Multiple Codes 500 miles after replacing rockers/ lifters and camshaft.

[Mandalorian]

Long Story....
I replaced my lifters/ rockers and intake camshaft on the bank 1 side about 500 miles ago. Over a year ago I replaced my clutch and broke a wire going to my neutral safety switch which caused the ESS light to come on and ever since the jeep does not know what gear it is so the reverse lights/ rear camera do not come on when I put it in reverse. That's the history.

The problem. Last week when travelling up a steady incline the ESS goes off and I could feel a loss in power. I was in 4th and downshifted the 3rd where it felt as if the power had returned as I crested the slight incline and drove the jeep to my destination maybe 10 miles and turned it off. When I came back out and turned it over the ESS light was back on and drove home with no issues. Fast forward to yesterday and I was driving out of town and the first steady incline I hit again the ESS light cut off and I felt the loss of power. This time I was in 5th and down shifted to 4th where I felt a slight return in power. I continued on my trip which was a ~2 hr drive. For the rest of the trip I was unable to go above 70mph even when in 5th going downhill. I made most of the drive in 4th at 3200-3500rpm to keep it around 70mph. Steady inclines still caused an issue sometimes having downshift to 3rd. We stayed at our location and returned today. Todays drive started with a steeper incline leaving the river and again the ESS light goes off/ loss of power but this time the check engine light comes on. I drove the rest of the way home mostly downhill and didn't have many moments where I could feel the loss of power. I had the codes scanned on my way home and got P219A/ P000A/ P105C/ P0456. I listed the codes and parts I could find below.

The big question is because it threw so many codes at once is it most likely the ECM or could the neutral safety sensor switch not working finally catching up to me or is actually one of the many cheaper pieces that has gone bad by coincidence

Codes w/ definitions and fixes:

P219A

Bank 1 Air-Fuel Ratio Imbalance

The definition of code P219A is “Bank 1 Air-Fuel Ratio Imbalance.” This code indicates that the powertrain control module (PCM) or engine control module (ECM) has detected that the cylinder in Bank 1 has an air-fuel ratio outside the manufacturer's specifications.

Mass Air Flow Sensor - A faulty mass airflow sensor will cause problems similar to low compression or low vacuum, and will also show symptoms similar to when your vehicle has low fuel pressure from a faulty fuel pump. Thus, replace damaged/faulty MAF sensor today! PART NOT FOUND

Engine Control Module - There can be some engine performance issues due to faulty engine control module. If the ECM fails or has any problems it can lead to performance issues with the vehicle like misfires, hesitation, loss of power, and sometimes even decreased fuel economy. MOPAR FACTORY DIRECT Engine Controller Module - Mopar (68330909AA) $171.36

Oxygen Sensor - An oxygen sensor plays a vital role in the fuel delivery system and air to fuel ratio mixing functions. Without this sensor proper combustion of fuel cannot take place, thus causing performance issues. Also, the exhaust system will not be able to detect the emissions properly if this sensor becomes inactive, resulting in increased emissions from the exhaust. Thus replace faulty oxygen sensor today! OXYGEN SENSOR (68224424AA) $54.19

Fluid Pump - If the fluid pump is physically damaged, it can result in leakage, loss of pressure and harsh shifting. Thus, the fluid pump must be replaced, if found damaged. Buy new fluid pump from us now! PART NOT FOUND

Powertrain Control Module - PCM stands for powertrain control module. It is a car part, a control unit which is utilized on motor vehicles. It is generally a combined control unit, consisting of the engine control unit (ECU) and the transmission control unit (TCU). PART NOT FOUND

Fuel Injector - Affected fuel injectors can cause reduced performance and throttle response. It can also affect the fuel economy and affect the engine emission. Thus, replace faulty fuel injector now! Fuel Injector - Mopar (5281427AA) $32.25

Electronic Control Unit - If your automobile's check engine light remains on constantly, and never goes off, there's a good chance that your vehicle has a damaged electronic control unit. There are a lot of reasons why a car's check engine light will remain on. The most common reason is a defective ECU. PART NOT FOUND




P000A

The P000A OBD diagnostic error code indicates that there is an issue with the car's 'A' camshaft position, particularly in Bank 1, and shows that there is a slow response. This is a generic powertrain domestic trouble code for cars equipped with variable valve or cam timing.

• Some of the issues that could trigger the code include a malfunctioning camshaft position sensor, a bad oil control valve, and a faulty variable valve timing (VVT) actuator. OIL CONTROL VALVE (5047787AC)$92.50 CAMSHAFT SENSOR (5149141AF) $51.19

P105C

P105c is "intake valve stuck in low lift position". Caused by: VVL solenoid failure. rocker arm lock pin broken/missing. There are four Variable Valve Lift (VVL) Solenoids that control the operation of the Intake Rocker Arms for all six cylinders

Cause:
VVL SOLENOID STUCK OPEN ALLOWING OIL PRESSURE TO ONE OR MORE ROCKER ARM
ROCKER ARM LOCK PIN BROKEN/MISSING
ROCKER ARM IMPROPERLY INSTALLED/INCORRECT CLEARANCE BETWEEN A ROCKER ARM AND THE HIGH LIFT (CENTER) CAMSHAFT LOBE
EXCESSIVE WEAR ON A HIGH LIFT (CENTER) CAMSHAFT LOBE
WORN ROCKER ARM


P0456

P0456 there is a small leak detected.

This codes comes and goes a few times each year.

Sponsored

 

[58Willys]

The first thing to do is separate your batteries (if you have an aux) and load test batteries. Check ground connections. If batteries are bad, replace, clear codes and see if codes return. Many times when multiple codes pop up, it’s a voltage issue. Start there and see what happens.

 

[mwilk012]

It sounds like your repair was insufficient, and you have an oil pressure problem. Both the VVL and VVT are malfunctioning. The air fuel ratio code is due to a mechanical fault. Check compression.
There is no MAF sensor.

 

[Mandalorian]

The first thing to do is separate your batteries (if you have an aux) and load test batteries. Check ground connections. If batteries are bad, replace, clear codes and see if codes return. Many times when multiple codes pop up, it’s a voltage issue. Start there and see what happens.

Not a battery issue it was tested

 

[Mandalorian]

It sounds like your repair was insufficient, and you have an oil pressure problem. Both the VVL and VVT are malfunctioning. The air fuel ratio code is due to a mechanical fault. Check compression.
There is no MAF sensor.

I’ll be checking the VVT and VVL tonight since they are easy to get too. Any suggestions on what to look for?

 

[58Willys]

Not a battery issue it was tested

Always good to eliminate that as an issue. Did you perform a cam position sensor re-learn?

 

[Spank]

The first thing to do is separate your batteries (if you have an aux) and load test batteries. Check ground connections. If batteries are bad, replace, clear codes and see if codes return. Many times when multiple codes pop up, it’s a voltage issue. Start there and see what happens.

This is a certainly good idea for general electrical gremlins, but these are very specific codes related to previous work done in this area.

 

[Mandalorian]

Always good to eliminate that as an issue. Did you perform a cam position sensor re-learn?

No I have not. Not even after I replaced the camshaft. I’ll Google the procedure unless you are familiar with it and could tell me how to do it

 

[58Willys]

No I have not. Not even after I replaced the camshaft. I’ll Google the procedure unless you are familiar with it and could tell me how to do it

You will need a scan/diag tool with cam position relearn feature. If you have that tool, locate that feature and follow on screen prompts. Can’t guarantee this will fix it, but worth a try.

 

[Mandalorian]

I’ll be checking the VVT and VVL tonight since they are easy to get too. Any suggestions on what to look for?

The front VVL

I’ll be checking the VVT and VVL tonight since they are easy to get too. Any suggestions on what to look for?

The front VVL had what looked like oil resting on top of it but no oil on engine cover itself. I cleaned it up and used a multimeter to test it along with the power going to it. All good. I attempted to check the VVT but I couldn’t get the leads deep enough to check the sensor. Power going to it is good. I did notice the plug on the top VVT doesn’t snap into place so I taped it down. Reset the codes. 2 trips out and so far no lose of power. Hopefully it is something that simple

 

[mwilk012]

The front VVL

The front VVL had what looked like oil resting on top of it but no oil on engine cover itself. I cleaned it up and used a multimeter to test it along with the power going to it. All good. I attempted to check the VVT but I couldn’t get the leads deep enough to check the sensor. Power going to it is good. I did notice the plug on the top VVT doesn’t snap into place so I taped it down. Reset the codes. 2 trips out and so far no lose of power. Hopefully it is something that simple

I’ll be checking the VVT and VVL tonight since they are easy to get too. Any suggestions on what to look for?

Remove the solenoid and check for internal metallic contamination

 

[Mandalorian]

Remove the solenoid and check for internal metallic contamination

I removed the VVL and it is functioning properly no metallic contamination. The VVT was not removed but I will double check it

 

[mwilk012]

I removed the VVL and it is functioning properly no metallic contamination. The VVT was not removed but I will double check it

When you say VVT, what are you talking about? VVT means variable valve timing. Are you referring to the camshaft timing actuator on the front cover? If so, no point in removing that one, you can't really see anything on it.

What is your indicated oil pressure at idle at Normal Operating Temp?

 

[Mandalorian]

Yes camshaft timing actuator. I can check the oil pressure tomorrow

 

[Mandalorian]

When you say VVT, what are you talking about? VVT means variable valve timing. Are you referring to the camshaft timing actuator on the front cover? If so, no point in removing that one, you can't really see anything on it.

What is your indicated oil pressure at idle at Normal Operating Temp?

Monitored the oil pressure all week. At idle it was always around 30. 28 was the lowest and 33 was the highest. No change when I lost power

oil temp were mostly around 210 with 233 being the highest and dropping into the 190s after losing power

one of the fuel injectors started ticking on the bank one side so those 3 will be swapped out once the parts come in. I’m also going to swap the camshaft position sensor as someone said that is what caused their jeep to lose power anytime they went above 4K rpm.

Sponsored