DIY Harness

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Bought some of the road shock edge lights from harbor freight. I also bout the harness needed for them. But noticed after opening it up I'd rather do my own harness as I won't need the relay or switch since I have an auxbeam 8 switch panel. My question is the manual says when wiring two lights to split in 12 gauge wire to the power source. Since its going in an auxbeam should I still do this? I will only be wiring up the high beams for this. I've included a diagram of what I'm currently thinking.

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[GATORB8]

You can run 14s from each light back to the Aux beam and not worry about splicing.

Is the relay back by the switch in the harness? You may be able to just chop the relay/switch end off and use the harness.

 

[hinkster]

You can run 14s from each light back to the Aux beam and not worry about splicing.

Is the relay back by the switch in the harness? You may be able to just chop the relay/switch end off and use the harness.

The relay is built into the auxbeam panel. I was going to do that with the harness I bought. But I figured for the 70 bucks that it cost. I could always just go buy the supplies in the future use them for other lights I get. I want to splice them together so they will both come on at once with once switch.

As shown form the link Auxbeam Switch Panels | The best way to control your electrical access

 

[GATORB8]

The relay is built into the auxbeam panel. I was going to do that with the harness I bought. But I figured for the 70 bucks that it cost. I could always just go buy the supplies in the future use them for other lights I get. I want to splice them together so they will both come on at once with once switch.

As shown form the link Auxbeam Switch Panels | The best way to control your electrical access

Agreed, you don't need the harness or a relay since it's built in. Wasn't sure you were returning it.

Looks like the lights come with the DT connector pigtails, that's nice. You want weathertight connections going back. I use marine grade heat shrink butt connectors that have adhesive inside the heat shrink. I'd sheath/loom the wires as well. I would not make the low beam or backlight runs unless you will use them in the future. Just cut the wires and cap with heat shrink on the pigtail,

 

[hinkster]

Agreed, you don't need the harness or a relay since it's built in. Wasn't sure you were returning it.

Looks like the lights come with the DT connector pigtails, that's nice. You want weathertight connections going back. I use marine grade heat shrink butt connectors that have adhesive inside the heat shrink. I'd sheath/loom the wires as well. I would not make the low beam or backlight runs unless you will use them in the future. Just cut the wires and cap with heat shrink on the pigtail,

Awesome thank you! Good idea on the sheath/looming. I was just going to use heat shrink for it. Do you think since I'm splicing them together to use 12 AWG wire like it says for the high beam function and the ground after where they splice? Or will I be safe to just use 14AWG.

 

[GATORB8]

Awesome thank you! Good idea on the sheath/looming. I was just going to use heat shrink for it. Do you think since I'm splicing them together to use 12 AWG wire like it says for the high beam function and the ground after where they splice? Or will I be safe to just use 14AWG.

You can also just use 12AWG all the way.

Their recommendations follow the standard for the 30 amp portion of the circuit, no reason to shortcut it.

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