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Badland Apex Failure on 2nd Day of Use

johnparjr

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I wonder if its 90 days from purchase or install? Asking for a friend who’s had one sitting in his garage for about two years now…just waiting for that right time to install it…

cough @zeebo56 cough
it’s date of purchase
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Simz144

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Harbor Freight talks about returns being in the same condition as when bought. This has been installed in my bumper for a few weeks and has a broken line now. Between that and the free spool issue I have no interest in using it. Do you think they will take this back? (<30 since purchased)
I exchange mine yesterday because of the freespool issue and the lady said that event if the winch is in pieces, as long a they can tell it a apex winch, the are going to warranty it or refund me.

I would splice the line and bring it back.
 

GoatHerder

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Warn has a rebate program going now. Gets the cost closer to the badland.
 

BUSHRVN

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On my previous JL I had a Warn Zeon 12-S platinum installed and I never had any issues with it like this. The install was exactly the same, factory steel bumper did not modify the entrance or anything like that. Any idea what might have been different with the Warn? Hoping to understand it better to not repeat the issue. Also same winch plate – maximus 3
Is the spool wider on the Apex compared to the Zeon? If so, that would be a part of the difference from your last one. A wider spool will get rope farther to the sides of the drim causing contact with the bumpers fairlead mount like shown on your picture. I added a radius to all the steel plate edges on my Warm mount plate with a Warn Evo 10 and a Yankum fairlead just to be safe.
 
OP
OP
tehfrr

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Thanks, eligible for $200 back.

The drum on the zeon 12-S has a larger diameter than the Badland. I widened the hole on the steel bumper with a die grinder, kept the Maximus 3 plate, went with the 1.5” fairlead and ultrahook from Factor 55, and upgraded the power cables to 1/0 ultraflex from polarwire.com.

As soon as the fairlead comes in I’m putting it all back together hopefully for the last time.
 

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Your fairlead is getting gouged pretty bad for some reason. Important that the line stays clean. Important that the bumper cutout is set back enough, (meaning significantly larger) so the line doesn’t rub on bumper cutout.

Any fairlead will wear, so long term it is good to inspect it along with your line whether it be steel or synthetic. Good luck.
 

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Harbor freight: Merchandise may be returned within 90 days for a full refund or replacement, whichever you prefer. Customer Service at Harbor Freight Tools - Returns and Exchanges

On my previous steel bumper, I had to cut the opening out to ensure the line did not cut, catch, or rub. The opening was just too small.

I've had very good luck with a roller fair lead. Yes, you can use a roller fair lead with synthetic line. Do you really believe roller fairleads don't work with synthetic rope? (youtube.com)

I don't have any statistics but from what I've noticed; There seems to be more reports of problems with the Apex winch series than the ZXR winch series. Why? I don't know, maybe they just sell more of them. I realize this doesn't relate to the OP's situation.

Off topic: I don't recommend purchasing a sump pump from HF. I almost did, but I found out there is absolutely no in store warranty unless you purchase the extended warranty plan. I said, just to clarify, if I purchase the pump & take it home right now, today, and it doesn't work I cannot bring it back to the store in the same day, not even a 24-hour warranty? HF said, that's correct, you have to call the number provided. Out of curiosity I called the number, it was a recording.
 

Yawnie'sPapa

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I’m far from an expert, so just thinking out loud. The ends of each strand in your pic look cut more than torn. i would carefully check the fairlead and the bumper opening immediately behind it. Here is an example of pic on line for a broken synthetic line. Again there are folks with far more experience than me that can answer.
IMG_1081.jpeg
Adding to that - I've noted some winch plates situate the Apex winch a bit low and the rope comes through the bumper rubbing on the bottom of the bumper opening. I've talked of putting spacers under my winch to prevent the rope from coming out through the bottom half of the bumper opening. you can see that the bottom of the spool lines up with the bottom of the bumper opening meaning it's possible for the rope to actually be cut.
Time to lift my winch with spacers, open the bumper opening a bit so the rope only ever touches rounded edges of the fairlead.
 

Yawnie'sPapa

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Your fairlead is getting gouged pretty bad for some reason. Important that the line stays clean. Important that the bumper cutout is set back enough, (meaning significantly larger) so the line doesn’t rub on bumper cutout.

Any fairlead will wear, so long term it is good to inspect it along with your line whether it be steel or synthetic. Good luck.
That's exactly the problem mine has - the line can actually rub on the steel bumper opening. I need to cut that opening down a bit so the rope can't possibly touch it and even get a better fairlead as the back side of the one supplied with the apex winch isn't exactly rounded well like the front side.
 

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That's exactly the problem mine has - the line can actually rub on the steel bumper opening. I need to cut that opening down a bit so the rope can't possibly touch it and even get a better fairlead as the back side of the one supplied with the apex winch isn't exactly rounded well like the front side.
That's another reason I like the roller fair lead, the rollers create a smaller opening, lifting, protecting the winch line from rubbing on the fairlead mount, bumper and/or fair lead mount depending.
 

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Yawnie'sPapa

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That's another reason I like the roller fair lead, the rollers create a smaller opening, lifting, protecting the winch line from rubbing on the fairlead mount, bumper and/or fair lead mount depending.
And rollers are ok with synthetic?
Hmmmmmm...........
 

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SargeDiesel

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I’m far from an expert, so just thinking out loud. The ends of each strand in your pic look cut more than torn. i would carefully check the fairlead and the bumper opening immediately behind it. Here is an example of pic on line for a broken synthetic line. Again there are folks with far more experience than me that can answer.
IMG_1081.jpeg
Revisiting... definitely looks cut / frayed.
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