10 gauge wiring

[Lucky7Wrangler]

Instead of running sets of wires for a GRMS 50W radio, 5w cb-radio, dashcam, and GPS charger for a total of 25amps; would 10 gauge be sufficient to run from the battery into the passenger compartment wired to a bus bar? Both radios and the dashcam would be the only constant on, vehicle running, the GPS power only on long road trips, and dashcam on with vehicle off when not parked in my driveway or at work. If this was fine to run, would I get any alternator whine or anything of the sort?

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[CloakedWillys]

The CB would be the most likely of the group to get a whine. GMRS is pretty good about not having issues.

 

[Mguy]

Instead of running sets of wires for a GRMS 50W radio, 5w cb-radio, dashcam, and GPS charger for a total of 25amps; would 10 gauge be sufficient to run from the battery into the passenger compartment wired to a bus bar? Both radios and the dashcam would be the only constant on, vehicle running, the GPS power only on long road trips, and dashcam on with vehicle off when not parked in my driveway or at work. If this was fine to run, would I get any alternator whine or anything of the sort?

Here's an ampacity chart from a reputable safety standards organization. There will be some voltage drop, and there are charts for wire size, but it is not likely such will be a safety or performance issue.

 

[grimmjeeper]

10GA should be good. Get a high amp fuse holder or circuit breaker at the battery end. I find that it's easy to tuck a small fuse block inside. It's cleaner than a bus bar and inline fuses. I've used this one several times.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...18&sprefix=blue+sea+fuse+block,aps,191&sr=8-3

If you need more, they make bigger ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...==&sprefix=blue+sea+fuse+block,aps,191&sr=8-1

 

[THAW]

I second the 4-gang fuse block in the interior instead of a busbar. If you ever have a fuse blow, it'll be much easier to diagnose the issue, and it's less likely all devices lose power at once. Plus, it's better for protecting any small-gauge device wiring. You can use a busbar for the grounds if it makes sense for the wire routes.

I run a 4-gang in the passenger footwell for the ACC wire that's part of the factory AUX Switches, and another on a fused, dedicated, auxiliary B+ wire to the rear passenger wheel well.

 

[Lucky7Wrangler]

10GA should be good. Get a high amp fuse holder or circuit breaker at the battery end. I find that it's easy to tuck a small fuse block inside. It's cleaner than a bus bar and inline fuses. I've used this one several times.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Common/dp/B01BV1MS1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_pp?crid=2RVQD70HFU4EY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.LrI2NDkuCFSemhPVjvR1MOMH8zPDYSKPv1eNr58Vc7VOGGIT4gp-T80WwiHgRwdNV8l17LveAA-DbyK8xUo32KkQ9jwAAsVh2Vgk51G-Gu7yXMeigRaMC4bnW7kOycp8kqWqIRmCeh1ACPB6MtrxNLopkW7sj5VWbh2MHpoTHsJkiCP9ElxAmtGDk0fIqN43IJ0LM3YOba60_7lEB4dZxA.jY0WQnB2_pxMxprwSgfGlNhGk8JMazKTDDUcrYEeYYM&dib_tag=se&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block&qid=1765480718&sprefix=blue+sea+fuse+block,aps,191&sr=8-3

If you need more, they make bigger ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Common/dp/B01BV1MTF0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_pp_mod_primary_new?crid=2RVQD70HFU4EY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.LrI2NDkuCFSemhPVjvR1MOMH8zPDYSKPv1eNr58Vc7VOGGIT4gp-T80WwiHgRwdNV8l17LveAA-DbyK8xUo32KkQ9jwAAsVh2Vgk51G-Gu7yXMeigRaMC4bnW7kOycp8kqWqIRmCeh1ACPB6MtrxNLopkW7sj5VWbh2MHpoTHsJkiCP9ElxAmtGDk0fIqN43IJ0LM3YOba60_7lEB4dZxA.jY0WQnB2_pxMxprwSgfGlNhGk8JMazKTDDUcrYEeYYM&dib_tag=se&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block&qid=1765480718&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=blue+sea+fuse+block,aps,191&sr=8-1

The fuse holder is an excellent idea. Based on the diagram for the negative, it shows the negative cable connected to a bus bar. Does another wire have to go to a chassis ground as well or is the negative for the battery sufficient for the ground wire?

 

[KCSgtMaj]

You only want to pull 80% of the max the wire is rated for. So 10 gauge = 30 amps intermittently , 24 amps continuous. Protect with 30 amp fuse.

 

[grimmjeeper]

The fuse holder is an excellent idea. Based on the diagram for the negative, it shows the negative cable connected to a bus bar. Does another wire have to go to a chassis ground as well or is the negative for the battery sufficient for the ground wire?

I typically just find a convenient bolt or nut on the body and attach my ground to it. But if you have a bus for your grounds, that can work too.

 

[Lucky7Wrangler]

I typically just find a convenient bolt or nut on the body and attach my ground to it. But if you have a bus for your grounds, that can work too.

Sorry, I am an dummy when it comes to electronics. If I have a 10 gauge wire coming from the neg battery terminal to the bus and all my grounds attached to the bus it will work and be okay like that? The gmrs and cb have to atleast be hooked to the battery.

 

[grimmjeeper]

Sorry, I am an dummy when it comes to electronics. If I have a 10 gauge wire coming from the neg battery terminal to the bus and all my grounds attached to the bus it will work and be okay like that? The gmrs and cb have to atleast be hooked to the battery.

That will work. Cars in general are "negative ground" setups. The body (and the frame and engine block) is tied to the negative terminal on the battery. So attaching your ground wire to the body works as well as a direct wire to the battery.

All of the positive wires need to be individually run.

It's also why you want a fuse near the battery. If you accidentally cut the insulation on any of the wires and it touches bare metal somewhere, you can end up with an electrical fire. A fuse will blow before that happens and keep you safe.

Also, you can run more than 30A through a 10 gauge wire. At least for the short runs in a vehicle.

 

[Malpaso]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/permanent-battery-pigtail.160967/#post-3309000

 

[au176]

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I have some DC electrical projects coming up on my motorhome, and this is some great info for me to plan and use!

 

[Lucky7Wrangler]

10GA should be good. Get a high amp fuse holder or circuit breaker at the battery end. I find that it's easy to tuck a small fuse block inside. It's cleaner than a bus bar and inline fuses. I've used this one several times.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Common/dp/B01BV1MS1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_pp?crid=2RVQD70HFU4EY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.LrI2NDkuCFSemhPVjvR1MOMH8zPDYSKPv1eNr58Vc7VOGGIT4gp-T80WwiHgRwdNV8l17LveAA-DbyK8xUo32KkQ9jwAAsVh2Vgk51G-Gu7yXMeigRaMC4bnW7kOycp8kqWqIRmCeh1ACPB6MtrxNLopkW7sj5VWbh2MHpoTHsJkiCP9ElxAmtGDk0fIqN43IJ0LM3YOba60_7lEB4dZxA.jY0WQnB2_pxMxprwSgfGlNhGk8JMazKTDDUcrYEeYYM&dib_tag=se&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block&qid=1765480718&sprefix=blue+sea+fuse+block,aps,191&sr=8-3

If you need more, they make bigger ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Common/dp/B01BV1MTF0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_pp_mod_primary_new?crid=2RVQD70HFU4EY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.LrI2NDkuCFSemhPVjvR1MOMH8zPDYSKPv1eNr58Vc7VOGGIT4gp-T80WwiHgRwdNV8l17LveAA-DbyK8xUo32KkQ9jwAAsVh2Vgk51G-Gu7yXMeigRaMC4bnW7kOycp8kqWqIRmCeh1ACPB6MtrxNLopkW7sj5VWbh2MHpoTHsJkiCP9ElxAmtGDk0fIqN43IJ0LM3YOba60_7lEB4dZxA.jY0WQnB2_pxMxprwSgfGlNhGk8JMazKTDDUcrYEeYYM&dib_tag=se&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block&qid=1765480718&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=blue+sea+fuse+block,aps,191&sr=8-1

Voltage wise, would the 4-block holder, which indicates 32v, be able to handle all the voltage of the devices I listed running at the same time? My GMRS radio is a Midland MXT575, Uniden CMX760 cb, Cobra SC400d dashcam, Garmin Tread Base GPS. The GPS is only used on long road trips where I don't know where I'm going.

 

[grimmjeeper]

Voltage wise, would the 4-block holder, which indicates 32v, be able to handle all the voltage of the devices I listed running at the same time? My GMRS radio is a Midland MXT575, Uniden CMX760 cb, Cobra SC400d dashcam, Garmin Tread Base GPS. The GPS is only used on long road trips where I don't know where I'm going.

They all run at around 13.8V more or less, given that it's in a vehicle. The key thing to pay attention to is amperage.

Think of it like a water hose. The voltage is the pressure of the water. Amperage is how much water is flowing through the hose. And the amperage is what matters.

I run a Midland 575 (50W) GMRS, a 50W ham radio, and an ARB fridge on mine. Holds up fine. They pull a little under 20 amps each at full load.

Those Blue Sea fuse blocks can handle 100A without breaking a sweat.

 

[Lucky7Wrangler]

They all run at around 13.8V more or less, given that it's in a vehicle. The key thing to pay attention to is amperage.

Think of it like a water hose. The voltage is the pressure of the water. Amperage is how much water is flowing through the hose. And the amperage is what matters.

I run a Midland 575 (50W) GMRS, a 50W ham radio, and an ARB fridge on mine. Holds up fine. They pull a little under 20 amps each at full load.

Those Blue Sea fuse blocks can handle 100A without breaking a sweat.

So, no matter the number of devices, they all are being powered from a 13.8v source, it's their amperage to be properly fused?

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