Trailer wiring harness choices...

[jrcinnh]

Hi everyone, new to this forum.

I'm looking to add a hitch to my new Moab. The wiring kit from Mopar seems costly and complicated, but the Curt and Rugged Ridge seem a cheaper and simpler. I read most of the threads here and it seems the Curt kit is most popular, why is the Rugged Ridge kit less popular?

The only time consuming parts seem to be running the power wire up to battery. Instead of that, there is a 12 volt power plug (cigarette light style) right next to the drivers side taillight bolt. Could I just tap off the wiring to that power plug? Would save a bunch of time and taking things apart.

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[ClaytonW]

I am sure that it can be done, it will work and it makes sense. But... You should not do it because it's not recommended and probably the main reason is that the fuse and wires for the socket are designed for max 13A (20A fuse). It should be enough for the trailer but there is no way how to prevent you from using the rear power outlet at the same moment while a trailer is connected. So it is not considered safe.
BTW, if you still plan to do it (although not recommended), using this Quadratec power adapter helps:
https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadratec/12-volt-power-adapter-jeep-wrangler-jl

 

[jrcinnh]

Thanks, good advice. I ordered the hitch and the wiring harness. Since my immediate need is a bike rack, I'm in no hurry to do the wiring. I'll take a look at snaking the wire up to the battery and only consider the other idea if it look like a PITA.

The only real issue would be a blown fuse if the trailer and the power outlet exceed the fuse size, not a dangerous situation.

 

[four low]

Thanks, good advice. I ordered the hitch and the wiring harness. Since my immediate need is a bike rack, I'm in no hurry to do the wiring. I'll take a look at snaking the wire up to the battery and only consider the other idea if it look like a PITA.

The only real issue would be a blown fuse if the trailer and the power outlet exceed the fuse size, not a dangerous situation.

Not having tail lights on your trailer and tow vehicle on a dark rainy night could be dangerous for you and others on the road.
Running a parallel, separate wire to the battery is "easy " considering the down sides. Just my opinion, I'll be wiring my Curt Flat Four harness next week, as per the instructions.

 

[ClaytonW]

Not having tail lights on your trailer and tow vehicle on a dark rainy night could be dangerous for you and others on the road.

But the factory wires going to the rear power outlet are probably more reliable, less prone to offroad damage... I would bet, that this is more reliable solution with a lower risk of failure. But it's just my guess. Of course, you should not forget that your trailer is connected and not use the outlet for something else while towing.

 

[kkipp9]

I installed my curt wiring harness a few weeks ago. It is pretty easy to run that power wire inside the frame. Just take your time and push it along. There are several holes in the frame as you go. I used wire loom in the front and rear to protect it where it comes out of the frame.

 

[dsgrey]

Installed the Curt Flat Four harness today and their video is excellent. I've installed their class II on the past 4 cars I've owned and the Jeep is easy.

 

[CFI785]

Using the power outlet power tap from quadratec provides ground and power and would make a complete plug and play system. A trailer light is light isolator is recommend to protect the canbus electrical system from shorts. Most of us add the trailer hitch for a recovery point and to be able to tow a small trailer. LED Stop turn tail light draws less than one amp. Two lights at full load would be less than 2 amps. In contrast a small 12v fridge can draw 5 amps, A small inverter can draw 10 amps. Most of us would never have a use for the 7 pin plug.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-202865.html

 

[four low]

While tapping into the rear power outlet is quick and convenient, easy to rationalize, I think utilizing the separate power wire, fused at battery, is the "safest ".
I installed the Curt Flat Four harness, and had no problem running the power wire back from the battery, along the cowl ,through the plastic grommet on the drivers side, tucked under plastic trim (a wooden tongue depressor is great for this) along the tub rail, and through the factory rubber plug to the taillight cavity. No need to remove any trim pieces, other than the 2 small ones for access to tail light removal screws. I used about 7' of harness loom, plus 6 plastic harness plug in clips, not included in kit, to run across the rear cross member. Well worth the extra cost.
I ran the Flat Four harness, and passenger tail light harness , using harness loom, across the rear cross member , and up into the passenger tail light cavity. There are holes for plastic clips in the cross member, and tail light cavity, I made use of them, plus tie wraps.
Be aware that the tailgate retaining arm moves into that Passenger cavity when closed, clip the harness to the hole provided to avoid any chance of contact

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