Tapping? Sucking sound?

[TaiMc]

Dealer notified me today


"Hi there. working on your Jeep. We are replacing the right side cylinder head per Chrysler. Should have parts next week.?"

We will see I guess. You mechanically inclined guys think replacing just the right side where majority of the noise sounded like it was coming from will fix the issue? Or would both side of the head likely be damaged from the issue? I haven't heard their diagnosis on the whistling/sucking sound yet but I will let you know, nor their resolution to the stop start not working.

Thanks guys!

also, the start/stop light is being thrown because you do have engine problems.

the ESS light was the only light that came on when my cylinders were warped. I was told it was an indication of a misfire. Once the engine is fixed/replaced the ESS light should go away.

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[wolf]

That tapping sucking noise is the dealer saying give me money as he taps on your wallet. ?

 

[JimmyZ]

That tapping sucking noise is the dealer saying give me money as he taps on your wallet. ?

Lol thankfully they are tapping into the manufacturers pocket as it's under warranty ?

 

[JimmyZ]

also, the start/stop light is being thrown because you do have engine problems.

the ESS light was the only light that came on when my cylinders were warped. I was told it was an indication of a misfire. Once the engine is fixed/replaced the ESS light should go away.

My light never came on which is the weird thing. The only indication is on the display under the stop start menu it is ALWAYS on "not ready". You think it's still related?

 

[mwilk012]

Since you are under warranty (extended warranty) if they replace the entire block it should be new and not rebuilt. If they eventually go this route, as they should, be sure to get confirmation in writing…a text or email with the service manager agreeing to the fact that the replacement engine will be brand new and not refurbished.

A Reman is just as good as new, and they have every right to go that route. They will use whatever is most available at the time.

 

[mwilk012]

My light never came on which is the weird thing. The only indication is on the display under the stop start menu it is ALWAYS on "not ready". You think it's still related?

No.

 

[TaiMc]

My light never came on which is the weird thing. The only indication is on the display under the stop start menu it is ALWAYS on "not ready". You think it's still related?

My ESS light came on but it was the “A!” Service light. The engine specialist told me the reason why it was on was because I had a misfire in one of my cylinders and the ESS light will come on due to that. He mentioned that the ESS light will almost function like an engine light…that if there are any issues with the engine not running properly, the light will come on.

My batteries were good, so the ESS light wasn’t related to them (recently changed the aux myself and main was changed last fall).

 

[longfiredragon]

If it is done right, it can be fine. I had 2004 mustang Mach 1 that developed a tick on the left bank (cylinder head) Ford new of the issue. The tech. Followed all the steps and was diagnosed as needing a new head. I have mechanic all my life.

All I told the tech was if one thing didn't work right, or I saw one thing out of place I would be bringing it back. Even scratched bolts.

He removed the entire engine and trans, put the engine on a stand, wheeled it into his engine room for 2 days and reassembled it. Then he reassembled the engine and transmission back in the car and even touched up the hood bolts. You would never have known all that work was done. The car is still in the family, my daughter owns it. It has 98k on it and still runs and drives perfect, burns no oil nothing.

Best of luck, but do tell the dealership what you expect and if it's not right don't be afraid to take it back until they get it perfect.

 

[JimmyZ]

Update... You guys were right. They replaced the right side of the head and they said it's still making the same noise. The tech said since they have changed to direct injection they have had nothing but problems. They said they are putting a "new" engine in it. When I asked if it was brand new they said it would be remanufactured. I was livid. I reached out to a contact there who looked at the order and he's saying I'm actually getting a new motor cause that was all that was available. I've attached the screenshot. How do I ensure it's a new motor not a remanufactured motor? And if they tell me they won't put in a new motor what should I do? I shouldn't have to get a refurbished motor in my brand new ride. This is so frustrating.

 

[Kyanche]

The 3.6 isn't direct injected. Also that 68565534AB is the part number for a motor from Mopar. Some parts websites (if you google the number) describe it as a 'new engine long block'

Makes me wonder how screwed up mine is. It produces a lot of clicking noise on the passenger side lol.

 

[JimmyZ]

The 3.6 isn't direct injected. Also that 68565534AB is the part number for a motor from Mopar. Some parts websites (if you google the number) describe it as a 'new engine long block'

Makes me wonder how screwed up mine is. It produces a lot of clicking noise on the passenger side lol.

False information from the dealer - surprised ?

 

[TaiMc]

Also that 68565534AB is the part number for a motor from Mopar. Some parts websites (if you google the number) describe it as a 'new engine long block…

This right here. This is how I knew mine was brand new. The part #.

My original motor was a 2018. Teh invoice showed that I received the new long block 2021-2022 motor bc of the part #

@JimmyZ

 

[TaiMc]

….. I reached out to a contact there who looked at the order and he's saying I'm actually getting a new motor cause that was all that was available.

This too. I looked up the long block for my year 2018, it was “discontinued”. Idk what that really means (really discontinued or back-ordered) , but I think that’s why they put a newer year in mine.

Plus my Service Manager told me they already had the new block there. They already ordered it before I brought my Jeep in.

 

[JimmyZ]

In your video are you talking about that fast paced clucking noise coming from the crank pulley area? That is some sort of solenoid that clicks rapidly at operating temp. If you shut the engine off and start it up again you will notice it will be gone for 30 seconds then it clicks and the sound returns. Pretty sure that noise is normal. Also your engine is port injected so the tech doesn't know what he is talking about.

The noise in my video is consistent and never stops... It's the diesel sound. Definitely and I mean DEFINITELY NOT normal. I have driven many of Jeeps with the same engine and currently am in a Gladiator same year and within 6k miles and purrs like a kitten, not like a diesel.

 

[58Willys]

My 3.6 does not sound the OP’s.

I would not worry about a remanufactured engine. Anything reman’d should be to original factory specs; no over boring, sleeves, etc… Reman and rebuilt are two different things.

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