Wheels/tires

[The Last Cowboy]

I like the simple design. Are the Motivs hub centric? If not look at a brand like Method.

There are so many better choices out there than the cheap Milestar tires. So many are better quality for around the same cost.

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[blnewt]

There are so many better choices out there than the cheap Milestar tires. So many are better quality for around the same cost.

Like I mentioned in my previous posting, they have a new version (the MT02) that I was unaware of, maybe they've made changes that address some of their previous shortcomings. If not, then agree w/ you 100%, for the current price they're now within the price of many tried and true brands.

 

[longfiredragon]

Well, this is one reason I have not jumped yet. I do not even know what hub centric is. I will research this.

I to love the simple design and having a little lip rather than flush to the outside like a lot of wheels. I also can't stand a bunch of fake bolt heads and/or rivets and 30 spokes. I like simple and easy to clean. These are also specific off road wheels. I also still have to look closer at backspacing etc. These say (I think) something like 5". Not sure what it means. Also not sure how far they might stick out past the fender.

Still learning here. I like M/Ts. Couldn't find that many for around the $250 mark and mostly 5 star reviews.

What M/Ts do you think are better at this price point?

Thanks.

 

[blnewt]

Hubcentric means the wheel bore on the wheel matches the flange size on the hub. The hub bore is 71.5mm on the JLs, the factory wheels are hubcentric as are many aftermarket brands. If your aftermarket wheels have a larger bore your lug nuts will center the wheel on the hub, it's a lug-centric mount. Most always there's not a problem running just a lug centric fit, there are rare times that the wheel won't get perfectly centered and adding hub adapter rings (only get the aluminum ones) that fit between the larger aftermarket bore and the JL 71.5 mm bore to essentially make it a hubcentric fit. This can often help if there is a slight high speed wobble that can't be traced to an out of balance tire/wheel.
If you have two wheels that you like pretty much equally and only 1 is available in the hubcentric I'd lean toward a hubcentric set.

 

[longfiredragon]

Hubcentric means the wheel bore on the wheel matches the flange size on the hub. The hub bore is 71.5mm on the JLs, the factory wheels are hubcentric as are many aftermarket brands. If your aftermarket wheels have a larger bore your lug nuts will center the wheel on the hub, it's a lug-centric mount. Most always there's not a problem running just a lug centric fit, there are rare times that the wheel won't get perfectly centered and adding hub adapter rings (only get the aluminum ones) that fit between the larger aftermarket bore and the JL 71.5 mm bore to essentially make it a hubcentric fit. This can often help if there is a slight high speed wobble that can't be traced to an out of balance tire/wheel.
If you have two wheels that you like pretty much equally and only 1 is available in the hubcentric I'd lean toward a hubcentric set.

I called them. None of their wheels are hub centric, they come with the rings. Except a 8 lug wheel they make for something.

Figures, finally find wheels I really like, and no. Lol.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

Backspace is usually measured in millimeters. The factory wheels are +44, soemtimes simply called 44. All negative backspace wheels will have a - in the spec, such as -12.

Zero offset wheels have an equal amount of width from the center. Zero offset will stick out about 1-1.5” depending on Rubicon axles or not. +12 to +18 will usually get the tread even with the fender edge. +25 will get a good flush look, with nothing sticking out, or “poke” as some tend to call it.

 

[longfiredragon]

These wheels state 5" back space or something like 127mm.

If I got this right, they would stick out quite a bit.

 

[blnewt]

These wheels state 5" back space or something like 127mm.

If I got this right, they would stick out quite a bit.

5" backspace isn't bad regarding poke, depends if you plan to lift in the future. If a lift is coming you'll want less backspacing. Need to plan ahead as you probably don't want to buy again.

 

[blnewt]

I called them. None of their wheels are hub centric, they come with the rings. Except a 8 lug wheel they make for something.

Figures, finally find wheels I really like, and no. Lol.

If it's not hubcentric it's not a deal breaker, some wheels have 2 sets of lug holes and come w/ a big center cap that covers the holes that aren't used, not a fan of that type. They would seem to be weaker in that area from the looks of them.

 

[longfiredragon]

That's exactly what these wheels are. They come with a cap to cover everything.

They also come with spacers I believe for the holes your going to use. In theory i believe the spacer would keep things lined up and help keep some amount of strength.

I have 2" spacer lift, does this count? Or were you speaking of a full lift?

Thanks.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

Choose wisely, buy once, cry once. I'm sure there are many hub centric wheels out there. The ones I like are Method, Icon, Black Rhino (their more simple designs) and Mopar aftermarket wheels.

As stated above, avoid the dual drilled, universal fit wheels. They will not be hubcentric and it make the center part of the wheel weaker.

The more simple the design, the stronger the wheel and the easier it is to care for. A good quality tire will wear better, perform better and last a lot longer than the budget or "off" tire brands out there. As far as I know, there is no tire out there that is the secret that only enthusiasts know about.

Milestar Patagonia tires are great in the rocks at low PSI, that's why they became popular. But their strength is not as a primary daily driver tire. If you just want a tire that everyone else doesn't have, look at Pirelli, Yokohama, General, Firestone, Falken or Kumho to name a few. Remember, there's a reason some things are popular, it's because they have proven reliable and they work well.

Keep your primary use in mind when you make your decision and you will be far more likely to be happy with your purchase. Nothing is more expensive than regrets, because you have to buy all over again.

 

[longfiredragon]

Choose wisely, buy once, cry once. I'm sure there are many hub centric wheels out there. The ones I like are Method, Icon, Black Rhino (their more simple designs) and Mopar aftermarket wheels.

As stated above, avoid the dual drilled, universal fit wheels. They will not be hubcentric and it make the center part of the wheel weaker.

The more simple the design, the stronger the wheel and the easier it is to care for. A good quality tire will wear better, perform better and last a lot longer than the budget or "off" tire brands out there. As far as I know, there is no tire out there that is the secret that only enthusiasts know about.

Milestar Patagonia tires are great in the rocks at low PSI, that's why they became popular. But their strength is not as a primary daily driver tire. If you just want a tire that everyone else doesn't have, look at Pirelli, Yokohama, General, Firestone, Falken or Kumho to name a few. Remember, there's a reason some things are popular, it's because they have proven reliable and they work well.

Keep your primary use in mind when you make your decision and you will be far more likely to be happy with your purchase. Nothing is more expensive than regrets, because you have to buy all over again.

Agreed, sound advise.

I learned from you guys about primary use, it's one of the reasons I have a Willys and not paid extra for a Rubicon I won't really use to their full capability.
That said we do go off road, easy to moderate trails and a lot dirt roads that aren't always in that great of shape.

Plus we're heading out west and there is no way in hell I am going out there and not doing some trails.

Another reason I am considering all this. I would feel better about doing the trails out west with a little bigger foot print on the ground.

I will continue to research. Thanks.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

You can drive Black Bear and do many Moab trails on Rubicon take offs. I would take the bypass on anything that would cause damage.

If you want to mod to handle most of the difficult trails, then your overall driveability and road trip comfort will suffer. Everything is a compromise, weigh the pros and cons of your want and needs before you make a final decision.

 

[blnewt]

Might take a look at Falken Wildpeak ATs and Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT, they have a deeper tread than most All Terrain tires and should work well for the roads getting out west, then on the trails once you get there. Nothing wrong w/ BFG K02s either, they have a shallow tread depth but are a good overall design. Like @The Last Cowboy mentioned, look for wheels that are simple and strong, I have ATX wheels (mine are discontinued) and they are hubcentric, easy to clean up and strong (on my old Patagonias)

 

[longfiredragon]

Thanks guys I shall continue to look and price different tires.

I have the BFG M/Ts already so it's not like they ride the best or don't make considerably noise, they do. But they also have 30K on them already. Besides the milage on them like I said I was thinking if I replaced them in the next month or so I will have new, wider tires for the trails out west.

Thanks.

Not to mention a tad more clearance.

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