BRAKES!! Please Help!

[JEEP4U]

Never had go luck with Power Stops.

For 392 Rubi ? 350mm rears

EBC
Part No. DP41888R Yellow front pads Part No. RK7815 smooth rotors
Part No. DP43093R Yellow rear pads Part No. RK7909 smooth rotors


.....from EBC website:
EBC Yellowstuff Bed-in Procedure

• Fast Street use Pre Bed Fade 1 – drive 50 to 100 miles on Public road/highway normal driving to allow the pads to mate up to the disc and establish full contact followed by 8 stops from 80 mph to 30 mph at 300-yard intervals and then coasting allowing the brakes to cool.

Yellowstuff, although track-capable, is no longer recommended for track use on most cars due to its long bed in the process. BlueStuff is now our recommended entry-level race pad for all vehicles, which as a track hybrid is still great on the street and even better on track. But if you are to use Yellowstuff on the track, follow the below Fade procedures;

• FADE 2 – After the basic street pre-bed above is performed on the road or at the track if installed there …..Perform 10 medium pressure snubs at the track from 80-20mph leaving 300 meters between each snub (approx 0.4g decel)
  Allow pads to cool for 15 minutes minimum after coasting to the pits allowing brakes to cool a little.
• FADE 3 – Perform 6 high-pressure snubs from 90-20mph with a maximum acceleration between consecutive snubs. (approx 0.8g decel, or 80% of an emergency stop)
  Allow the brakes to fully cool for a minimum of 1 hour before the race session.
  We advise using disc heat paint to ensure green fade is avoided, continue reading below for more details

Real-world experienced driver – faster street bedding routine.

• We call this real world as it explains in a realistic and safe way how to accelerate this bed in the process. First, make sure you achieve the pad seating – we’re now going to bed the pads in with what we can describe as using “engine torque”.
• On a safe straight road with no cars close behind or in front at approx. 40-50 mph apply the brake to 30% or so pressure whilst continuing to press the accelerator to main vehicle speed for as long as safe to do so, you will need approximately a clear quarter mile to do this so make sure you have that. This will drag the brakes, get them hot and take them past the 400-500C level required for bed in and you may even smell brake odour. You may feel the pedal go a little spongy, if it gets too soft abort the process and start again later. What is too soft? Too soft means that you feel that the brakes are not responding well.
• Release the brake and coast for a mile, slowly, unless you have to make a stop.
• If you have to abort the process part way through, repeat it as soon as safe to do so.
• Coasting after the bed in to allow discs to cool as you should not park the vehicle with HOT brakes. So be sure you have a road where it is safe enough to do this procedure with no imminent bends or stops in front of you so you can roll for a while and allow discs to cool, but if you need the brakes USE THEM
• Allow the brake to fully cool ( if possible overnight) and repeat the exact same process again.
• Your pads should feel entirely different to before the process, they should feel sharp and much more responsive. This process is called eliminating “Green fade” by burning off those surface volatiles.
• You will see blue marks on the discs after you stop, these will go away in a few miles.

Second best rotors in my experience are the Raybestos Pros Grade rotors.

Sponsored

 

[tony6756]

Lube slider pins

 

[JLRyder]

I may have missed it, but did you change all 4 rotors and pads? This is a pretty simple system so it’s sorta weird. Also assuming that all is assembled using the correct parts and lube I’m going out on a limb here.

Some of your symptoms mirror issues with water in your brake system (other than the lack of lock up).

Have you measured the actual temperature when they’re hot and making the sound (ir temp gun)? Do you smell the brakes?

Is there a noticeable drag and/or noise when cool? How about hot? (Requires a quick jack and free hand spin).

You said you replaced the lines and fluid, how did it look? Was there something other than oil in the cup/pan? How about the old caliper?

Thinking outside the box here…

 

[Memcdowe]

Never had go luck with Power Stops.

For 392 Rubi ? 350mm rears

EBC
Part No. DP41888R Yellow front pads Part No. RK7815 smooth rotors
Part No. DP43093R Yellow rear pads Part No. RK7909 smooth rotors


.....from EBC website:
EBC Yellowstuff Bed-in Procedure

• Fast Street use Pre Bed Fade 1 – drive 50 to 100 miles on Public road/highway normal driving to allow the pads to mate up to the disc and establish full contact followed by 8 stops from 80 mph to 30 mph at 300-yard intervals and then coasting allowing the brakes to cool.

Yellowstuff, although track-capable, is no longer recommended for track use on most cars due to its long bed in the process. BlueStuff is now our recommended entry-level race pad for all vehicles, which as a track hybrid is still great on the street and even better on track. But if you are to use Yellowstuff on the track, follow the below Fade procedures;

• FADE 2 – After the basic street pre-bed above is performed on the road or at the track if installed there …..Perform 10 medium pressure snubs at the track from 80-20mph leaving 300 meters between each snub (approx 0.4g decel)
  Allow pads to cool for 15 minutes minimum after coasting to the pits allowing brakes to cool a little.
• FADE 3 – Perform 6 high-pressure snubs from 90-20mph with a maximum acceleration between consecutive snubs. (approx 0.8g decel, or 80% of an emergency stop)
  Allow the brakes to fully cool for a minimum of 1 hour before the race session.
  We advise using disc heat paint to ensure green fade is avoided, continue reading below for more details

Real-world experienced driver – faster street bedding routine.

• We call this real world as it explains in a realistic and safe way how to accelerate this bed in the process. First, make sure you achieve the pad seating – we’re now going to bed the pads in with what we can describe as using “engine torque”.
• On a safe straight road with no cars close behind or in front at approx. 40-50 mph apply the brake to 30% or so pressure whilst continuing to press the accelerator to main vehicle speed for as long as safe to do so, you will need approximately a clear quarter mile to do this so make sure you have that. This will drag the brakes, get them hot and take them past the 400-500C level required for bed in and you may even smell brake odour. You may feel the pedal go a little spongy, if it gets too soft abort the process and start again later. What is too soft? Too soft means that you feel that the brakes are not responding well.
• Release the brake and coast for a mile, slowly, unless you have to make a stop.
• If you have to abort the process part way through, repeat it as soon as safe to do so.
• Coasting after the bed in to allow discs to cool as you should not park the vehicle with HOT brakes. So be sure you have a road where it is safe enough to do this procedure with no imminent bends or stops in front of you so you can roll for a while and allow discs to cool, but if you need the brakes USE THEM
• Allow the brake to fully cool ( if possible overnight) and repeat the exact same process again.
• Your pads should feel entirely different to before the process, they should feel sharp and much more responsive. This process is called eliminating “Green fade” by burning off those surface volatiles.
• You will see blue marks on the discs after you stop, these will go away in a few miles.

Second best rotors in my experience are the Raybestos Pros Grade rotors.

Thanks for the response.

I may have missed it, but did you change all 4 rotors and pads? This is a pretty simple system so it’s sorta weird. Also assuming that all is assembled using the correct parts and lube I’m going out on a limb here.

Some of your symptoms mirror issues with water in your brake system (other than the lack of lock up).

Have you measured the actual temperature when they’re hot and making the sound (ir temp gun)? Do you smell the brakes?

Is there a noticeable drag and/or noise when cool? How about hot? (Requires a quick jack and free hand spin).

You said you replaced the lines and fluid, how did it look? Was there something other than oil in the cup/pan? How about the old caliper?

Thinking outside the box here…

Thanks for the reply. Fluid looked good. Most of it was flushed. Fluid in it now looks new.

Free spinning the wheel - you can hear a bit of scrubbing but it still spins freely.

I havent measured the actual temp. I do have a temp gun though and have checked to see if any were hotter than others and they were all pretty much the same.

Yeah all 4 corners have new rotors and pads. I even changed the front passenger hub today as it was a tad old. I’m baffled and frustrated. The noise is getting so loud it sounds almost like it’s coming from all 4 corners now.

 

[SLK RCK]

It won't be fluid related with your description that heating them up stops the squealing.

It probably goes away in the morning because there's a think layer of rust on the rotors and that prevents the vibration.

I always use anti-squeal spray on the back of all my pads and almost never have any noise (permatex disc brake quiet) It is a rubbery substance that sprays on sticky.

It's more probabale that you overheated the rotors/pads on break in, than not actually breaking them in.

Do they squeal under heavy load or very light load. Heavy = metal wear indicators or pad/rotor issues. Light = vibration of pads on rotor/caliper.

Sponsored