2018 JLUR Codes thrown when battery goes dead

[vincentvega]

That's what I would do to test a fuse. There are also several posts on here about people getting the pull over engine is shutting down message, without much follow up for solutions. So I hope your problem gets resolved without going down that rabbit hole.

@nullpointer You are the man!

I pulled the fuse array and N3 was blown. Swapped N3 to N4 and she fired right up and runs like a champ. The CEL was on for the first few starts but that cleared up.

I ordered a new array (Part # 68368854AA with the 100A fan fuse as I have the tow package) and I’ll keep a spare in the glovebox.

Thank you again. If you ever find yourself on Long Island I owe you a few rounds.

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[NULL POINTER]

@nullpointer You are the man!

I pulled the fuse array and N3 was blown. Swapped N3 to N4 and she fired right up and runs like a champ. The CEL was on for the first few starts but that cleared up.

I ordered a new array (Part # 68368854AA with the 100A fan fuse as I have the tow package) and I’ll keep a spare in the glovebox.

Thank you again. If you ever find yourself on Long Island I owe you a few rounds.

Glad it worked out. I keep a spare fuse array in my glovebox. Keep an eye on everything once you get it all fixed up. Some of these electrical gremlins can come back.

 

[vincentvega]

Glad it worked out. I keep a spare fuse array in my glovebox. Keep an eye on everything once you get it all fixed up. Some of these electrical gremlins can come back.

So far so good. I drove it to work this morning with some "voltage anxiety". From what I read the voltage readings I get from the EVIC ranging from 12.7v to 14.2v is apparently normal.

My theory on this whole event is that the Aux battery died which left me stranded. Before I put the new main battery in I was getting normal lights and dash but just a clicking at the starter when I tried to start. Once I put the new main in I got the haywire dash and just about every warning she could give. I feel like I must have grounded the main positive cable during the main battery swap blowing the N3 fuse. I only learned that the main positive is still energized by the Aux battery after the fact.

I learned:

1) Isolate the two ground lines on the main battery terminals and/or cover the main positive line with a glove when disconnecting the battery.

2) Carry a spare Fuse Array.

3) Replace the Aux battery every 3 years or eliminate it completely.

Lastly, I found that the Aux battery is fairly easy to replace from the bottom. I just removed the two bottom rear fender liner clips (the ones that face forward inside the wheel well on the bottom rear edge of the liner), removed the 3 screws and one clip inside the well and folded the whole liner down and out of the way. I used a bungee cord to hold the liner there. About a 20 minute job this way.

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