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klhjeep2018

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Totally plug and play with the exception of the two wires that you have to run to the wiring harness of the driver's door and the power wire you run to the main battery. IF you do not care about being able to control your windows with your FOB, then you don't have to run the wires to the wiring harness of the driver's door. You DO still need to run the wire to the battery.
If you have the auxiliary switches theres a Constant hot 12 volts in those so I’m planning on using that for the battery constant. I just ordered 1 yesterday, So I wanted to thank everyone on this post for their input. As always you guys are the best!
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If you have the auxiliary switches theres a Constant hot 12 volts in those so I’m planning on using that for the battery constant. I just ordered 1 yesterday, So I wanted to thank everyone on this post for their input. As always you guys are the best!
As long as that can handle 20amps. There's a lengthy thread on the Gladiator forum and it requires 20amps when all 4 windows are moving.
 

Rhinebeck01

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As long as that can handle 20amps. There's a lengthy thread on the Gladiator forum and it requires 20amps when all 4 windows are moving.
That direct to battery wire in the aux bundle / passenger foot well is 10 amp.
 

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If you have the auxiliary switches theres a Constant hot 12 volts in those so I’m planning on using that for the battery constant. I just ordered 1 yesterday, So I wanted to thank everyone on this post for their input. As always you guys are the best!
Can't, it pops that immediately. You need to run a circuit to the fuse box (I did an "add a fuse" to an existing 20amp terminal) or battery. The inline fuse is 25amp.

The extra wire under the dash I think was only 5 or 10 amps.

It doesn't use much power, but it surges, like all windows do, when it hits top or bottom of travel,
 

klhjeep2018

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Can't, it pops that immediately. You need to run a circuit to the fuse box (I did an "add a fuse" to an existing 20amp terminal) or battery. The inline fuse is 25amp.

The extra wire under the dash I think was only 5 or 10 amps.

It doesn't use much power, but it surges, like all windows do, when it hits top or bottom of travel,
Thanks for the Info, I'll go by that when I install everything.
 

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TimR

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Can't, it pops that immediately. You need to run a circuit to the fuse box (I did an "add a fuse" to an existing 20amp terminal) or battery. The inline fuse is 25amp.

The extra wire under the dash I think was only 5 or 10 amps.

It doesn't use much power, but it surges, like all windows do, when it hits top or bottom of travel,
I just ran the power wire directly to my battery and it's been working fine. Should I have added a fuse to it?
 

Rhinebeck01

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I just ran the power wire directly to my battery and it's been working fine. Should I have added a fuse to it?
Yeah...........
 

MacombRoger

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I just ran the power wire directly to my battery and it's been working fine. Should I have added a fuse to it?
The wire provided from 3W has a inline 25amp fuse on it already. I have a 2nd fuse with the "Add a fuse", but that is redundant.
 

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MacombRoger

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Yes, black plastic piece about 1.5" x 1" on the red wire.
And I wanted to check the fuse inside to get its size, that cover was a pain to remove. Almost threw the towel in on the whole project trying to open that fuse cover. Just kidding, but it was a PITA.
 
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fonzie

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I installed this module as you had shown when I got my '20 back in July. I noticed then that if I key off with the windows down, next key on they fully close. Is there a fix for that? Thanks!
Weird... Not sure that should happen...
 

dsgrey

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Installed this morning and works great. Tapping into the door wires above the harness was fun. I just drilled another hole in the driver's side plastic firewall plug and ran the wire to the battery. Same thing I did when I installed my dashcam wiring a long time back.
 

klhjeep2018

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I have to say it would have been nice if they made the harness that goes to the module about 6 inches longer, I would have paid 20 bucks more. Just to not fight the tight fit. Sure as shit glad about the JT forum write up on the door harness wiring. As the video on the 3W website had the colors wrong. Glad I double checked.But everything works. Happy with the product, hope it lasts.
 

klhjeep2018

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Can't, it pops that immediately. You need to run a circuit to the fuse box (I did an "add a fuse" to an existing 20amp terminal) or battery. The inline fuse is 25amp.

The extra wire under the dash I think was only 5 or 10 amps.

It doesn't use much power, but it surges, like all windows do, when it hits top or bottom of travel,
After seeing the battery red wire its only about 16ga. Wire, so I hope the surge is very short. Alot for a small gauge wire.
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