Question on Measuring Shocks + Lift

[HighCountryJLU]

So I have a 2021 Sport S Unlimited Diesel. I got the springs from a Diesel Rubicon, and I also have some spacer lift that I’m going to be using. I have a steel bumper with winch up front that is causing about 1.5” of sag on the stock suspension.

My plan is to put on the Rubicon springs, plus an inch of spacer in the rear and two inches of spacer out front. This should raise me up two inches in the back and three inches up front, but accounting for the sag, it’ll actually only be one and a half inches up front.

Am I correct when ordering shocks that when they say 0-1.5” of lift, they’re referring to the amount of lift from a stock Sport? Meaning that I don’t have to subtract anything from measurement since I don’t have a Rubicon?

Also, I’m sure my lift won’t work out to perfectly exactly two inches in the rear or one and a half inches in the front. So when ordering shocks (I’m looking at 8100’s), they’re listed as either 0-1.5” or 2-3”. Is it better to under-estimate or over-estimate (meaning is it better to have slightly too short or slightly too long of shocks)?

Thanks for the guidance in advance!

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[Ranger2992]

I have a 2021 Rubicon Unlimited Diesel as well. For my first 6 months, I ran a 2 inch spacer lift. It worked fine, but I recommend getting steel flat fenders so it can flex on the trail without rubbing. Now to your lift method. Spacers are great, or you can just replace the springs. On the diesel, the regular Rubicon springs will sag. The diesel engine an extra 400 pounds and the winch and bumper just adds to that. The stock JLRUD springs are heavy duty to support the extra weight. My suggestion would be to do a spring swap and buy the MetalCloack heavy duty, TeraFlex HD, or the Rock Crawler HD. Going this way, you will only need to get extended sway bar links.

Finally, your shock question. You will need to match the lift height. Most shocks will let you know the range of lift it fits. For example, 1-3, 3-5, 4-6, etc. The other way you can insure you have the perfect shock is to measure eye to eye collapsed and fully extended. This method will help you get the right up and down travel for off road articulation. I hope this helped.

 

[HighCountryJLU]

Spacers are great, or you can just replace the springs. On the diesel, the regular Rubicon springs will sag. The diesel engine an extra 400 pounds and the winch and bumper just adds to that. The stock JLRUD springs are heavy duty to support the extra weight.

The springs are from a JLURD, so they should be a decent starting point at least. I already own the parts (springs and spacers), so I'll be running these for at least a while.

Finally, your shock question. You will need to match the lift height. Most shocks will let you know the range of lift it fits. For example, 1-3, 3-5, 4-6, etc.

This is where I'm looking to confirm - when they say 0", do they mean stock Sport? Or do some refer to 0" as stock Rubicon? Specifically for the BILSTEIN B8 8100's, is 0" bone stock Sport? And if I'm in the 1.75" area of lift, would I be best served with the 0-1.5" or 2-3" shocks?

 

[Steampunk]

Hey!
Your best bet is to do actual measurements (eye to eye) front and rear of your current situation and get shocks from the compressed /extended length table for the shocks you want. Leave a bit more of the travel for extension (droop) and less for compression (60%/40% aprox)
For example...say you have 23" eye to eye static....get shocks that are aprox 20"-28" compressed/extended.

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