Installed an External Oil Cooler

[_olllllllo_]

This past week I completed installing an external oil cooler in my 2019 JLUR 3.6 with manual 6-speed. I previously installed the Dorman aluminum oil cooler housing before the OEM plastic one had a chance to fail. The Dorman resulted in higher engine oil temps due to heat soak from the new all-aluminum housing. I tow a 2800 off-roading trailer and I would see 263˚ oil temps when pulling up a 7% grade. I routinely saw temps of 253 ˚ when pulling on level ground at highway speeds (65 mph). Simply driving around in 100˚ heat in Southern Arizona I would routinely see my oil temp at 244˚+ with just the Jeep and no trailer. I had installed the Cold Case all-aluminum radiator and it helped with coolant temps and thought an external oil cooler would do the same with the oil temps.

I designed a bracket to hold a Derale 10000 series oil cooler that I mounted in front of the air conditioning condenser. I do not know if this would work for those with the 8-speed automatic as I believe the automatic transmission cooler would be in the way. I decided that due to the offset using the Derale mounting kit required designing the brackets to be to the side of the cooler and not in front or behind it due to the depth space limitation between the front grill and the condenser. I used the following items:
Baxter Performance MR-202-BK remote oil filter adapter
Derale series 10000 16-row oil cooler
Derale 50020 stacked plate mounting kit
Derale 25792 1/2" NPT fluid control thermostat
Derale 35709 Premium -10AN Side Ports Single Filter Mount, 3/4''-16 Filter Threads
Wix 51516XP spin-on oil filter
6.5 quarts Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Series synthetic engine oil
20 feet of RaceFlux Lightweight Nylon Braided Viton Hose for Fuel and Oil, -10AN
9 RaceFlux 90-degree double swivel seal hose end fittings, -10AN
1 150-degree double swivel seal hose end fitting, -10AN
DV8 engine bay compressor mount JL (sku 16198-1023) from Quadratec
1/4-20 grade 5 hardware

I drilled 4 holes in the engine bay compressor mount to mount the Derale thermostat. I used two of the existing holes to use two of the three mounting locations from the remote oil filter mount (the third hole would have been too close to the bracket edge). I used an angle grinder to cut each section of hose and installed one 90˚ fitting so that I could install it and run the hose to determine the routing and length. The bottom of the oil cooler lines up the with the lowest point of opening in the pre-2024 grill. I had to remove the drivers side horn to make room for the bracket on that side. It is a tight fit, but I have about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance between the back of the oil cooler and the front of the condenser.

I can easily reach in to remove and install the oil filter between the ABS and brake booster. The Baxter oil adapter includes a Schrader valve to blow out the oil from the entire system, which will reduce the mess from removing the oil filter.

The oil cooler has reduced oil temp by 20˚ and as a side benefit the coolant runs about 10˚ cooler now. While pulling the trailer on level ground the oil temp was almost always 230˚ and without the trailer I am seeing temps of about 220˚ in 100˚ heat. I finished the oil cooler project at 6:30 pm on Friday night and pulled out with my trailer for the Labor Day weekend at 5:30 am on Saturday. I pulled the trailer 665 miles on highways and forest roads and over rocky trails with 12 to 18 inch ledges and the engine oil never went above 257˚ and that was on a 10-minute pull up an 8% grade in 98˚ heat. The normal range I saw for the oil temp was 228˚-233˚. I recommend this upgrade to anyone with the 6-speed who tows trailers.

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[CarbonSteel]

Looks great. I'm looking for a place to install the cooler given that I plan to install a RIPP Supercharger and the intercooler goes where you mounted yours.

I went back with the Mopar unit, but am installing a Mishimoto radiator soon so that should help along with a Gladiator fan.

 

[Wolfslash16]

That's some beautiful overkill right there, I love the attention to detail. Nicely done!

 

[CarbonSteel]

This past week I completed installing an external oil cooler in my 2019 JLUR 3.6 with manual 6-speed. I previously installed the Dorman aluminum oil cooler housing before the OEM plastic one had a chance to fail. The Dorman resulted in higher engine oil temps due to heat soak from the new all-aluminum housing. I tow a 2800 off-roading trailer and I would see 263˚ oil temps when pulling up a 7% grade. I routinely saw temps of 253 ˚ when pulling on level ground at highway speeds (65 mph). Simply driving around in 100˚ heat in Southern Arizona I would routinely see my oil temp at 244˚+ with just the Jeep and no trailer. I had installed the Cold Case all-aluminum radiator and it helped with coolant temps and thought an external oil cooler would do the same with the oil temps.

I designed a bracket to hold a Derale 10000 series oil cooler that I mounted in front of the air conditioning condenser. I do not know if this would work for those with the 8-speed automatic as I believe the automatic transmission cooler would be in the way. I decided that due to the offset using the Derale mounting kit required designing the brackets to be to the side of the cooler and not in front or behind it due to the depth space limitation between the front grill and the condenser. I used the following items:
Baxter Performance MR-202-BK remote oil filter adapter
Derale series 10000 16-row oil cooler
Derale 50020 stacked plate mounting kit
Derale 25792 1/2" NPT fluid control thermostat
Derale 35709 Premium -10AN Side Ports Single Filter Mount, 3/4''-16 Filter Threads
Wix 51516XP spin-on oil filter
6.5 quarts Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Series synthetic engine oil
20 feet of RaceFlux Lightweight Nylon Braided Viton Hose for Fuel and Oil, -10AN
9 RaceFlux 90-degree double swivel seal hose end fittings, -10AN
1 150-degree double swivel seal hose end fitting, -10AN
DV8 engine bay compressor mount JL (sku 16198-1023) from Quadratec
1/4-20 grade 5 hardware

I drilled 4 holes in the engine bay compressor mount to mount the Derale thermostat. I used two of the existing holes to use two of the three mounting locations from the remote oil filter mount (the third hole would have been too close to the bracket edge). I used an angle grinder to cut each section of hose and installed one 90˚ fitting so that I could install it and run the hose to determine the routing and length. The bottom of the oil cooler lines up the with the lowest point of opening in the pre-2024 grill. I had to remove the drivers side horn to make room for the bracket on that side. It is a tight fit, but I have about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance between the back of the oil cooler and the front of the condenser.

I can easily reach in to remove and install the oil filter between the ABS and brake booster. The Baxter oil adapter includes a Schrader valve to blow out the oil from the entire system, which will reduce the mess from removing the oil filter.

The oil cooler has reduced oil temp by 20˚ and as a side benefit the coolant runs about 10˚ cooler now. While pulling the trailer on level ground the oil temp was almost always 230˚ and without the trailer I am seeing temps of about 220˚ in 100˚ heat. I finished the oil cooler project at 6:30 pm on Friday night and pulled out with my trailer for the Labor Day weekend at 5:30 am on Saturday. I pulled the trailer 665 miles on highways and forest roads and over rocky trails with 12 to 18 inch ledges and the engine oil never went above 257˚ and that was on a 10-minute pull up an 8% grade in 98˚ heat. The normal range I saw for the oil temp was 228˚-233˚. I recommend this upgrade to anyone with the 6-speed who tows trailers.

PS...where did you have your hoses made?

 

[danba]

I've installed an ancillary tranny cooler from Derale few years back. It all was fine and dandy until the hoses (that they've provided) decided to decompose on their own. They become like chewing gum in places. I've lost almost all my oil; luckily I was close to home.

In addition, the CFM ratings for some of their fans are also sometimes listed higher than their real volume. Even after I've notified them they remained listed the same.

I'd be very cautious using them in the future.

 

[_olllllllo_]

PS...where did you have your hoses made?

I made them myself. I just bought 20 feet of the NHRA approved hose and used my Milwaukee angle grinder to cut the various lengths needed. Assembled the fittings and the hoses were done. I spent an hour per hose between assembling one end, attaching that end, routing, measuring and then cutting and assembling the other end.

 

[_olllllllo_]

I've installed an ancillary tranny cooler from Derale few years back. It all was fine and dandy until the hoses (that they've provided) decided to decompose on their own. They become like chewing gum in places. I've lost almost all my oil; luckily I was close to home.

In addition, the CFM ratings for some of their fans are also sometimes listed higher than their real volume. Even after I've notified them they remained listed the same.

I'd be very cautious using them in the future.

I made my own hoses using hose that is approved for use by the NHRA. If it is good enough for a 10,000 hp dragster, it is good enough for my Jeep.

 

[C.Sco]

This is awesome, bookmarking this for later reference!

 

[CarbonSteel]

I made them myself. I just bought 20 feet of the NHRA approved hose and used my Milwaukee angle grinder to cut the various lengths needed. Assembled the fittings and the hoses were done. I spent an hour per hose between assembling one end, attaching that end, routing, measuring and then cutting and assembling the other end.

How did you crimp them? The hose is not normally the issue, it is the fitting coming off under pressure.

 

[_olllllllo_]

The AN10 fittings I used have a sleeve (red portion in graphic) that you screw on the outside of the hose end. My hands were cramping at the end from this portion of the fitting assembly. Then you screw the other end (blue portion in graphic) in to the fitting on the hose end. They have very fine threads and it makes an incredibly tight seal and the hose (brown portion in graphic) is sandwiched and captured. I hit 78 psi on a few of the mountain climbs for over 10-minutes straight and had no issues.

I bought the hose and fittings from Race Flux.

 

[CarbonSteel]

The AN10 fittings I used have a sleeve (red portion in graphic) that you screw on the outside of the hose end. My hands were cramping at the end from this portion of the fitting assembly. Then you screw the other end (blue portion in graphic) in to the fitting on the hose end. They have very fine threads and it makes an incredibly tight seal and the hose (brown portion in graphic) is sandwiched and captured. I hit 78 psi on a few of the mountain climbs for over 10-minutes straight and had no issues.

I bought the hose and fittings from Race Flux.

Did you use loctite? Not trying to belittle your good work, but vibration, pressure, and time are not friends of those types of connections. Keep an eye on them.

 

[_olllllllo_]

Did you use loctite? Not trying to belittle your good work, but vibration, pressure, and time are not friends of those types of connections. Keep an eye on them.

No offense taken. Loctite should not be used and I verified this with multiple fittings companies. The fittings are 37˚ flare fittings and they work with hydraulics as well. I designed a pneumatic system for a train when I worked for Siemens. I double checked the tightness of all fittings. I really prefer these over barb fittings due to the pressures involved.

 

[CarbonSteel]

No offense taken. Loctite should not be used and I verified this with multiple fittings companies. The fittings are 37˚ flare fittings and they work with hydraulics as well. I designed a pneumatic system for a train when I worked for Siemens. I double checked the tightness of all fittings. I really prefer these over barb fittings due to the pressures involved.

The 37° part is the end opposite the hose that screws onto the fitting? I spent some time with industrial hydraulics and the fittings were always crimped even at lower pressures like 100PSI.

 

[_olllllllo_]

The 37° part is the end opposite the hose that screws onto the fitting? I spent some time with industrial hydraulics and the fittings were always crimped even at lower pressures like 100PSI.

I spoke to the companies related to all aspects of assembly. The end that is basically pressed through the screwing process has a conical end that engages the inner diameter of the hose. Once completely run down the hose is captured over approximately an inch of compression between the two parts. The fittings are rated for 1000 psi and I was very cognizant to ensure the hose was not pushed out while screwing the fitting into the hose. I carried my plastic filter housing cap, a new cartridge filter and 5 quarts of oil just to be safe. I have 750 miles on the system and there are no leaks and everything looks great.

 

[CarbonSteel]

@_olllllllo_

Are you able cut the hose with a pair of PVC pipe shears for a clean cut?

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