One wheel drive in low range?

rustyshakelford

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I’m still struggling with the premise of the OP that reverse is geared so high that he has trouble backing up his driveway. Is that something others with manuals have noticed?
It doesn’t creep much and will get going pretty quick. I can see what he’s talking about and have used 2L on my bigger trucks for back up a hill to keep the trans temp down.

Brett





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Tech Tim

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So what does that do to your front diff? The FAD allows both front tires to spin freely without turning the ring gear. The internal diff bevel gears are spinning like crazy to make this happen. Now apply power to the front driveshaft when shifting into 4H or 4L without engaging the FAD and now your ring gear is turning the diff carrier as well. Is that bad for the front diff to be used like this?
You are partially correct.

The FAD disconnects the RH (passenger) side axle shaft. The LH (drivers) side shaft is still spinning and it will be turning the side and spiders gears in the diff. The ring gear will also be turning a small amount due to any hydrostatic pressure built up as you are driving.

The only way to completely disconnect the front axle would be to do a free/spin-locking hub conversion.
 

sanman357

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I’m still struggling with the premise of the OP that reverse is geared so high that he has trouble backing up his driveway. Is that something others with manuals have noticed?
I have a tight driveway and do feel that reverse is geared a little high.
 
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skej

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You are partially correct.

The FAD disconnects the RH (passenger) side axle shaft. The LH (drivers) side shaft is still spinning and it will be turning the side and spiders gears in the diff. The ring gear will also be turning a small amount due to any hydrostatic pressure built up as you are driving.

The only way to completely disconnect the front axle would be to do a free/spin-locking hub conversion.
Sorry I’ve been MIA, been doing some more research on this. I recently hooked up to a trailer just to see how bad things would be and if I need to go up any kind of incline and manuvure the trailer I have to keep the RPM’s between 2k and 3k and constantly work the clutch. I can almost feel it wearing away.

I’m kinda leaning towards manual locking hubs, couldn’t I just leave them locked 99% of the time for a (factory configuration) and unlock them anytime I plan on using 4low to position a trailer? I’ve never used manual locking hubs before so I’m worried I don’t fully understand the downsides if any.
 

Tech Tim

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I’m kinda leaning towards manual locking hubs, couldn’t I just leave them locked 99% of the time for a (factory configuration) and unlock them anytime I plan on using 4low to position a trailer? I’ve never used manual locking hubs before so I’m worried I don’t fully understand the downsides if any.
You could, though the beauty of locking hubs would be leaving them unlocked 99.5% of the time and then only lock them when you actually need 4wd. Saving you wear and tear on the axle components and giving you a little better economy.

Now all that said, no one is building a locking hub conversion kit for the JL at this time. Will a JK kit retrofit? Don't know yet.

If it were me, I'd be tempted to do the TeraFlex 2 Low conversion first. Then you are not driving the front driveshaft at all when in low range.
 

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