Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[sandor.g]

Thanks for your help. I decided to go with the JL stuff, seeing as I don't need the extra channel. The component JL's are relatively cheap so II'm also ok with that.

I will skip the PAC4 for now and see what it sounds like. If I can adjust the DSP then we are golden, if not, I will just buy a PAC4.

I don't want to mount the amp under the seat, I'd rather keep it high in case we cross water. Any secret hidden locations you can recommend for the amp?

I still don't really see how you will connect the speaker level signal to the JL amp, but if JL Audio says it's doable, than it is for sure, you'll just have to come up with some RCA wires from the head unit.

BTW, I'm using channels 5 and 6 bridged for my sub, so currently there is no extra channel for me

A Jeep interior in my mind is as open as it could be, so there are not many surprise locations and I believe you have a two door so, I'm not really sure what would be your best guess, so I won't be any good help for you unfortunately.

Sponsored

 

[ModMike]

I still don't really see how you will connect the speaker level signal to the JL amp, but if JL Audio says it's doable, than it is for sure, you'll just have to come up with some RCA wires from the head unit.

BTW, I'm using channels 5 and 6 bridged for my sub, so currently there is no extra channel for me

A Jeep interior in my mind is as open as it could be, so there are not many surprise locations and I believe you have a two door so, I'm not really sure what would be your best guess, so I won't be any good help for you unfortunately.

Don't hate me but I have no intention of running wires. Does anyone have recommendations for a nice factory harness adapter? I'd also like the jeep speaker harness adapters. I need to be able to pull the system if and when we change models.

Been looking for an hour but can't find. My Google skills are keyword deficient

 

[sknyfats]

Don't hate me but I have no intention of running wires. Does anyone have recommendations for a nice factory harness adapter? I'd also like the jeep speaker harness adapters. I need to be able to pull the system if and when we change models.

Been looking for an hour but can't find. My Google skills are keyword deficient

You used to be able to buy a nice T-Harness for like $45 that was used in the $1300 Alpine amp/sub upgrade kit, but they stopped selling them separately. The PAC AmpPro comes with a T-Harness to connect to your radio and then the factory harness plugs into the T-harness. Then you run RCA’s from the PAC AmoPro to your amp. I think there’s a company called Axess or something like that which sells a harness that may work too - but they state it needs to be used with their DSP. I’m guessing it might still be functional for other applications - I don’t know. There’s a reason why people have gone with the small handful of options here (PAC AmpPro (preamp), DSR-1 (DSP) or JL FIX 86 (DSP)...maybe a few reasons depending on amps being used & user preference. For me, the PAC AmpPro seems to be the least expensive & simplest for my application (low powered amp and going to use the factory speaker wires instead of running new ones).

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

All, I've seen several references stating that using the JL Fix86 or PAC with an amp that has a built-in DSP is overkill. OK, yes, they both offer digital signal processing, but the processing that's occurring is addressing different things in each device. (Exception: Some AudioControl Amps can do both, but it's their high-end stuff, check out their site for more detail.)

The JL Fix86, PAC and some AudioControl devices are designed to be used as Line Out Converters on steroids. The processing in these components is almost exclusively dedicated to converting a highly equalized stock signal designed for very small, crappy speakers, into as flat of a signal as possible. JL's product, as well as AudioControl's products are much better at doing this, with the PAC doing a pretty decent job. The PAC's benefit is that it comes with the harness.

The DSP features that are built into amps, such as the VXi series, actually use DSP processing for Tuning (not flattening the stock sound source), Time Delay, Cross-overs, Sound Routing, etc.

The point is each device is purpose built to do their own things, and to do them well.

I feel compelled to point out that I think it's a HUGE mistake to put tons of money into an amp/system and not flatten the signal first. Going that route is OK if you're just running a sub, though the amplification of the highly-equalized stock signal will introduce undesirable results that are near impossible to tune.

I can clarify further, but do your research and avoid making a mistake that causes you to buy more equipment later and re-do a fair portion of your installation.

 

[ModMike]

All, I've seen several references stating that using the JL Fix86 or PAC with an amp that has a built-in DSP is overkill. OK, yes, they both offer digital signal processing, but the processing that's occurring is addressing different things in each device. (Exception: Some AudioControl Amps can do both, but it's their high-end stuff, check out their site for more detail.)

The JL Fix86, PAC and some AudioControl devices are designed to be used as Line Out Converters on steroids. The processing in these components is almost exclusively dedicated to converting a highly equalized stock signal designed for very small, crappy speakers, into as flat of a signal as possible. JL's product, as well as AudioControl's products are much better at doing this, with the PAC doing a pretty decent job. The PAC's benefit is that it comes with the harness.

The DSP features that are built into amps, such as the VXi series, actually use DSP processing for Tuning (not flattening the stock sound source), Time Delay, Cross-overs, Sound Routing, etc.

The point is each device is purpose built to do their own things, and to do them well.

I feel compelled to point out that I think it's a HUGE mistake to put tons of money into an amp/system and not flatten the signal first. Going that route is OK if you're just running a sub, though the amplification of the highly-equalized stock signal will introduce undesirable results that are near impossible to tune.

I can clarify further, but do your research and avoid making a mistake that causes you to buy more equipment later and re-do a fair portion of your installation.

I understand all that but why put a DSP to correct the signal first and THEN tune it with a DSP equipped amp? Seems a little over kill to me. Check out the JL audio install by JL Audio techs on a jeep JL.

The JL Audio tech I spoke to today echoed your sentiments in that he said using the signal directly may produce unpredictable responses. He agreed the video seems to show it would be ok.

Whats the worst that could happen? I am not getting that amp to avoid the PAC4 so I can always add it if I am not happy.

 

[ModMike]

All, I've seen several references stating that using the JL Fix86 or PAC with an amp that has a built-in DSP is overkill. OK, yes, they both offer digital signal processing, but the processing that's occurring is addressing different things in each device. (Exception: Some AudioControl Amps can do both, but it's their high-end stuff, check out their site for more detail.)

The JL Fix86, PAC and some AudioControl devices are designed to be used as Line Out Converters on steroids. The processing in these components is almost exclusively dedicated to converting a highly equalized stock signal designed for very small, crappy speakers, into as flat of a signal as possible. JL's product, as well as AudioControl's products are much better at doing this, with the PAC doing a pretty decent job. The PAC's benefit is that it comes with the harness.

The DSP features that are built into amps, such as the VXi series, actually use DSP processing for Tuning (not flattening the stock sound source), Time Delay, Cross-overs, Sound Routing, etc.

The point is each device is purpose built to do their own things, and to do them well.

I feel compelled to point out that I think it's a HUGE mistake to put tons of money into an amp/system and not flatten the signal first. Going that route is OK if you're just running a sub, though the amplification of the highly-equalized stock signal will introduce undesirable results that are near impossible to tune.

I can clarify further, but do your research and avoid making a mistake that causes you to buy more equipment later and re-do a fair portion of your installation.

On second thought, it comes with a T-harness and I can add the TOSlink module for a really easy install. I may go for it.

 

[Jebiruph]

Yeah - I wasn’t even referring to wire diagram colors - but I double checked just now and the + & - are definitely backwards on the diagram, assuming the factory wired it correctly.
I’ve only swapped out the 4 3.5” speakers and verified + & - doing the battery test. Each had positive on the non-capacitor side and negative is the capacitor side.

My main reason for replying is because the statement that capacitor side is positive is incorrect & it also appears the diagram may be as well. At least based on my 2020 JL 2 door with 7” base radio. I understand about keeping things in phase. I always test/verify positive when swapping out speakers.

Battery test with factory 3.5”

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AoB7rKT5K2U8jPQHy8GgVDQLcKMT7w

To clarify, you seem to be agreeing that the capacitor side is positive based on the factory diagram, but based on your battery test the factory diagram is wrong. Maybe that explains the issue with the Metra adapters that are connecting the factory + to the speaker -.

The most important thing is to connect all the speakers in phase, either all connected + to + or all connected + to -. If all the speakers are replaced using the Metra adapters, they will still all be in phase with each other. If only some of the speakers are replaced using the Metra adapters, those will be out of phase unless the Metra wires are modified.


Here's the factory diagram which shows gray/violet as positive and a picture that shows the Metra adapter connecting the gray/violet wire to the black Metra wire which has the small spade connector and will connect to the negative terminal of a speaker.

 

[tthoms]

Looking at the back of the accessory outlet up in front on the dash...Which one is the positive wire? The pink or the orange? Going to tap it for my remote amp wire. Can’t find the answer anywhere

 

[tthoms]

Looking at the back of the accessory outlet up in front on the dash...Which one is the positive wire? The pink or the orange? Going to tap it for my remote amp wire. Can’t find the answer anywhere

Nevermind. Got it. It is the pink one. All powered up

 

[Grendel602]

Question for the group.

I have the 8.4" Alpine factory amplified system on my '19 JLU Rubicon. I purchased the PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 thinking I could connect it to my factory amplified system and just run RCA's from this module to my aftermarket JL HD900/5 and run new speaker wire to my new front components (front channels bridged) and subwoofer (I do not want sound coming out of sound bar or the stock sub).

So the question is...do I need this additional module/harness? I don't think that I do.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541APHCH01/PAC-APH-CH01-AmpPro-Harness.html

Full system is the following as of now:

PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41
JL HD900/5 (bridging front channels)
Metra 6.5" Speaker Pods for front
Hertz Mille MPK 163.3 PRO 6-1/2" Component System
JL 10W6V3 for the sub
Disconnect sound bar and stock sub

 

[tthoms]

So I’ve got my install done. New speakers in the knee panels and roll bar work (and sound) great. PAC module and amp working great. However, the new 3.5” speakers in the dash corners don’t work no matter how I wire them. Checked for correct polarity. They are connected to the stock stereo speaker wire. Is there something I’m missing? I thought these would still work with power from the stock stereo, no?
Forgive me if the answer is obvious, my first self-install ever! Thanks

 

[tthoms]

When you get it and read the manual you'll see, it is as straightforward as it could be.
What to use? Well, what works best for you. I did use a jigsaw and a dremel but if I'd do ir again, I'd use a hot knife (hot knife attachments for soldering irons) to cut nicer and smoother.

I know that spot on the driver side, that's where my dashcam power wire is going through.

Dremel worked fairly well. Couldve been cleaner but the adapters hide any ugliness haha. Man, this entire install was a beast. Had fun but glad it’s just about over.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Question for the group.

I have the 8.4" Alpine factory amplified system on my '19 JLU Rubicon. I purchased the PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 thinking I could connect it to my factory amplified system and just run RCA's from this module to my aftermarket JL HD900/5 and run new speaker wire to my new front components (front channels bridged) and subwoofer (I do not want sound coming out of sound bar or the stock sub).

So the question is...do I need this additional module/harness? I don't think that I do.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541APHCH01/PAC-APH-CH01-AmpPro-Harness.html

Full system is the following as of now:

PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41
JL HD900/5 (bridging front channels)
Metra 6.5" Speaker Pods for front
Hertz Mille MPK 163.3 PRO 6-1/2" Component System
JL 10W6V3 for the sub
Disconnect sound bar and stock sub

Correct, you won't need that additional harness, though you do need to make sure you're using the R2 (Revision 2) version of the PAC.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

So I’ve got my install done. New speakers in the knee panels and roll bar work (and sound) great. PAC module and amp working great. However, the new 3.5” speakers in the dash corners don’t work no matter how I wire them. Checked for correct polarity. They are connected to the stock stereo speaker wire. Is there something I’m missing? I thought these would still work with power from the stock stereo, no?
Forgive me if the answer is obvious, my first self-install ever! Thanks

When you added the PAC, you replaced the stock harness, which now sends the stock radio's signal through the PAC module, processes it, then sends the processed signal to your amp via RCA's.

Without modification those speakers aren't connected anymore.

I've wondered if using the supplied wire harness that PAC includes (the one that allows you to use the stock wiring for your amplifier's output) may provide a solution? While it might degrade your PAC's incoming signal, it would seem you could tap the front channel's stock speaker wires coming out of the PAC's harness that's directly connected to the radio, routing them to the supplied harness' front channel wires for using the factory speaker wiring. This isn't verified, nor is it recommended.

If anything, I'd either amplify those with their own small amp, or run them in series with your existing speakers.

 

[tthoms]

When you added the PAC, you replaced the stock harness, which now sends the stock radio's signal through the PAC module, processes it, then sends the processed signal to your amp via RCA's.

Without modification those speakers aren't connected anymore.

I've wondered if using the supplied wire harness that PAC includes (the one that allows you to use the stock wiring for your amplifier's output) may provide a solution? While it might degrade your PAC's incoming signal, it would seem you could tap the front channel's stock speaker wires coming out of the PAC's harness that's directly connected to the radio, routing them to the supplied harness' front channel wires for using the factory speaker wiring. This isn't verified, nor is it recommended.

If anything, I'd either amplify those with their own small amp, or run them in series with your existing speakers.

Much appreciated. I was afraid that what you described was the case. I’ll look into how to wire speakers in series and weigh my options. I would prefer not to get another amp for them, but might consider it because I might get install sub in the near future, so I might need one.

Sponsored