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Different Tie Rod As Good As MC?

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CarbonSteel

CarbonSteel

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Just a note on positive offset, full flex full lock I can peel the boots off the MC end links at +18. Not sure the extra 1/4” on the XRs is enough to clear, but something to think about.
LOL...the more I think about it, I should just keep the Alphas, but dump the KO2's
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Indeed! But I do have to find a replacement for the KO2's, they have to go...
Definitely understand that. Out KO2s are probably our biggest limiting factor at this point.
 
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Definitely understand that. Out KO2s are probably our biggest limiting factor at this point.
For me, it is the inability for them to stay balanced that is the issue.
 

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For me, it is the inability for them to stay balanced that is the issue.
Wow, I’ve never had an issue. MTs chunking and going off balance was always more likely.
 

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My memory is terrible, but I remember it hitting the wheel weights one side and the edge of the rim on the other at full lock. I was changing my wheels at the time from stock Rubicon to Willys so I added the spacers.

To your point, I think (given the other changes that have been made on my suspension) that I may just go for the wheels and see what happens, then determine if grinding a bit will give the clearance needed.
Always ask to have inner wheel weights not crimp ons. I’ve had more issues with the crimp on rim weights hitting things due to tolerances. I have my sport axles with stock rubicon wheels rubbing the weights on the rear sway bar links when I put my lift on. Didn’t have that Issue after sealing to rubi axles but still the fix was all in the lead weights. I also recommend the hd synergy tierod. Mine took a good hit last weekend without any issues. Got jammed on it after slipping of a obstacle. Couldn’t find more than a scratch or two but held up just fine.

Jeep Wrangler JL Different Tie Rod As Good As MC? 8215875B-86EA-4199-9892-128C064EA19D
 

azjl#3

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Background--after upgrading to the full MC lift kit and all suspension pieces, the tie rod ends lightly rubbed on the inner rim at full lock on the OEM wheels. After discussing with MC, they attributed it to manufacturing tolerances on the FCA side of the house and they had only seen a few instances of it (lucky me). I attempted to adjust the steering stops, but there was not enough adjustment to compensate, so I installed a set of spacers which fixed it and when I upgraded my wheels, I chose 0 offset which is the same as the +44 offset OEM wheels and a 1.75" spacer.

Fast forward and I am considering replacing my wheels and tires and really like the look of the 392 XR beadlocks and like the OEM cap design (snap in) versus the bolt on caps for many brands of wheels. Obviously, those are +44 and I could potentially have the rubbing issue, though I have replaced the OEM aluminum steering knuckles with steel Mojave's and replaced the ball joints with Dynatracs so I may have compensated for the manufacturing tolerance issues and the rubbing may not occur, but I will not know until I install OEM wheels again.

Rather than "wait and see" I wanted to ask what everyone recommends as a different tie-rod brand that is as good as MC. Not really a super fan of Synergy, but would entertain it.

What else is out there? TIA!
This cost me 3 grand, 1500 for first set of rims, that then rubbed huge groves in on first tight turn at home, sold at loss back end rims, then 1500 for same set of rims different back spacing.
 
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Always ask to have inner wheel weights not crimp ons. I’ve had more issues with the crimp on rim weights hitting things due to tolerances. I have my sport axles with stock rubicon wheels rubbing the weights on the rear sway bar links when I put my lift on. Didn’t have that Issue after sealing to rubi axles but still the fix was all in the lead weights. I also recommend the hd synergy tierod. Mine took a good hit last weekend without any issues. Got jammed on it after slipping of a obstacle. Couldn’t find more than a scratch or two but held up just fine.

8215875B-86EA-4199-9892-128C064EA19D.jpeg
Yeah, the problem was they could not put enough weight on the inside to balance it and even without the weights the inner edge still rubbed at full lock.
 

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Yeah, the problem was they could not put enough weight on the inside to balance it and even without the weights the inner edge still rubbed at full lock.
well dang that sucks -_-
 

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JeepinJason33

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Sorry to hear your problems with the KO2's. There is an entire other thread on KO2's with opinions both way. Personally, I have them on each of my three daughters vehicles and have never had a problem with balancing. Smallest set is 31 and biggest is 35 and we have run these for years. Plenty of debate on them, but balancing is not one I commonly hear. Have you tried to swap out a buddies wheels and tires to see how they work? I am in Colorado and would offer to help, but I don't have a set with the right backspacing that you are looking for on the JL wheel bolt pattern.
 

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Yeah, the problem was they could not put enough weight on the inside to balance it and even without the weights the inner edge still rubbed at full lock.
Nitto tires are the best balancing tires I have ever owned.
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