Cheap DIY Quick Disconnects for Non-Rubis

[TrailSnail]

Here are the super duper totally custom quick disconnects I made for my un-lifted Sport. Total cost was around 20 bucks.

Parts list:
- M12 x 55mm clevis pin x 1
- M12 x 60mm clevis pin x 1
- M4 cotter pins x 2
- M12 washers x 2-4
- Retaining straps x 2

Rundown:
The only stainless M12 clevis pins I could find were 100mm in length, so I had to cut them down. I cut the driver's side pin shank down to approximately 2.15" (~55mm) and the passenger side 2.35" (~60mm), re-drilled the cotter pin holes and beveled the nose and pin holes. Ideally, you may be able to locate clevis pins already made to these lengths, or close enough to make up the difference with washers and skip all the hassle.

Remove OEM lower link bolts/nuts. IIRC they were 18mm. Test fit your pins and use washers as necessary for a snug fit with minimal slop (especially on the driver's side where it only mounts to the axle with a single tab for whatever reason). I didn't have washers in place for the photos but fitment was loose without them.

The cotter pins I got also fit the clevis shanks loosely, so I used the bench vise to squish the two halves together for snug retention. YMMV.

When disconnecting, use the straps to secure the links to the bar. Rocket science.

Enjoy the enhanced flexibility.

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[The Fixer]

Here are the super duper totally custom quick disconnects I made for my un-lifted Sport. Total cost was around 20 bucks.

Parts list:
- M12 x 55mm clevis pin x 1
- M12 x 60mm clevis pin x 1
- M4 cotter pins x 2
- M12 washers x 2-4
- Retaining straps x 2

Rundown:
The only stainless M12 clevis pins I could find were 100mm in length, so I had to cut them down. I cut the driver's side pin shank down to approximately 2.15" (~55mm) and the passenger side 2.35" (~60mm), re-drilled the cotter pin holes and beveled the nose and pin holes. Ideally, you may be able to locate clevis pins already made to these lengths, or close enough to make up the difference with washers and skip all the hassle.

Remove OEM lower link bolts/nuts. IIRC they were 18mm. Test fit your pins and use washers as necessary for a snug fit with minimal slop (especially on the driver's side where it only mounts to the axle with a single tab for whatever reason). I didn't have washers in place for the photos but fitment was loose without them.

The cotter pins I got also fit the clevis shanks loosely, so I used the bench vise to squish the two halves together for snug retention. YMMV.

When disconnecting, use the straps to secure the links to the bar. Rocket science.

Enjoy the enhanced flexibility.

Back when I had my XJ, I remember reading threads on the jeepforum about using clevis pins to make budget-friendly quick disconnects. How's the on-road driveability with the pins, as opposed to the original bolts? Any fear that the cotter pins will snap during hard cornering?

 

[Zandcwhite]

Many aftermarket quick disconnects were basically copies of this for xj, tj, and zj Era Jeeps. There is no load on the cotter pin when cornering as the force is vertical on the clevis pin. The swaybar has minimal side to side movement even possible and there just isn't any load in that direction unless your track bar fails. If the axle is moving side to side enough to shear the clevis pin, the sway bar will be the least of your problems at that point.

 

[Zandcwhite]

Here are the super duper totally custom quick disconnects I made for my un-lifted Sport. Total cost was around 20 bucks.

Parts list:
- M12 x 55mm clevis pin x 1
- M12 x 60mm clevis pin x 1
- M4 cotter pins x 2
- M12 washers x 2-4
- Retaining straps x 2

Rundown:
The only stainless M12 clevis pins I could find were 100mm in length, so I had to cut them down. I cut the driver's side pin shank down to approximately 2.15" (~55mm) and the passenger side 2.35" (~60mm), re-drilled the cotter pin holes and beveled the nose and pin holes. Ideally, you may be able to locate clevis pins already made to these lengths, or close enough to make up the difference with washers and skip all the hassle.

Remove OEM lower link bolts/nuts. IIRC they were 18mm. Test fit your pins and use washers as necessary for a snug fit with minimal slop (especially on the driver's side where it only mounts to the axle with a single tab for whatever reason). I didn't have washers in place for the photos but fitment was loose without them.

The cotter pins I got also fit the clevis shanks loosely, so I used the bench vise to squish the two halves together for snug retention. YMMV.

When disconnecting, use the straps to secure the links to the bar. Rocket science.

Enjoy the enhanced flexibility.

While your rig is new and the bushings are tight you'll probably be OK just strapping the links to the bar. The bar can work it's way down and end up dragging on obstacles etc. Although not totally necessary, personally I'd strap one side up to the frame just to be safe.

 

[TrailSnail]

While your rig is new and the bushings are tight you'll probably be OK just strapping the links to the bar. The bar can work it's way down and end up dragging on obstacles etc. Although not totally necessary, personally I'd strap one side up to the frame just to be safe.

Good to know, thanks!

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