48 volt etorque battery

[Terrymo]

Yea Bro, I do wheel! You ever try it?

Yes I see, that was a joke for @Zandcwhite since he’s been wheeling for years. If I meant you, I would have replied to one of your posts, or added @Dirt1. No dick measuring contest intended. My posts areI generally smartassery. But carry on.

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[Dirt1]

Yes I see, that was a joke for @Zandcwhite since he’s been wheeling for years. If I meant you, I would have replied to one of your posts, or added @Dirt1. No dick measuring contest intended. My posts areI generally smartassery. But carry on.

Gotcha

 

[Zandcwhite]

Obviously, you’ve never been underneath a 2door wrangler with a 48 V battery. My driveshaft is literally 1 inch away from the battery and the gas tank at full flex. Coil overs and a stretch is in her future.

So you are moving the tank too? The 2 dr might be different, but on the 4 dr the driveshaft gets closer to it than the battery? Either way, a stretch should create more clearance not less. A triangulated 4 link would be best case scenario as it does a much better job of keeping the axle centered throughout travel than the track bar setup ever could. It would be a whole bunch of work, with computer implications if you're deleting it, but anything is possible.

 

[Pape]

Personally I would replace the 48V battery by some super cap. If the DC to DC does not require cooling pretty sure you can get rid of the cooling system in that setup.

 

[Dirt1]

So you are moving the tank too? The 2 dr might be different, but on the 4 dr the driveshaft gets closer to it than the battery? Either way, a stretch should create more clearance not less. A triangulated 4 link would be best case scenario as it does a much better job of keeping the axle centered throughout travel than the track bar setup ever could. It would be a whole bunch of work, with computer implications if you're deleting it, but anything is possible.

I assume that the triangulated four link would still interfere with the gas tank and battery. And no, I’m not 100% sure on anything lol. I will be relocating the gas tank with a Moto built fuel cell.

 

[GavinH]

I’ve looked into this because I really wanted to double triangulate the rear and 3 link the front w/ trackbar. Mainly for binding but also wanted a square flat belly skid. Unfortunately the rear cannot be 4 linked due to battery and gas tank, the frame side mounts go right where both of these are currently located. Gas tank being way easier to relocate where muffler is. Only etorque solution I’ve found is the Genright chassis but is only offered for the 4 door and cost 30k.

This has led me to consider trading in my Jeep for a non etorque or just sticking with this build and using the RK 3 link rear. Likely what I’ll be sticking with since the rear 3 link will eliminate the binding we currently experience with 5 links. My only concern is you’re betting all upper support on a single link vs 2 with the 4 link but ive seen this kit tested and pushed hard so I think it’s proven Itself.

To due the battery essentially being our alternator I believe you’d need an entire new engine to truly delete the etorque. Moving it to a different location is one thing but I’ve wondered if a Hemi swap could be done to get rid of it that way. Two birds with one stone.

 

[Dirt1]

I’ve looked into this because I really wanted to double triangulate the rear and 3 link the front w/ trackbar. Mainly for binding but also wanted a square flat belly skid. Unfortunately the rear cannot be 4 linked due to battery and gas tank, the frame side mounts go right where both of these are currently located. Gas tank being way easier to relocate where muffler is. Only etorque solution I’ve found is the Genright chassis but is only offered for the 4 door and cost 30k.

This has led me to consider trading in my Jeep for a non etorque or just sticking with this build and using the RK 3 link rear. Likely what I’ll be sticking with since the rear 3 link will eliminate the binding we currently experience with 5 links. My only concern is you’re betting all upper support on a single link vs 2 with the 4 link but ive seen this kit tested and pushed hard so I think it’s proven Itself.

To due the battery essentially being our alternator I believe you’d need an entire new engine to truly delete the etorque. Moving it to a different location is one thing but I’ve wondered if a Hemi swap could be done to get rid of it that way. Two birds with one stone.

The hemi swap would probably would be the best option.

 

[Xtina]

If you delete it don't forget to install a alternator

 

[Dirt1]

If you delete it don't forget to install a alternator

After further research, I believe that deleting it is not possible without a swap as of now, but I do believe if I get rid of the fuel tank and add a fuel cell that I can relocate the battery towards the front of the area that the fuel tank was in. If that makes sense.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

Because I actually wheel my Jeep and to farther build it the stupid battery need to be gone.

The only thing I have seen it to be in the way of is an underbelly ARB air tank mount. That said, it was easier for me to find a new location for my air tank than it was a new location for the battery. With the price of Jeeps these days, it would probably be cheaper to buy a second Wrangler without the ET than do everything required to remove it.

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