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Subwoofer Recommendations

cherrykuma

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Hi all, I'm back lol.

So after hearing from many people on this and other forums, I've decided to do the following to my 2024 4xe with the stock/basic sound system:
  • Replace the dash speakers with the Terra Acoustics speakers.
  • Add a subwoofer - I'm assuming I may need an amp too for this? I've seen amps mentioned a few times, but I'm not very familiar with this still lol.
  • Possibly put polyfill in the soundbar vs replacing the speakers there.
The only thing now is... I have no idea what to buy in terms of a sub LOL. I looked at Crutchfield yesterday, but there's quite a few options out there and I'm not sure if I should put a sub under the front passenger seat or set it up in the trunk somehow.

So I'm curious - those of you who have added a sub... what did you do? Did you do under the seat or in the back? If you did under the seat, how does it sound? Does it not sound weird having everything at the front?

Also, if anyone has actual product recommendations for subs, I'd appreciate it! I'd like to make my purchases this week if I can - I'm getting anxious to have things sounding better!

Thx!

Edit: I'm wondering if something like this would be good. Has decent reviews and not crazy expensive:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693133/JL-Audio-CP108LG-W3v3.html?tp=112
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1Evil55

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I replaced the dash and rollbar speakers with JL CX series replacements including adding more polyfil. Next was the addition of a single JL Stealthbox to the passenger side along with a 5 channel amp. It absolutely bumps and screams even with the top gone.
 
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cherrykuma

cherrykuma

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I replaced the dash and rollbar speakers with JL CX series replacements including adding more polyfil. Next was the addition of a single JL Stealthbox to the passenger side along with a 5 channel amp. It absolutely bumps and screams even with the top gone.
Is there a benefit to adding the sub under the seat vs putting it in the back besides space? And where does that amp go? I would've liked the sub to go under the passenger seat in the back, but im pretty sure there's an EV battery under there so it'd have to go in the front
 

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Is there a benefit to adding the sub under the seat vs putting it in the back besides space? And where does that amp go? I would've liked the sub to go under the passenger seat in the back, but im pretty sure there's an EV battery under there so it'd have to go in the front
The JL Stealthbox Jeff mentioned goes on the rear side, similar to stock Alpine:
Jeep Wrangler JL Subwoofer Recommendations 1712699644951-by
 

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I always thought the stock radio had a SUB -par ? subwoofer and not sub less.
 

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cherrykuma

cherrykuma

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The JL Stealthbox Jeff mentioned goes on the rear side, similar to stock Alpine:
1712699644951-by.png
Yeah that one seems super nice.... but it's also like $1k ?‍? this is a lease, so I'm not trying to spend that much money unfortunately
 

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Yeah that one seems super nice.... but it's also like $1k ?‍? this is a lease, so I'm not trying to spend that much money unfortunately
Realistically, I'd expect it to hold it's value pretty well.

There are some similar options, like the unloaded enclosure from SSV.
 

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i picked up the kicker amplified sub a few months ago. maybe one day ill install it......

its somewhat plug and play with the stock system. i also picked up the dodge dart speakers for the dash and rollbar. they have the same ohm rating as the stock speakers. unless you replace all the speakers, it will sound out of wack. using the dodge dart kickers (stock/oem) works fine. the amplified sub is not affected by this.

add polyfill to the speakers and some dynamat on the roll bar. this is what i would recommend for a rented leased vehicle.
 
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You might want to look on CL, FB Marketplace, and the “member” forums right here. If you don’t care much about permanent fit, but just want a big thumpy thing for a while, those lists are full of used enclosures, some with amps.

Friendly bit of advice: the subwoofer culture, for better or worse, is dominated by people who think dual 12” ported enclosures are the bare minimum. That’s 0.1% of the market, but they’re an opinionated bunch, people who have a specific hobby. It’s similar to how 0.1% of the Jeeps out there have 40” wheels on tons. Wheelers who want that tire config are an opinionated bunch, and they have a specific hobby.

It’s a pretty good analogy.

If you just want more accurate sound quality (not sound pressure) in 99% of Jeeps on the road, a much smaller unit than a huge ported thing will gently improve your factory sound.

It’s very easy to get lost in the YouTube videos of what’s the “better” subwoofer rig. Mostly it’s hobbyists making content for other hobbyists.
 

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cherrykuma

cherrykuma

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i picked up the kicker amplified sub a few months ago. maybe one day ill install it......

its somewhat plug and play with the stock system. i also picked up the dodge dart speakers for the dash and rollbar. they have the same ohm rating as the stock speakers. unless you replace all the speakers, it will sound out of wack. using the dodge dart kickers (stock/oem) works fine. the amplified sub is not affected by this.

add polyfill to the speakers and some dynamat on the roll bar. this is what i would recommend for a rented leased vehicle.
From my understanding and from what I've seen people commenting on other posts, you don't need to replace all 8 speakers for things to improve. That's why I was thinking of starting with the TA's and a sub. I may do the rollbar at a later time, but unfortunately, they changed things in the 24s so there isn't really a plug and play option for it yet.
 
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cherrykuma

cherrykuma

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You might want to look on CL, FB Marketplace, and the “member” forums right here. If you don’t care much about permanent fit, but just want a big thumpy thing for a while, those lists are full of used enclosures, some with amps.

Friendly bit of advice: the subwoofer culture, for better or worse, is dominated by people who think dual 12” ported enclosures are the bare minimum. That’s 0.1% of the market, but they’re an opinionated bunch, people who have a specific hobby. It’s similar to how 0.1% of the Jeeps out there have 40” wheels on tons. Wheelers who want that tire config are an opinionated bunch, and they have a specific hobby.

It’s a pretty good analogy.

If you just want more accurate sound quality (not sound pressure) in 99% of Jeeps on the road, a much smaller unit than a huge ported thing will gently improve your factory sound.

It’s very easy to get lost in the YouTube videos of what’s the “better” subwoofer rig. Mostly it’s hobbyists making content for other hobbyists.
Oooh I didn't really think about getting a used one. I'm just so paranoid about spending money on something and it working/not working since it's a lease and I know they changed things in the 24s.

I definitely don't need a sub that'll make you be able to hear me a street away or anything LOL. I just want to be able to actually hear the bass and deep tones in songs and enjoy music with the windows down/top off this summer ?
 
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Also, let me save you some trouble:

IMHO:

Ported = excellent for electronic music since it has impressive thump. It’s good for music that’s specifically made with such subs in mind, like hip-hop and “house.” It’s a bias towards modern mix, modern sound.

Unported (or sealed, or “acoustic suspension”) = a more accurate return of the driver, and thus better accuracy for things like vocals and acoustic guitars. It’s a bias towards timeless reproduction.

An active/passive (Kicker PTRTP, CompRT, etc.) is somewhere in the middle.

All of this is both a science and an art. It’s also just my opinion. None of it is true at stadium scale.

Unfortunately, nobody makes a perfect JL 2-dr unit for me. With your 4-dr, you have several choices (e.g., the JL side sub). Just make sure you can wire it. Might be a good idea to use a pro.
 
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cherrykuma

cherrykuma

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Also, let me save you some trouble:

IMHO:

Ported = excellent for electronic music since it has impressive thump. It’s good for music that’s specifically made with such subs in mind, like hip-hop and “house.” It’s a bias towards modern mix, modern sound.

Unported (or sealed, or “acoustic suspension”) = a more accurate return of the driver, and thus better accuracy for things like vocals and acoustic guitars. It’s a bias towards timeless reproduction.

An active/passive (Kicker PTRTP, CompRT, etc.) is somewhere in the middle.

All of this is both a science and an art. It’s also just my opinion. None of it is true at stadium scale.

Unfortunately, nobody makes a perfect JL 2-dr unit for me. With your 4-dr, you have several choices (e.g., the JL side sub). Just make sure you can wire it. Might be a good idea to use a pro.
Thanks for that! I think a ported one is gunna be the way I'd like to go based on the kind of music I listen to. Looks like that one I linked above is ported so that's good, plus it's reasonably priced.

I know nothing about the wiring, but luckily my sister's boyfriend has replaced about 5 different sound systems in vehicles - including 1 or 2 wranglers, so that's good. I just need to figure out what I'd need to do with amps or whatever? Haha
 
 







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