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My local car wash has a Simonize salt dissolver chemical as part of their cleaning process.
POR 15 is the latest and best rust reformer, IMO and many other reviewers. Local NAPA auto stores stock it as well. A little pricey but well worth it.
Oh chemical pollutants I definitely recall - I was born in Camp Lejeune, where the USMC knowingly pumped a severely contaminated water supply to residents for years. Both my parents died of cancers attributable to the chemicals in that water a long time ago, I'm surprised it hasn't hit me . . . yet. On the other hand . . . salt is, you know, salt. Other than high blood pressure from ingesting too much I'm not aware of salt being considered a dangerous chemical to humans. Yes it is terrible for plants and overly saline water isn't going to be good for wildlife that needs fresh water but it's a tradeoff between that and having roads actually function. In the grand scheme of things the pollutants spewed out by the vehicles on those roads do way more damage than the salt put on those roads.
The killer eventually is in seams and where dirt accumulates - anywhere water is held against the steel reducing likelihood of evaporation. That is for longer term owners - people like me who tend to hang onto vehicles like grim death, lol.
I am now a big fan of oil or related sprays that some forum members in this thread have suggested, applied seasonally or even more often, depending on conditions. Why? Because parts of the underbody and frame of my CJ-7 have rusted extensively. Except for the areas that were sprayed with oil due to leaking gaskets on my transmission and tcase. Those areas while dirty, are mostly like the day they left the factory.
If I had things to do over, I would have regularly coated the frame inside and out, and the underbody as well, with some oily type spray. I don't know the properties of the rust proofing you mentioned offered from the factory. I've read in the past that certain types of rust proofing and in particular sound proofing, can actually exacerbate rust, down the road if/when they lose adhesion and allow water to get under them.
That is interesting - definitely going to look into those products you mentioned. Maybe a similar product was Waxoyl? It used to be quite popular in the old Land Rover community. People would spray the inside and other areas of the steel frame rails. A poor mans solution was a more frequent spraying of diesel fuel on the undercarriage. Not sure how well that worked. You could end up with a bloody mess with sticky oil product and debris sticking to that, but would be better than rust all over.
Rustproofing applies a coating with built-in anticorrosion chemicals. Chevrolet has a two layer process. It looks like a layer of paint.The inner layer is grey and the outer layer is black. It's time to do some touch up if you see gray showing through the black outer layer. This process has been great over the last 10 years on my Chevy Pickups. I am going to see if my local Chevy dealer would be willing to apply it to my JLUR.
Soundproofing is usually a thicker, almost asphalt type layer. In my opinion, it accelerates corrosion up here in the Northern states where a lot of salt is used in the winter. The layer can come partially loose without completely coming off. The gap then fills with salt water and speeds up corrosion. My only vehicle to ever had this done, a Mazda, rusted out within five years. So much so that the outer sheet metal could be holed by rapping your fist on it.
Update: Just checked with my Chevy dealer. The rustproofing they used as mentioned above is called Road Armor. It came with a 10 year warranty. They changed to another rustproofing brand with a 'lifetime' warranty. But the new process is a single layer so it will be more difficult to check on which areas need touch-ups. The door inner panels get sprayed with a rust proofing 'waxy' coating, to keep the window and door lock mechanisms from getting jammed.
Door panels are infamous in Minnesota for rusting out. The weather seals do not stop water from dripping from the glass down into the door interior. And if you don't clean out the drain holes on the bottom of the door...water (and salt) sits in the cavity and quickly eats through the door. My sister didn't clean the drain holes on her car and the doors actually sloshed when I swung them.
The dealer I am thinking about going through says they dont rustproof or recommend it. They just protect vehicle with something called glass Sheid. I have always had my cars rusptoofed so a little confused.
I don't think your dealer knows the difference between rustproofing and undercoating. Undercoating is a method of mainly soundproofing the underbody of the vehicle. It is usually a fairly thick tar-like substance. The problem with undercoating is that it does not adhere well. The soft layer tends to peel away. It then leaves a gap between itself and the body. Salt water can then move into the gap and doesn't drain or wash away well. This causes accelerated corrosion.
Rustproofing usually consists of a much thinner, more liquid coating. It generally has a hardness similar to paint. It usually doesn't peel off. But It can wear off from being hit by sand and gravel so it needs to be touched up once in a while.
It is generally better not to have anything applied to the underbody if your only choice is undercoating.
Some people use a salt-removal chemical spray or even an oil based coating for short-term protection.
What kind of rustproofing do you get? No undercoating?
I had Line-X rustproofing applied. The inner cavity of the doors are sprayed with a 'wax' type anti-corrosion spray. A true rust-proofing in the doors would gum up the locks and the window mechanisms. Line-X does offer an 'undercoating' option...but the manager agreed that the undercoating was really sound-proofing, and the warranty is much shorter.
On the other hand...I checked with several 'luxury' dealers and they offer 'electronic anti-galvanic rust proofing'. Problem is that more than one study has shown that the system is essentially worthless. It costs about $1,000 but the electronic parts wholesale for about 11 bucks. And the system needs a 'sacrificial' anode (similar to the zinc anodes one might find on steel boats and outboard motors), which is not installed on cars.
Best advice...if you are going to add more rust protection than what Jeep provides...go with 'rustproofing' rather than 'undercoating' from whatever company.
There's a Great Poll and thread on rustproofing here:
I am worried about the same thing. I just got a new JL, traded out my 2009 4dr JK and rust was an issue with it for sure. I live in the northeast and winters here are tragic! The rust was pretty bad by year 2 even though It was supposed to have the undercoat protector. I started noticing it in places. I tried to be pretty good about going to the touchless car wash and getting it sprayed underneath after mudding around but I also worried about spraying up into the underbelly because I've heard that doing this can muck things up down there if you're too rough with the sprayer?
@DanW maybe I'll try your method and see how goes with the JL.
Use this inside the frame cavities, rocker boxes etc, comes with flexible wand.
Seam seal the underside floors with this, where the floor panels overlap, leave lowest point of the seam open so any moisture can drain.
Paint everything with the encapsulator and chasis black epoxy paint.
I use 1 coat rust Encapsulator and two coats chasis black.
Finally topcoat with this stuff
I shoot it on the floors.
Use fluid film in the lower doors, hatch, hood cavities, inside rear wheel wells.
only draw back is the FF will leach out every time it gets hot but shows it creaps.