Different Tie Rod As Good As MC?

[somedude922]

Background--after upgrading to the full MC lift kit and all suspension pieces, the tie rod ends lightly rubbed on the inner rim at full lock on the OEM wheels. After discussing with MC, they attributed it to manufacturing tolerances on the FCA side of the house and they had only seen a few instances of it (lucky me). I attempted to adjust the steering stops, but there was not enough adjustment to compensate, so I installed a set of spacers which fixed it and when I upgraded my wheels, I chose 0 offset which is the same as the +44 offset OEM wheels and a 1.75" spacer.

Fast forward and I am considering replacing my wheels and tires and really like the look of the 392 XR beadlocks and like the OEM cap design (snap in) versus the bolt on caps for many brands of wheels. Obviously, those are +44 and I could potentially have the rubbing issue, though I have replaced the OEM aluminum steering knuckles with steel Mojave's and replaced the ball joints with Dynatracs so I may have compensated for the manufacturing tolerance issues and the rubbing may not occur, but I will not know until I install OEM wheels again.

Rather than "wait and see" I wanted to ask what everyone recommends as a different tie-rod brand that is as good as MC. Not really a super fan of Synergy, but would entertain it.

What else is out there? TIA!

Hmmm this is good information. I have 0 offset wheels as well. I was concerned about rubbing with the gamechanger lift but have no issuses. I am do for tie rod replacement as mine is creaking. I was considering the MC tie rod, but now I am going to dig in a bit further.

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[GATORB8]

Hmmm this is good information. I have 0 offset wheels as well. I was concerned about rubbing with the gamechanger lift but have no issuses. I am do for tie rod replacement as mine is creaking. I was considering the MC tie rod, but now I am going to dig in a bit further.

Note, the 0 offset fixed his issue.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Hmmm this is good information. I have 0 offset wheels as well. I was concerned about rubbing with the gamechanger lift but have no issuses. I am do for tie rod replacement as mine is creaking. I was considering the MC tie rod, but now I am going to dig in a bit further.

You will have no issues with 0 offset--I am running 0 offset Icon Alphas now. It is +44 to +30ish where you **may** have issues.

 

[somedude922]

Ah! Thanks guys. I mis interpreted.

 

[ChuckQue]

I went with Steersmarts on the recommendation by my shop and I am super impressed with the quality of the setup. Paired it with a Fox 2.0 ATS.

 

[Headbarcode]

My memory is terrible, but I remember it hitting the wheel weights one side and the edge of the rim on the other at full lock. I was changing my wheels at the time from stock Rubicon to Willys so I added the spacers.

To your point, I think (given the other changes that have been made on my suspension) that I may just go for the wheels and see what happens, then determine if grinding a bit will give the clearance needed.

Personally, I'd avoid grinding any meat off of the rod ends. Any loss in the dimension containing the ball joint will result in a lessened strength rating. Also, the spot that gets shaved will become the point of potential failure.

I'm not a fan of wheel spacers, but I would much rather go that route long before grinding away the strength upgrade that I payed for.

Again, just my personal thoughts.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Personally, I'd avoid grinding any meat off of the rod ends. Any loss in the dimension containing the ball joint will result in a lessened strength rating. Also, the spot that gets shaved will become the point of potential failure.

I'm not a fan of wheel spacers, but I would much rather go that route long before grinding away the strength upgrade that I payed for.

Again, just my personal thoughts.

Yeah, not a fan myself for the reasons that you stated. I ran wheel spacers for several thousand miles so I know they will work. However, it may not be an issue at all because the XR wheels are +13 versus +44 so that will be more than enough to clear. One would think that MC would dig into this a bit--very easy to blame it on FCA versus (re)designing it to clear stock wheels in all circumstances.

 

[Headbarcode]

Yeah, not a fan myself for the reasons that you stated. I ran wheel spacers for several thousand miles so I know they will work. However, it may not be an issue at all because the XR wheels are +13 versus +44 so that will be more than enough to clear. One would think that MC would dig into this a bit--very easy to blame it on FCA versus (re)designing it to clear stock wheels in all circumstances.

This has me thinking deeper into this, which immediately raised a curiosity. Is the clearance issue in question due to the girth of the ball joint housing of the rod end, or is the rubbing happening on the threaded shaft inboard of the housing?

 

[CarbonSteel]

This has me thinking deeper into this, which immediately raised a curiosity. Is the clearance issue in question due to the girth of the ball joint housing of the rod end, or is the rubbing happening on the threaded shaft inboard of the housing?

The girth part--I'll grab a photo and post it (the line should still be visible on the tie-rod).

 

[GATORB8]

The girth part--I'll grab a photo and post it (the line should still be visible on the tie-rod).

Deeper, girth, shaft, rubbing. Dammit guys, this is a family forum.

 

[Headbarcode]

Deeper, girth, shaft, rubbing. Dammit guys, this is a family forum.

 

[CarbonSteel]

This has me thinking deeper into this, which immediately raised a curiosity. Is the clearance issue in question due to the girth of the ball joint housing of the rod end, or is the rubbing happening on the threaded shaft inboard of the housing?

Hard to see now that a few miles have transpired from then until now, but you can see the very light marks where the inner part of the wheel was hitting at full lock:

 

[JeepinJason33]

More importantly, how many bolts are on your factory rims. You may have a set worth more than beanie babies to some.

For reference, I have the KMC Machete Beadlocks. Their specs are -38MM offset and 3.50 backspacing and they do not come close to rubbing. I like the wider stance, but do not like that it is 85" from outside of tire to outside of tire. At 83", they fit on a regular car hauler and inside most trailers. At 85" you have to get driver over or removable fenders on the trailer.

 

[CarbonSteel]

More importantly, how many bolts are on your factory rims. You may have a set worth more than beanie babies to some.

For reference, I have the KMC Machete Beadlocks. Their specs are -38MM offset and 3.50 backspacing and they do not come close to rubbing. I like the wider stance, but do not like that it is 85" from outside of tire to outside of tire. At 83", they fit on a regular car hauler and inside most trailers. At 85" you have to get driver over or removable fenders on the trailer.

Yeah, for me anything more than -6 would be too wide. +12, +6, 0, or -6 is perfect.

 

[GATORB8]

Yeah, for me anything more than -6 would be too wide. +12, +6, 0, or -6 is perfect.

Just a note on positive offset, full flex full lock I can peel the boots off the MC end links at +18. Not sure the extra 1/4” on the XRs is enough to clear, but something to think about.

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