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Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

ToPar9

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I'm running the Focal 6.5" 2-way components in my soundbar, then the Focal 6.5" 3-way components up front, with the 6.5", 3", 1" on each side. FYI, the 3" Focal needs a bracket fabricated somehow to fit the dash 3.5" speaker location. I'm running a 5-channel amp, 4x75 for the soundbar and up front speakers, running strait into the provided crossover.
Gonz, I always appreciate your feedback.
The other possibility would be to run 6.5 and 3 front (coax), with 6.5 and 1 back (coax). Run them parallel on a 4-channel, 2-ohm amp. correct?
Pulling this out of you know where ...
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ToPar9

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I'm running the Focal 6.5" 2-way components in my soundbar, then the Focal 6.5" 3-way components up front, with the 6.5", 3", 1" on each side. FYI, the 3" Focal needs a bracket fabricated somehow to fit the dash 3.5" speaker location. I'm running a 5-channel amp, 4x75 for the soundbar and up front speakers, running strait into the provided crossover.
Annnnnd, I am still looking forward to your build completion.
 

ToPar9

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I'm running the Focal 6.5" 2-way components in my soundbar, then the Focal 6.5" 3-way components up front, with the 6.5", 3", 1" on each side. FYI, the 3" Focal needs a bracket fabricated somehow to fit the dash 3.5" speaker location. I'm running a 5-channel amp, 4x75 for the soundbar and up front speakers, running strait into the provided crossover.
Andy, something like this might work.
https://www.jbtools.com/audiopipe-r...MInZa7l_bP6AIVDSsMCh2GOwScEAkYAiABEgJY5fD_BwE
 

Biconia

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Update : can't figure out the HISS problem on the stereo
tried switching the RCA , new ground , new remote , when i adjust the Gain + Freq Hiss goes almost away but still there been trying all day.. and now debating to remove all the system or find the awnser around...

*Pac unit can be defected ?
*need to add Resistor ?

if any one had this kind problems can please chime in...

thank you
 
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Sting_NC_USA

Sting_NC_USA

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So I have read through this entire thread and I am having an issue. I have a 2019 JLUR that I am upgrading the entire system except the head unit. I want to tap into the factory wiring for wires going to the dash and sound bar. Does anyone know what wires need to be tapped at the factory amp to accomplish this. I know it has to be after the factory amp to work correctly. I have a AmpPro AP4-CH41 installed. I was just hoping to go to one place to tap into all the factory wires. FWIW I replaced factory dash and sound bar speakers with Kicker 3.5 and 4" KS series speakers. Any help would be much appreciated
Sorry, I missed your post! If you're using the PAC device, you shouldn't have to tap into the speaker wires yourself. You simply run the amplified signal (via speaker wires) to the wire dongle that came with the PAC. I haven't actually done that before, as I typically run new wiring, though the manual indicates that's how you get your add-on amp's signal back through the stock speaker wires. I'd validate that's how you interpret it from the manual yourself, as I rarely like to provide advice on something I haven't yet done myself.

Happy to answer any follow-up questions.
 

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Sting_NC_USA

Sting_NC_USA

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Update : can't figure out the HISS problem on the stereo
tried switching the RCA , new ground , new remote , when i adjust the Gain + Freq Hiss goes almost away but still there been trying all day.. and now debating to remove all the system or find the awnser around...

*Pac unit can be defected ?
*need to add Resistor ?

if any one had this kind problems can please chime in...

thank you
Missed your post earlier, sorry about that! If you've resolved your issue, just skip this...

Try unplugging the RCA from the amp, with everything else connected. Does it still hiss? If so, the amp's gain could be set too high, or the amp could have a bad pot switch (one of the rotating knobs). If you hear static when you turn the gain knob, turn off the Jeep, rotate the gain knob all the way up, then all the way down, and repeat that like 20-30 times. Sometimes the gain controls corrode a bit, and if they aren't too bad, that can help it.

If you unplug the RCA's from the Amp and the Hiss does go away, there's definitely something going on with the PAC. It could be that something went wrong in the calibration process. Try resetting it and re-calibrating.

Outside of that, hiss can be cause by ground fault issues. It sounds like you've tried moving the ground. Are your power wires and RCA cables run on the same side of the Jeep? An old rule of thumb is to not run the power and RCA wires near each other. I still do that today.

Also, can you confirm that you're running power straight from the battery? You'll need a direct, fused connection to the battery and a clean remote wire.

I'll stop here, but let me know if the above doesn't work, and we'll see what else we can troubleshoot. - Good luck
 

ToPar9

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Update : can't figure out the HISS problem on the stereo
tried switching the RCA , new ground , new remote , when i adjust the Gain + Freq Hiss goes almost away but still there been trying all day.. and now debating to remove all the system or find the awnser around...

*Pac unit can be defected ?
*need to add Resistor ?

if any one had this kind problems can please chime in...

thank you
Sound familiar??
Found this on Crutchfield.
Jeep Wrangler JL Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s) upload_2020-4-4_21-24-31
 

Biconia

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Missed your post earlier, sorry about that! If you've resolved your issue, just skip this...

Try unplugging the RCA from the amp, with everything else connected. Does it still hiss? If so, the amp's gain could be set too high, or the amp could have a bad pot switch (one of the rotating knobs). If you hear static when you turn the gain knob, turn off the Jeep, rotate the gain knob all the way up, then all the way down, and repeat that like 20-30 times. Sometimes the gain controls corrode a bit, and if they aren't too bad, that can help it.

If you unplug the RCA's from the Amp and the Hiss does go away, there's definitely something going on with the PAC. It could be that something went wrong in the calibration process. Try resetting it and re-calibrating.

Outside of that, hiss can be cause by ground fault issues. It sounds like you've tried moving the ground. Are your power wires and RCA cables run on the same side of the Jeep? An old rule of thumb is to not run the power and RCA wires near each other. I still do that today.

Also, can you confirm that you're running power straight from the battery? You'll need a direct, fused connection to the battery and a clean remote wire.

I'll stop here, but let me know if the above doesn't work, and we'll see what else we can troubleshoot. - Good luck
hey thanks for Chime

when RCA's are unplugged hiss is gone 100% silence there

i did try new grounding with 4 gauge and 0 gauge there is still HISS

power wires , RCA wires are not running same side :)

power running from Battery > Fuse > Capacitor > 2 amps

mine is 7" stereo but i upgraded to 8.4" recently is this will cause the problem ? since the output are not same ?

also i ordered some 47ohm 5w ceramic resistors just incase to try out

hope i can resolve it asap and enjoy the new system..
 
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Sting_NC_USA

Sting_NC_USA

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hey thanks for Chime

when RCA's are unplugged hiss is gone 100% silence there

i did try new grounding with 4 gauge and 0 gauge there is still HISS

power wires , RCA wires are not running same side :)

power running from Battery > Fuse > Capacitor > 2 amps

mine is 7" stereo but i upgraded to 8.4" recently is this will cause the problem ? since the output are not same ?

also i ordered some 47ohm 5w ceramic resistors just incase to try out

hope i can resolve it asap and enjoy the new system..

The radio change is interesting. How are your PAC's dip switches set? It has a setting for the amplified system, and one for the non-amplified. I'd recommend validating the switches are correct. Also, if you haven't done so already, plug a laptop up to the PAC and ensure the firmware is updated, and also try turning the EQ in the PAC off. Outside of that, you may benefit by going the original (old-school) route with the resistors. If you do have to do this, all of the wiring schematics are in the first post.
 

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Biconia

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The radio change is interesting. How are your PAC's dip switches set? It has a setting for the amplified system, and one for the non-amplified. I'd recommend validating the switches are correct. Also, if you haven't done so already, plug a laptop up to the PAC and ensure the firmware is updated, and also try turning the EQ in the PAC off. Outside of that, you may benefit by going the original (old-school) route with the resistors. If you do have to do this, all of the wiring schematics are in the first post.
PAC dip switch is set to 4ON for non amplified system
ill go down with laptop and turn the EQ off i remember the firmware was up to date ill make sure on that
in worst case ill go to Old-School route when my resistors arrive and i don't resolve this by that time...

thanks again for all your recommendations !
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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PAC dip switch is set to 4ON for non amplified system
ill go down with laptop and turn the EQ off i remember the firmware was up to date ill make sure on that
in worst case ill go to Old-School route when my resistors arrive and i don't resolve this by that time...

thanks again for all your recommendations !
Was the 8.4 configured for the Alpine System?

If so, shouldn't the dip switch be set for an amplified system? Gain staging issues plague car audio systems. Gain staging issues arise when the incoming signal isn't powerful enough, or possibly too powerful. I think I'm remembering this correctly!? Either way, if the 8.4 is intended to be part of an amplified system, the PAC would be looking for a different signal than the amplified signal coming out of the non-Alpine. The Alpine sends a low level signal to an external amp. The non-Alpine's amp is built into the system. Can't say for sure, but it may be worth checking into.
 

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Was the 8.4 configured for the Alpine System?

If so, shouldn't the dip switch be set for an amplified system? Gain staging issue plague car audio systems. Gain staging issues arise when the incoming signal isn't powerful enough, or possibly too powerful. I think I'm remembering this correctly!? Either way, if the 8.4 is intended to be part of an amplified system, the PAC would be looking for a different signal than the amplified signal coming out of the non-Alpine. The Alpine sends a low level signal to an external amp. The non-Alpine's amp is built into the system. Can't say for sure, but it may be worth checking into.
oh man never guessed that way.... since i have no idea what they came from 8.4" unit...
ill try to reset the PAC and set to amplified unit as well
ill update asap going down with my laptop
 

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sorry deleted the post
1st try with turning the EQ from pac unit fail
firmware was up to date but still updated again
now for switch mode finger crossed
 

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it does the same thing... well i guess my only options are get another PAC or go with resistor mode
for old school mode do i need different harness and LC7i ?

thanks again
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