Tire Chains On a JLUR Suggestions, Comments

[farrell5000]

Hello all, this has probably been discussed but nothing jumped out at me when I did a search. I have a 2019 JLUR and I would like to get a set of tire chains for my rig. The manual says you can not run chains on a JLUR, this is pretty lame as you are required to carry chains seasonally in some regions. My assumption is you could safely run chains on the front tires if needed.

Questions 1, has anyone had any experience running chains on a JLUR?

Question 2, Can I get some recommendations for high-quality heavy-duty chains?

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[PepperE]

Hello all, this has probably been discussed but nothing jumped out at me when I did a search. I have a 2019 JLUR and I would like to get a set of tire chains for my rig. The manual says you can not run chains on a JLUR, this is pretty lame as you are required to carry chains seasonally in some regions. My assumption is you could safely run chains on the front tires if needed.

Questions 1, has anyone had any experience running chains on a JLUR?

Question 2, Can I get some recommendations for high-quality heavy-duty chains?

I have a 2020 JLUR and don’t see language in the manual stating I can’t use chains, “rear tires only”.

After seeing many having trouble on icy trails recently, I’m also looking at chains...

 

[Left Field]

Hi Farrell,

As you can see by my signature I've not yet jumped ship to a JL, but will share my experience with my Jeep ZJ (solid axles F & R), which has the same language in the owners manual. I carry and use chains on all 4 wheels when necessary. Some examples are in soft new snow with ice underneath, pulling a snowmobile trailer in deep snow, or in one case, pulling a car 4 miles out a road in deep new snow where it had been trapped by rapid snowfall.

The chains I use are true chains with the hardened V-bars on the crosslinks. I've used them as needed for many years with no problems, occasionally replacing cross links if I break one (using single donor chains found on the side of the mountain pass areas).

To ensure safe fit, I've checked tire clearances on all four wheels including lock-to-lock on the front. I use them only in conditions where there will be very little axle articulation. For the initial installation I dry-fit the chains carefully ensuring that they are the correct length, adding or removing links if needed. When using them I install, drive a 50 yards and re-tighten, then check again after driving a short distance. Any flailing links or looseness could cause a lot of damage in a hurry. A couple of bungee cords to help with the end link tie-off and to take up any residual slack.

You'll have to decide if this approach is suitable for your vehicle.

I've had luck with Peerless chains, but have also have found good chains on Craigslist.

Good Luck!
LF

 

[Brandon WL]

Hi Farrell,

As you can see by my signature I've not yet jumped ship to a JL, but will share my experience with my Jeep ZJ (solid axles F & R), which has the same language in the owners manual. I carry and use chains on all 4 wheels when necessary. Some examples are in soft new snow with ice underneath, pulling a snowmobile trailer in deep snow, or in one case, pulling a car 4 miles out a road in deep new snow where it had been trapped by rapid snowfall.

The chains I use are true chains with the hardened V-bars on the crosslinks. I've used them as needed for many years with no problems, occasionally replacing cross links if I break one (using single donor chains found on the side of the mountain pass areas).

To ensure safe fit, I've checked tire clearances on all four wheels including lock-to-lock on the front. I use them only in conditions where there will be very little axle articulation. For the initial installation I dry-fit the chains carefully ensuring that they are the correct length, adding or removing links if needed. When using them I install, drive a 50 yards and re-tighten, then check again after driving a short distance. Any flailing links or looseness could cause a lot of damage in a hurry. A couple of bungee cords to help with the end link tie-off and to take up any residual slack.

You'll have to decide if this approach is suitable for your vehicle.

I've had luck with Peerless chains, but have also have found good chains on Craigslist.

Good Luck!
LF

I measured the clearances on my inner rear tire. The smallest amount of clearance I have is about 1.3 inches to the lower control arms. Is that enough clearance for non Class "S" chains? I want more of an aggressive chain for possible mud.

 

[Left Field]

@Brandon WL The clearance differences between our JL's is interesting; my rear control arm clearances are significantly larger (running stock tires and wheels anyway), with about 2" on the upper arm and a little over 4" on the lower control arm.

I put a chain on and measured how much it protrudes:

What I've done with my chains to minimize risk of damage is to dry-fit them on the tire and cut off the links on the inside of the tire such that I connect with the very last link, meaning there are no loose extra links to flail. Then I do all my tightening & re-tightening on the outside of the tire, tying off any extra chain tail length with a bungee.

LF

 

[AcesandEights]

Peerless: https://peerlesschain.com/tire-chain-finder

LaClede: https://lacledechain.com/traction-finder/

I've used both. I think chains are over-rated. If you're driving on anything but off road, a good set of snow traction tires should get you where you need to go, and most of the time they shut the highways down before you need chains. The west coast typically allows 4x4 with snow tires in most situations.

In the state of Washington:

4WD/AWD and chains
4WD/AWD vehicles (under 10,000 pounds) do not need chains installed during "chains required" notices, but drivers still must carry chains with them in case conditions worsen and they're required to install chains during a "chains required on all vehicles" notice."

I still carry two sets (all four tires), but I've never needed them.

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