Shorter wheel studs???

[anotherWS6]

Long story short = I wantt o put the 35's off of my 2000 silverado (6x5.5 bolt pattern) on my 18 JL. I ordered adapters and did a rough test fit last night and think I ill be fine EXCEPT - The adapters/spacers are two piece and the factory wheel studs are too long to allow the two pieces to seat. I could just cut the factory studs but would prefer to install new ones.

Anyone know how to go about finding the the correct size studs? They need to be factory spec but BOUT 1/2 an inch shorter. Everything I search comes up with older jeep results.

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[anotherWS6]

• Or maybe a better question is - can I use JK studs on my JL? I know the pattern is different (JK is 1/2x20 and JL is 14mmx1.50) There are plenty of options available in different lengths for the JK. I don't mind the different pattern as there is some extra room in the adapter. I guess I really need to know the knurl diameter and length which believe are 0.667 and 0.875 respectively. - There just isn't much info out there for the new JL's. Makes me sad

 

[blnewt]

The JL studs are 14mm so the stud anchors will be too small on JK studs. Probably have a hard time finding shorter ones unless maybe Dodge has some vehicles running 14mm that are shorter. If you have the exact specs for stock JL studs might go to a large NAPA store and see if they have 14mm that would fit properly in the length you need.

 

[anotherWS6]

I dont have the stock specs, going crazy. I have spent hours over several days searching. No one can help - Mopar, dorman, summit etc.....

How can NO ONE know what the stock specs on a wheel stud are? CraZy

 

[anotherWS6]

I'll give this a shot in the dark, probably nor but you never know, bump.

Trying to be a logical, reasonably smart adult about things buuuut..... it's getting harder for me to resist taking a cut off wheel to my factory studs.

Did some light off roading and man, could really use the bigger tires. Jeep is amazing but lots of stuff unset these things to scrape on rocks. Rear control arms live to bite into stuff. Having a perfect set of 35s that I can't use is like torture to me, lol.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Just cut them. How much needs to come off? When I do spacers, I just take a flap disc and grind them down to right before the threads start. Always works great

Brett

 

[JIMBOX]

Have you considered how much the WHEELS/TIRES will stick out when you're done ???

W.E.

JIMBO

 

[anotherWS6]

Just cut them. How much needs to come off? When I do spacers, I just take a flap disc and grind them down to right before the threads start. Always works great

Brett

It's been awhile since I did a rough test fit at 11pm in my driveway, but I'd say about a half an inch. I need to mock the new wheels up again and do an accurate measurement if I really want to cut them.

My main concern is having enough meat left on the studs to remount the facotry wheels with no spacers when I take it to the dealer etc. It's a lease as well.

 

[anotherWS6]

Have you considered how much the WHEELS/TIRES will stick out when you're done ???

W.E.

JIMBO

Yup. I did a test fit in my driveway of a wheel and tire (same size but factory rim with blown tire). They will stick out but I'm fine with how much. I'm going to go with aftermarket flat fenders. Clearance will be good all around.

 

[JLRubiMD]

Just cut them. How much needs to come off? When I do spacers, I just take a flap disc and grind them down to right before the threads start. Always works great

Brett

+1

I have had good luck cutting/grinding down studs. If you have to grind down past where the threads start, I suggest threading on an open ended nut first. When done grinding, back the nut off, it'll straighten out the end threads good enough to carefully start a lug nut.

A new stud is around $10, if you're worried then buy one before giving it a go. Worse case scenario is you muck the stud up during the trial run, hammer it out and use a stack of washers and a nut to pull the new one into place.

 

[anotherWS6]

If I feel like there will be enough thread left to remount the factory wheels I may just cut one stud and then put a factory wheel on to prove it to myself.

I put a couple of open lug nuts on the factory wheel instead of the factory ones after my test fit and there is about 3 or 4 threads plus the end nub sticking out of it so I'd probably be fine cutting. Just dont want to make a stupid mistake. I'm concerned more about safety than cost. An open nut should have SOME stud extending past it, not sure how much is considered safe. With a closed stud.... ????? I know they would LOOK fine if I handed back to a dealer. But I dont want to screw some unsuspecting customer over a few years down the road.

 

[anotherWS6]

+1

I have had good luck cutting/grinding down studs. If you have to grind down past where the threads start, I suggest threading on an open ended nut first. When done grinding, back the nut off, it'll straighten out the end threads good enough to carefully start a lug nut.

Good advice. I've had a tap and die set in my Summit Racing cart for months now. Dunno if I would need it.

What would you use to cut the stud with? Just go with a cutoff wheel and then lightly grind the burrs of with 80?

 

[JLRubiMD]

A $4 cutt-off wheel worked perfect last time, probably 0.045" thick since that the standard the local hardware store sells. Not sure what my grinding wheel was but any would do to deburr it, it was probably an 80. I remember I had one stud the thread wasn't good enough to start a lug nut even though the open ended nut threaded off easily. I took the edge of a file and just filed that thread by hand to get it straight and the lug went on easily. The other 19 studs were easy to start lugs on right after removing the open ended nut.

FYI (just for anyone who has never done this before): be sure to start the lugs by hand and make sure they are threading right. If you try to start them with an impact hammer, it's very easy to cross thread once you've cut the studs back to the thread

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