My speaker upgrades + amp install

[ValorSolo]

Items Used:
2 x Rockford Fosgate P132, Punch 3.5" Full Range Coaxial Speakers 40W	$96.18
2 x Rockford Fosgate R165X3 6.5" 90W 3 Way Car Audio Coaxial Speakers	$72.65
2 x Rockford Fosgate R169X3 Prime 6x9” 3 Way Full Range Coaxial Car Speakers	$69.44
1 x METRA 72-7902 98-Up Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Hyundai Speaker Harness	$17.44
2 x Rockville SS8P 400w 8" Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer	$213.89
2 x PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converters	$28.05
1 x Copper 0/4 Gauge to 4/8 Gauge 60 Amp Mini ANL 2 Way Fuse Holder Distribution Block	$19.24
1 x Metra Brands Active LOC T-Harness - 2011-2023 Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge, RAM	$48.11
1 x 25'- 4 Gauge Red Power Wire	$21.35
1 x MB Quart JE1-116 6-1/2" dash speaker enclosures for select Jeep Wrangler JL and Gladiator vehicles	$96.29
1 x MB Quart JE1-169SB 6"x9" rear soundbar speaker adapter kit for select Jeep Wrangler JL and Gladiator vehicles	$64.19
2 x 10ft, Gold-Plated 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male Stereo Audio Cable	$17.10
Notes:
The Metra OEM Speaker Harness were included with MB Quart JE1-116 and JE1-169SB.
The additional Metra 72-7902 are for the 3.5" top corner dash speakers.
I also purchased some Female Spade Connectors because the Metra cables didn't fit the speakers.
Rockford Fosgate has wider terminals (both + and -) on the speakers than most popular brands.
The 3.5" P132 speakers are slightly larger than most other brands and don't quite fit the Jeep.
But I mounted them at an angle, aiming them towards the seats and was able to secure them.
The grills are plenty high enough to accomodate this mounting position.
Optionally, I thought about using only one PAC SNI-35 LOC and a set of RCA Y-Cable splitter to save about $10.
But since the Metra LOC T-Harness has both front and rear channels, I decided to use seperate LOC for each.
So one SS8P is run off the front LOC and the other is run off the rear LOC.
Installation:
First, I remove the front seats to make mounting the subwoofers and running the cables much easier.
I removed trim and carpet, tucked the cables and reinstalled trim and carpet as I followed the steps below.
I ran the 4 gauge power wire from a 60 amp fuse holder directly from the battery, leaving the fuse out for the moment.
I routed it through the grommet under the passenger seat to the 60 amp 2-way fuse.
From there I ran separate leads to each subwoofer. And grounded each to the existing bolts with the wires provided with the Subwoofers.
I connected the T-Harness from the factory plug to the back of the head unit and then routed the wires for the LOCs behind the kick panel.
I connected the LOC's to the T-Harness and connected the audio cables.
Then I routed the audio cables down the left side of the center console. One to each subwoofer.
And the remote wire was run from the distribution box and routed with the power wire through the grommet under the passenger seat and split to go to each subwoofer.
Before mounting the subwoofers, I made all the necessary connections, installed the fuse and tested for functionality.
Next, I mounted the subwoofers with the connection panel towards the front to protect the connections from damage.
There's very little room for rear passenger's feet, even without subwoofers under the seat. They will be stepped on.
Once that was done, I double checked all connections, installed the head unit and the front seats. Mission complete.
Pictures in the next post below.

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[ValorSolo]

This setup sounds amazing. Plenty of bass.

 

[azjl#3]

I recommend using some form of cable loom wrap to protect that high amp capable battery supply wire.

 

[ValorSolo]

I recommend using some form of cable loom wrap to protect that high amp capable battery supply wire.

It's not true 4 awg. It's "4 gauge" cheap stuff. About the size of 8 awg, but with really thick insulation.

 

[GATORB8]

It's not true 4 awg. It's "4 gauge" cheap stuff. About the size of 8 awg, but with really thick insulation.

I'd agree with Scott, cheap wire insulation tends to degrade over time and isn't great at temp/abrasion resistance. If you don't like loom, consider TESA tape or the newer mesh sheathing.

I'd also either adjust or cover the copper showing on the input side of your primary fuse holder:

May as well swap 20 amp fuses for the distribution block, looks like the Rockvilles pull 15, and 60 is a lot for the dual ~12 AWG running after.

 

[ValorSolo]

I'd agree with Scott, cheap wire insulation tends to degrade over time and isn't great at temp/abrasion resistance. If you don't like loom, consider TESA tape or the newer mesh sheathing.

I'd also either adjust or cover the copper showing on the input side of your primary fuse holder:

May as well swap 20 amp fuses for the distribution block, looks like the Rockvilles pull 15, and 60 is a lot for the dual ~12 AWG running after.

Those 60 amp fuses came with the kits. My local store was out of replacements.
But yes, 60 amps is way overkill for this system. I'll get them swapped out soon.
Also yes, I'm going to fix the connection above. I'll be mounting the fuse holder.
Once I figure out where I want to put it. This was all for photos and testing.

For anyone looking for a budget friendly upgrade for a 2-door, these are great.
I probably should have only installed one Rockville and it would have done fine.
There is a tremendous amount of bass for the size and price of these subwoofers.

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