Sway bar end link rubbing

[jptrades]

Hi there, would love some advice!

I have 2023 Willys 2 dr, and I’m running 285/70/17 Toyo Open Country AT3s on stock wheels and no lift.

I noticed some rubbing at full lock on even ground, and upon examination I can see and feel that contact was being made with the sway bar end links, right at the bushing where it connects. I had just had a Teraflex quick disconnect kit installed by a reputable shop - I hadn’t noticed any rub at full lock before the install, but I am only 2000km in and it’s possible I just never noticed. I can’t imagine that the quick disco installation caused it, that wouldn't make any sense would it?

I decided to try the steering stop adjustment with washers. Given that the Jeep already has an extremely tight turning radius, I wasn’t worried about an increase there. Adding one washer at a time, I got up to 3 washers before I eliminated the rub on the passenger side at full left turn lock. However, even with 3 washers there is still a rather noticeable rub at full right turn lock on the driver side.

I recognize it’s probably no big deal, but I find it extremely annoying and since I’m detail oriented, I’m compelled to fix it.

I’m currently pricing out Mickey Thompson Classic III wheels with 4.5” backspacing, -12mm offset 17x9 which I understand will remedy this problem and future proof me for 35’s in the future with a lift?

I’d prefer to avoid using spacers, their use in Ontario is dubious.. technically they’re not allowed but “adapters” can be, in both cases though it’s likely the dealer and many shops will not want to perform rotation etc and I don’t want the added concern of constantly checking torque on the spacers every few thousand km.

So where I’d like your help (and thanks in advance!) is answering:

1) Any idea why I am dealing with this rubbing? I have searched high and low and everyone seems to think this shouldn’t happen and at worst a couple washers on the steering stops would fix it.

2) Will the above mentioned new wheels solve the problem?

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[JAF1]

Almost certainly the new sway bar end links are reason. Do you still have the OEM ones to compare? If so, I'd swap them back in real quick and check again. No way they should be hitting with everything stock.

 

[JT1]

You don't need a -12 offset wheel to clear those. Any of the quadratec wheels for the JL that are +10 should clear a 12.50 tire and will certainly move the 285s off your end link. Keeps them tucked in another inch.

 

[GATORB8]

Likely has more to do more with the length of the link than width of the joint.

 

[jptrades]

Thanks for the input guys, you're right that these are longer than the factory link, which I didn't realize has probably moved the whole bar upwards, putting the link in a position where it rubs now when it wouldn't have before.

So let's assume I like the quick disconnect and eventually plan to lift and go 35. In the interim, if I run the wheels I mentioned, I should resolve the issue, no?

Re: the +10 clearing OK, thanks for the info. I see that negative offset is very common with Jeep wheels for looks - even if a positive offset would clear, could I still run the -12 for aesthetics? I am not overly concerned over fender contact if they poke out a bit, my off road use is pretty tame since I'm just learning. The Mickey Thompson wheels and they seem to only be available with this offset for our bolt pattern.

 

[JT1]

Thanks for the input guys, you're right that these are longer than the factory link, which I didn't realize has probably moved the whole bar upwards, putting the link in a position where it rubs now when it wouldn't have before.

So let's assume I like the quick disconnect and eventually plan to lift and go 35. In the interim, if I run the wheels I mentioned, I should resolve the issue, no?

Re: the +10 clearing OK, thanks for the info. I see that negative offset is very common with Jeep wheels for looks - even if a positive offset would clear, could I run the -12 for aesthetics without downside? It's especially relevant because I like the Mickey Thompson wheels and they seem to only be available with this offset for our bolt pattern.

yes, you CAN run it, but that's a bunch of poke, and a big change in scrub radius for looks. the outer edge of your tire is going to be about 2.5" farther out when you move to a 35.

 

[jptrades]

yes, you CAN run it, but that's a bunch of poke, and a big change in scrub radius for looks. the outer edge of your tire is going to be about 2.5" farther out when you move to a 35.

OK thank you! Super helpful! I will revise my wheel search for something closer to 0 offset.. from what I understand, the real difference maker here would be getting the "correct" backspacing, right?

 

[JT1]

OK thank you! Super helpful! I will revise my wheel search for something closer to 0 offset.. from what I understand, the real difference maker here would be getting the "correct" backspacing, right?

Correct. Anything with 5.2 or less backspacing should keep them tucked in as much as possible and still clear the hard parts you need to clear. Even a zero offset (9" or narrower) will still be a half inch less poke than a -12.

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