Question abt upgrade steering system

[Baothanh252]

Hello guys, i just got my 2020 rubicon on 35s and saw it has falcon stabilizer. But when driving on freeway its kinda shaking and handling not really comfy. I know its jeep and its not build for comfy road trip. but at least i want a comfy drive 1.5hr daily commute. Plus I plan to get 2.5" lift. So anyone upgrade and experienced please give me idea/advices to upgrade before i go to any shops and they rip me off. Appreciate any help.

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[YBABRAT]

From what I gather on issues... ball joints and steering knuckle can be a factor. Did you check to see if steering gear is aluminum or iron. There is a factory upgrade to an iron steering gear. A magnet will tell. The knuckle if aluminum may wear and elongate the mounting holes for ball joints, if off loading heavily. Factory ball joints and oem replacements will start to wear sooner under off road usage. Those are the areas to look at.

 

[Baothanh252]

From what I gather on issues... ball joints and steering knuckle can be a factor. Did you check to see if steering gear is aluminum or iron. There is a factory upgrade to an iron steering gear. A magnet will tell. The knuckle if aluminum may wear and elongate the mounting holes for ball joints, if off loading heavily. Factory ball joints and oem replacements will start to wear sooner under off road usage. Those are the areas to look at.

i bought it with 40k miles. and think it's all oem. SO as you said. i should upgrade ball joint and steering knuckle as it will help now and when i lift it later ?

 

[YBABRAT]

i bought it with 40k miles. and think it's all oem. SO as you said. i should upgrade ball joint and steering knuckle as it will help now and when i lift it later ?

Yep, smart move. The aftermarket knuckles are forged steel, and are priced a little less than the newer iron factory replacements. If you can afford top of the line ball joints, there is a bonus feature that pays for it's self. They're rebuildable, so a hidden savings with long term use. I plan on doing the above... but at a later time. The ball joints were replaced about 15k ago by original owner, under service to restore alignment. Tracking is like new... so no abuse seen on my end at 84.5k. Probably will be around 100k when I do the upgrades.

 

[Baothanh252]

Yep, smart move. The aftermarket knuckles are forged steel, and are priced a little less than the newer iron factory replacements. If you can afford top of the line ball joints, there is a bonus feature that pays for it's self. They're rebuildable, so a hidden savings with long term use. I plan on doing the above... but at a later time. The ball joints were replaced about 15k ago by original owner, under service to restore alignment. Tracking is like new... so no abuse seen on my end at 84.5k. Probably will be around 100k when I do the upgrades.

do u have brand to share ? thank you

 

[Mudduck]

do u have brand to share ? thank you

Ball joints: most will probably recommend Metal cloak or Dynatrac, but they are $600 plus for a set. I went with Tereflex Heavy Duty for $299.
As for the knuckles, IDK man.... I haven't heard too much on the stock aluminum giving many problems unless Off roaded regularly and roughly, and I'm not talking dirt/forest roads. Thats $1000 for the Mojave upgrade or the Reids Racing. A lot of coin to throw at an area there may not be an issue.

Its got 40k on it. Id start by Balancing and rotating the tires. Alignment, Caster correction via longer/Adjustable front lowers. Trac bar bushings and retorque the suspension. Then ball joints if those are original/No service records to say otherwise. Start with the cheap and free DIY, then move on to the money.

Id get it sorted in its current state before lifting. That way you know if its a lift/Install issue.

 

[JINO]

Go under the jeep and do an inspection.
Once a while, ill go under it with a torque wrench and tighten things. There was a thread that showed how many lbs for each thing.
You can also mark them with a paint marker to see if they move after time.

My 2021 had a few loose nuts at about 80k miles.

 

[Baothanh252]

Ball joints: most will probably recommend Metal cloak or Dynatrac, but they are $600 plus for a set. I went with Tereflex Heavy Duty for $299.
As for the knuckles, IDK man.... I haven't heard too much on the stock aluminum giving many problems unless Off roaded regularly and roughly, and I'm not talking dirt/forest roads. Thats $1000 for the Mojave upgrade or the Reids Racing. A lot of coin to throw at an area there may not be an issue.

Its got 40k on it. Id start by Balancing and rotating the tires. Alignment, Caster correction via longer/Adjustable front lowers. Trac bar bushings and retorque the suspension. Then ball joints if those are original/No service records to say otherwise. Start with the cheap and free DIY, then move on to the money.

Id get it sorted in its current state before lifting. That way you know if its a lift/Install issue.

Thank you for helpfull infors

 

[CowboysFan]

Hello guys, i just got my 2020 rubicon on 35s and saw it has falcon stabilizer. But when driving on freeway its kinda shaking and handling not really comfy. I know its jeep and its not build for comfy road trip. but at least i want a comfy drive 1.5hr daily commute. Plus I plan to get 2.5" lift. So anyone upgrade and experienced please give me idea/advices to upgrade before i go to any shops and they rip me off. Appreciate any help.

Dynatrac lift w Fox Shocks and Steering Stabilizer

 

[PT's19Rubi]

When I bought my '19 Rubi 2dr 62k miles, it wandered around more than I thought it should. I checked the stock steering gear by watching the input shaft and pitman arm while someone rocked the slop in the steering wheel. There was quite a bit of input shaft movement with no pitman arm movement. After many tries, was able to get the adjuster locknut to free up and allow adjusting. Adjusting the gear to remove most play and adding a little more toe in has almost completely cured the wandering.

 

[UncleArt]

A couple of other things to think about: What is your tire pressure? Should be much lower than the door jam label. Most people run around 30psi -ish. Also factory caster is typically around 4.5°. Not very much. When you’re shopping for lifts, you should consider adjustable lower control arms; so you can get your caster around 6.5°. It will make a big difference.

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