2021 JLURD Death Wobble?

[gek]

I had mine replaced at just under 20k miles, and since I'm now hyper focused on it, see it returning and had it replaced at 27k miles. I'll likely just upgrade my damper and be done with it. I believe the lower the tire pressure and more aggressive the tires, the quicker it will appear. I have a stock 392 with the original all terrains, rotated at every oil change, and here I am again. Sad they don't issue an updated damper and be done with it before someone starts a class.

Don't have time to get it dropped off every 10k miles when it starts acting up!
Good luck to you!

Fix the underlying problem (ball joints, trackbar bushings, steering components) and you don't have to worry about the damper. I have stock dampers on a 2018 with almost 80k miles and on a 2021 with 26k miles. Both wheeled. One damper is even slightly dented.

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[txj2go]

Fix the underlying problem (ball joints, trackbar bushings, steering components) and you don't have to worry about the damper

The general consensus was that the damper is a bandaid and if you fix the cause of the problem then you don't need the bandaid. I've started to think that if the bandaid works, even temporarily, maybe that is a better solution for some people than doing all the work to fix the real problem. YMMV of course. I wonder if there are situations where the parts are worn enough that the stabilizer doesn't work.

 

[gek]

The general consensus was that the damper is a bandaid and if you fix the cause of the problem then you don't need the bandaid. I've started to think that if the bandaid works, even temporarily, maybe that is a better solution for some people than doing all the work to fix the real problem. YMMV of course. I wonder if there are situations where the parts are worn enough that the stabilizer doesn't work.

What is likely happening is that the warn parts are also wearing out the stabilizer or overcoming it's ability to do it's job. The issue with doing the bandaid instead of the actual fix is that the actual problem will not heal itself and will likely only get worse over time. It can be used as a stopgap until the problem is actually fixed though.

The damper is a "nice to have" it removes harshness and vibration in the steering. Solid front axle vehicles do not have to have it, but there is a reason we all keep them on, they work. I could see how putting on a higher grade one might even help to minimize additional wear on some components, but the original problem is still there, and once that new damper starts to wear out it will rear it's head again and possibly end up being worse.

There are definitely some places on the Jeep I would be all for a stopgap as a solution, but when it comes to possible safety issues, like steering, it is well worth doing things the correct way over the easier way. I couldn't forgive myself if I had a steering malfunction and it causes an accident that harms someone due to my negligence and cutting corners when I could have spent a bit more time and effort and prevented it.

 

[utjmac]

Fix the underlying problem (ball joints, trackbar bushings, steering components) and you don't have to worry about the damper. I have stock dampers on a 2018 with almost 80k miles and on a 2021 with 26k miles. Both wheeled. One damper is even slightly dented.

Not sure what to tell you, but if I've got bad steering components, they've been bad from the factory and I've inspected my steering, and I don't have bad joints. I've built, worked and wheeled a lot of solid axle vehicles, from wide swapped CJs to 1 ton trucks. The last jeep I had prior to this was a TJ that I got to 175k miles and traded it. Never had an issue with wobble on any of them.

I got a rental JL after my Ram 2500 had to get repaired for work, and it was my first exposure to the JL. It only had 18k miles on it, and when I say the death wobble was bad, when it started, it almost sent me off the road. I told the rental place and they didn't bat an eye. I had always feared that would crop up in my 392, and have been very sensitive to observing it. When I got it replaced the first time, it was night and day. Drove stable even with high tire pressures, better than when I got it new. 7k miles later, it wasn't consistent, but it would do it once a week, start oscillating slightly. It wasn't terrible, but getting worse over time, so I asked them to swap it, which they did.

All components in a steering system have a wear cycle. Overtime, they will wear out and need to be replaced. The steering damper should be sized well enough, that it removes any natural oscillations that would rear their head as the collective wear on all the components add up. Lots of things in vehicle manufacturing are "band aids" to make it until proper service intervals.

When my damper was removed today, I was told it could be moved easily with no resistance. They are not holding up under normal use. There is air getting past the seals, which is likely causing bubbles and reducing effectiveness of the damper. When they get changed out, they are defective. Our type of steering system needs a damper in place to reduce oscillations, brand new joints or not. I agree some use it as a band aid, but the frequency of replacement on new and old Jeeps is indicative of another issue. I'm glad you haven't had any issues with yours. My issues were infrequent, but even 1 time is to much if my daughter or wife is driving it and fearful of them being able to control it.

Good luck to us all!

John

 

[gek]

Not sure what to tell you, but if I've got bad steering components, they've been bad from the factory and I've inspected my steering, and I don't have bad joints. I've built, worked and wheeled a lot of solid axle vehicles, from wide swapped CJs to 1 ton trucks. The last jeep I had prior to this was a TJ that I got to 175k miles and traded it. Never had an issue with wobble on any of them.

I got a rental JL after my Ram 2500 had to get repaired for work, and it was my first exposure to the JL. It only had 18k miles on it, and when I say the death wobble was bad, when it started, it almost sent me off the road. I told the rental place and they didn't bat an eye. I had always feared that would crop up in my 392, and have been very sensitive to observing it. When I got it replaced the first time, it was night and day. Drove stable even with high tire pressures, better than when I got it new. 7k miles later, it wasn't consistent, but it would do it once a week, start oscillating slightly. It wasn't terrible, but getting worse over time, so I asked them to swap it, which they did.

All components in a steering system have a wear cycle. Overtime, they will wear out and need to be replaced. The steering damper should be sized well enough, that it removes any natural oscillations that would rear their head as the collective wear on all the components add up. Lots of things in vehicle manufacturing are "band aids" to make it until proper service intervals.

When my damper was removed today, I was told it could be moved easily with no resistance. They are not holding up under normal use. There is air getting past the seals, which is likely causing bubbles and reducing effectiveness of the damper. When they get changed out, they are defective. Our type of steering system needs a damper in place to reduce oscillations, brand new joints or not. I agree some use it as a band aid, but the frequency of replacement on new and old Jeeps is indicative of another issue. I'm glad you haven't had any issues with yours. My issues were infrequent, but even 1 time is to much if my daughter or wife is driving it and fearful of them being able to control it.

Good luck to us all!

John

I fully agree that the stock damper is cheap and inadequate. My issue is replacing it being touted as the end all be all fix. The weird thing about the JL is that the cheap bushings and ball joints can start to fail and cause DW but not show any signs of failure at a stand still. I removed my plastic ball joints at 16k miles and, while they felt very worn, they showed no signs of it while installed. They are so crap they don't even show failure signs properly. Not to mention the flex in frame side track bar mount and how easily that bolt hole wallows out.
Those reasons are why upgraded ball joints and track bar plus possibly a track bar brace are generally suggestions for those in the "fix it right" camp. I know it sucks doing ball joints, but it is well worth it in my opinion. I have not regretting doing it when I re-geared, yet another issue with the JL, rear end gear doesn't go great with the manual transmission gearing. My major mods have been fixing Jeeps f' ups. Clutch, gears, bjs, and steering.

 

[utjmac]

I fully agree that the stock damper is cheap and inadequate. My issue is replacing it being touted as the end all be all fix. The weird thing about the JL is that the cheap bushings and ball joints can start to fail and cause DW but not show any signs of failure at a stand still. I removed my plastic ball joints at 16k miles and, while they felt very worn, they showed no signs of it while installed. They are so crap they don't even show failure signs properly. Not to mention the flex in frame side track bar mount and how easily that bolt hole wallows out.
Those reasons are why upgraded ball joints and track bar plus possibly a track bar brace are generally suggestions for those in the "fix it right" camp. I know it sucks doing ball joints, but it is well worth it in my opinion. I have not regretting doing it when I re-geared, yet another issue with the JL, rear end gear doesn't go great with the manual transmission gearing. My major mods have been fixing Jeeps f' ups. Clutch, gears, bjs, and steering.

I do agree with you. There can certainly be bracing and upgraded materials to improve durability and make the steering system more rigid. I misinterpreted your meaning that saying everyone was replacing dampers because they were neglecting their well worn steering system.

Now that I’m past 3 years warranty, (I still have extended) I’m going to start modifying the Jeep a bit more and upgrading with braces replacement steering and joints when time. I appreciate the helpful discussion!

John

 

[gek]

I do agree with you. There can certainly be bracing and upgraded materials to improve durability and make the steering system more rigid. I misinterpreted your meaning that saying everyone was replacing dampers because they were neglecting their well worn steering system.

Now that I’m past 3 years warranty, (I still have extended) I’m going to start modifying the Jeep a bit more and upgrading with braces replacement steering and joints when time. I appreciate the helpful discussion!

John

It sucks to do, but imo the quicker you can get those ball joints swapped the better. The consensus seems to be the dynatrac or teraflex but metalcloak has some now also that I think came out early this year.

 

[RubiBlueJLU]

Guess I’ll jump in on this thread.
2021 JLURD. Just over 72,000 miles.
Drove like dream, until a week ago. Started noticing a slight shimmy on harder bumps. Nothing major, just a steering wheel shimmy.
Was driving Wednesday, 65mph on I-70 near home. Went over a bump I’ve gone over 1000 times and got a case of “holy crap wobble”. It was a full blow wobble, but I’ve had death wobble before in a 2001 TJ, so I know that feeling. A quick slow down and it stopped, so I drove on. I got more slight wobbles at lower speeds (55-60) on side roads and blacktops.
I went out today and checked it out:
Front tires up on rollers. Did about 2 dozen videos as I concentrated on all the “spots” and turned the wheels side to side. Engine off and engine on. No visible movement or slippage anywhere. Dampener (stock) removed and checked. Hard, but smooth movement for the full stroke. Reluctantly, I took advice from here and check my lower ball joints. Well, both got about an extra 2-slot turn, with effort.
Off for a test ride, and still the same wobble at 55-60 on blacktop. Back home. Scratching my head.
Need to check/inflate tires. Pump is charging, and being a pain! Ugh! Guess a tire rotation is happening, too.

 

[zouch]

well,.. after upgrading all the steering stuff to prep for bigger, heavier tires/wheels (37s on beadlocks), i've put quite a few miles on my JLUWD with no steering stabilizer whatsoever. they're just not necessary if everything is solid and tight.

track bar and brace were early on the list, but replaced along with adjustable Lower Control Arms as part of the necessary corrections after a little lift.
tie rod and drag link were done in prep for tire increase.
ball joints were done shortly thereafter, and were obviously crap after even very moderate mileage.
doing most of these parts one at a time it was interesting to see the differences as i went along, and most of the differences weren't significant along the way. the one big surprise came when i changed the Upper Control Arms late in the game 'just because' to match the LCAs, and was startled by how obvious it was how much better the more solid UCAs helped keep the suspension on its proper path while cycling. clearly, it all counts.

while i have updated my Steering Stabilizer, it was initially to get the stock one up and out of harms way. i picked an adjustable thru-shaft version and have it set to very light resistance out of personal preference and because there really doesn't seem to be any reason to have it any tighter.

Our type of steering system needs a damper in place to reduce oscillations, brand new joints or not.

 

[RubiBlueJLU]

So, I did a 220 mile round trip yesterday, 11/30/24. First 80 miles were in 4WH, driving on snow packed highways and blacktops. (Winter storm) No issues. Next 30 miles in 2WH on plowed, semi clean highway. Again, no issues.
Return trip was all cleared roads. No issues until doing 70 in the highway. Couple of bridge approaches caused slight wobble, bit not too bad.
This morning I went out today and, with my wife, and did another dry steer test.
Found these issue this time.
The “drag link outer socket” at the pitman arm has slight side to side play. Almost missed it! (unlike last time, when I did).
Looks like I get to replace it.

 

[zouch]

congrats. finding the issue is the first step to being able to fix it.

sounds like you're on your way. good luck!

So, I did a 220 mile round trip yesterday, 11/30/24. First 80 miles were in 4WH, driving on snow packed highways and blacktops. (Winter storm) No issues. Next 30 miles in 2WH on plowed, semi clean highway. Again, no issues.
Return trip was all cleared roads. No issues until doing 70 in the highway. Couple of bridge approaches caused slight wobble, bit not too bad.
This morning I went out today and, with my wife, and did another dry steer test.
Found these issue this time.
The “drag link outer socket” at the pitman arm has slight side to side play. Almost missed it! (unlike last time, when I did).
Looks like I get to replace it.

 

[RubiBlueJLU]

Late follow-up.
So, link end replaced. Didn’t even Jack the Jeep up. Aligned the steering wheel.
Just did a 400 mile round trip with no issues. No wobble, no shimmy.
All good.

 

[RicRecon]

Good to hear. I’ve developed a slight DW on my JT similar to what you described and I plan to take a look soon.

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