which is why I only have one double and two singles.

I added cut 2x4s to help brace the hooks. Will paint them white to match the rest of the fence.

Someone mentioned having a hook at the bottom, too. Might do that. Spread the weight, you know?

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