2025 WIllys 3.6 AT build

[bmpcamry09]

Hot dam, sweet! Thanks for the reply, purchased MPVI4 and 8 universal credits, waiting for arrival. Then I'll pull my .HPT file, use that and VIN at HPTuners and send my PCM in, will be contacting you for tuning!

Sounds good! You actually don’t even have to send them your .hpt file or anything, your good to send the PCM any time!

That’s just for people getting cloned or duplicate PCMs. Their website doesn’t clarify enough on that end unfortunately

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[WillysMeow]

Got kinda warm and sunny here today...dang stickiest double-sided tape I've ever tried to remove! Where ma heat gun and then some WD40?

Installed Clayton rear lower shock mount skids, very nice, high and tight! Actually had to tap them on with a rubber mallet, as it should be! Then installed Artec aluminum engine/tranny skidplate, very nice quality piece that again fits up very high and tight!

 

[WillysMeow]

Last weekend ran part of the Rubicon Trail from Wentworth Springs to Ellis Creek and then back out via Gate Keeper (about 17 miles)...it has changed a lot since 16-17 years ago! We removed the Freedom panels and stored them in the Jeep bag which works great and straps to the backside of the rear seat. They stayed put and protected. BTW, Jeep did NOT include the black rubber/plastic ACC cover for folding down the windshield.

Started building my trail tool kit before this trip, been searching for exactly what socket/wrench sizes are included in the Mopar kit, not much luck. Think I'll go look at the torque specs thread and get them there as I want a good kit but not adding tons of junk I won't need. Tools get really heavy quickly.

Unbolted and zip-tied up the front swaybar. Willys did amazingly well, did bypass one steep uphill section about 200 yards long of nasty boulder strewn, large rock stair steps because we were just one Jeep and didn't want to spend the night there lol. Had to re-zip-tie one side swaybar end link back up and out of the way as the tires grabbed it and broke the the ziptie. Only locked rear axle once at Gate Keeper as two rock buggies were right behind us and we didn't want to hold them up, probably didn't need to though.

My old trusty tire gauge (from High School days) is malfunctioning, as we wanted 12-15psi and somehow ended up at 8-10 according to the TPMS! Tire squish over big rocks confirmed very low tire pressure. Time for new good quality low pressure tire gauge. Tires burped a few times here and there and wonder if they spun slightly on the stock wheels, got slight out of balance vibration at highway speed now. Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs did amazingly well, no grip or ride quality problems even in the wet and muddy sections. 255/85r17s were no problem in low range on the trail, transfer and axle gearing is ok for now, but ideally want to go 4:1 transfer case eventually.

Tires rubbed front inner fenders quite a bit and are starting to chew holes, rears not so bad but did rub. Considering fender gut using Metalcloak kit, 1" wheel spacers or new wheels.

Mopar Rubicon/Willys rockrails did their job and got plenty of scrapes and couple dents, long term these need replaced with something beefier and that has a little more poke out to protect the bottoms of the doors/body from side impacts on rocks. Several body mount brackets on outside of frame rails got the lower parts bent by rock impacts, going to trim these with a cut-off wheel and then a little black spray paint. Going to need some better rocker rails.

Plenty of skidplate scrapes and couple small dents, Clayton Jeep Wrangler Rear Bolt On Shock Bracket Control Arm Skids (2018+, JL) took some abuse like champs and never got hung up. Shocks did not bottom out even with front swaybar disconnected and large flex.

https://claytonoffroad.com/products...u8trD0E0lFJQum8_ilhQtzzys5V4V1ivbFAKybnew4G0f

I'm now definitely considering a suspension lift, Willys is 1.125" less than the Rubicon that I measured at the dealer lot. I've been researching and MetalCloak is my top choice atm, with AEV and Mopar in consideration. Liking the GameChanger 2.5" or 3.5" lift (want enough lift without being too high and tippy)...so these kits should end up about 3.5 or 4.5" total lift due to Willys slightly lower than Rubicon. Not sure what shocks, maybe Bilstein 5160 or 8100. MC Rocksport Long Travel Red Shocks are 17.70-30.00" extended. Can front remote reservoir shocks clamp the reservoir onto the shock body like the rears do, or will that cause rubbage problems? Seems when shock extended travel hits about 30" then some peeps are getting vibrations and need a new front driveshaft, castor change, etc...which I'd rather avoid due to no FAD and possible driveline vibrations.

Thinking I'll do a front panhard frame mount reinforcemnt, stock electric power steering pump is lacking when bound up in the rocks.

MetalCloak rear bumper did fantastic, took several hard hits and only paint and scrapes. Muffler outlet did not fair as well, it got almost completely squashed flat. Engine still ran fine, but I used my cordless sawzall and cut it off. I'll run the stock muffler for a bit, but might eliminate the stock muffler or replace it something smaller. I prefer to keep the exhaust fairly quiet. Also lightly smushed steering stabilizer at the tie-rod mounting end.

Always remember to bring a tire air up device! Even stopped at HF for zipties and couple other last minute toolbag additons...somehow did not buy even a cheapy $30 tire inflator. The only gas station back in there was closed for the night and the air required $2 in quarters....we only had two quarters LOL! Fortunately one of the employess came walkin by and gave us quarters change for $2!

 

[WillysMeow]

Rear springs out and everything loosened. Rear muffler outlet squashed flat and cut off on Rubicon trail. Got muffler delete pipe in garage waiting for time to install and test if it's annoyingly loud or not.

Front inner fenders and rears in the way of shock bolts, pissed me off getting a socket in there so trimmed the plastic inner liners front and rear...mo betta!
Front before trim:

Front after trimming:

Rear all done but final on the wheels/ground torquing of all fasteners:

Front done except for MetalCloak LCAs. Found my 13mm deep six point socket (lost during engine/tranny skidplate installation) in the driver side hole above the spring when I installed the bumpstop extensions lol.

As she sits:

MetalCloak front LCAs installed, pretty easy. Measured stock lowers at the listed 24" center to center, adjusted MetalCloaks to 24.5" and it looks pretty close (stock was at 0') but won't know for sure until I set it back on it's wheels on the ground.

 

[WillysMeow]

Lift installed, all torqued, test drove great, thanks to all who've made suggestions and answered questions!

Set front pinion angle at 0' same as was stock or very close. Used my old Craftsman angle finder dangle gauge before starting and then checked with Iphone angle finder when adjusting MetalCloak front LCAs.

I had problem with the AEV rear trackbar bracket where it kinda caved/bowed in as I tightened the bottom bolt. Emailed AEV, they asked for some pictures and then took great care of me, over-nighted a replacement bracket and hardware/bolt bag, thanks guys!

Gained some height, I measured from level flat driveway concrete to the line between outer fender parts. I'll measure from top of axle tube to bottom of upper spring cup lip later, it's HOT atm and I'm tired.

Left front 45" Right front 44 5/8"
Left rear 44 9/16" Right rear 44 5/16"

Front driver side gained about 4", passenger side 3 11/16"
Rear driver side gained 4", passenger side 4 1/16"

Yes I used the provided AEV 1/4" steel spring shims on the passenger side and test drove it before measuring finished height. Gas tank is about 3/4 full at measuring.

I wonder if part of the height difference is because front axle is definitely closer to the driver's side after lifting and therefore the spring is standing up straighter/more vertical?

Factory metric trackbar bolts are quite undersized and I measured the axle bracket bolt hole as 0.615" vertical and 0.620" horizontally! The rear axle bracket hole was similar and neither looked hammered out by loose bolts! Borrowed the 9/16"-18x3" yellow zinc finish SAE J429 hex cap screw from my un-used Clayton steering stabilizer relocation kit for the axle bracket hole. This bolt and couple grade 8 flat washers with the Clayton flagnut fit much better in the bracket and the trackbar, torqued to 150 ft/lbs. Didn't have a bigger better bolt for the frame end but torqued it to 130 ft/lbs, everything is much better and that occasional clunk over bumps appears to be gone!

During test drive my ABS light came on and then bit later stated to service that system! Carefully used Dremel to cut the front LCA brake line and ABS wire brackets off...had to kinda bend and twist around some to cut without damaging. Did I break the wire inside the insulation? Need to pull codes.

Those factory Jeep way too big bracket holes! Note the bolt is removed and trackbar end is resting on top of the bracket. Calipers are lined up with the hole. Looking at front frame trackbar reinforcement brackets, kinda liking the WFO Concepts bracket.
https://www.wfoconcepts.com/i-30506168-track-bar-brace-kit-for-jeep-jl-2024.html

MetalCloak front adjustable trackbar ordered and received, need to make time to install it and line up the steering wheel properly.

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