More lift for 37's?

[kapk22]

I currently have the Mopar 2" lift with Fox shocks on my 2021 JLUR. The lift has been on for a couple of years now and around 15k miles or so. The tires are 37x13.50 Nitto Mud Grapplers. Since I added adjustable control arms in the rear and centered the axle, my tires hit the rear plastic liner when I go over big bumps. I am pretty sure the springs have settled quite a bit since install. If I remember correctly, I ended up with closer to 3" of lift originally.

My question is, should I replace the coil springs with 2.5" Claytons or Metal Cloaks? I am also wondering how much more lift either one of those options would actually give me.

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[zouch]

37" KM3s on my Willys just *barely* touch the rear edge of the fender liner on the right rear at full flex. it's plastic and moves anyway, so it's a non-issue.
this is w/ Mopar "2-inch" lift, stock rear control arms & Hi-Line Fenders.

you left out a fair bit of pertinent detail, so it's not clear what your solution might be.
FWIW, the MPP lift on my Diesel brought it up over 4" in the front initially, but less than 3" at the rear; i'm sure it's settled a tad over the last 30K miles.

 

[Themistocles]

I currently have the Mopar 2" lift with Fox shocks on my 2021 JLUR. The lift has been on for a couple of years now and around 15k miles or so. The tires are 37x13.50 Nitto Mud Grapplers. Since I added adjustable control arms in the rear and centered the axle, my tires hit the rear plastic liner when I go over big bumps. I am pretty sure the springs have settled quite a bit since install. If I remember correctly, I ended up with closer to 3" of lift originally.

My question is, should I replace the coil springs with 2.5" Claytons or Metal Cloaks? I am also wondering how much more lift either one of those options would actually give me.

I have the Clayton 2.5 on mine and just put on 37s (take a look at my build thread if you want to see pics and fitment). I also have fender liners removed and aftermarket inner fenders. Since putting 37s on I have yet to get mine on a ramp, but last time I had it on one (when I had 35s) we measured everything and the best we could tell I had enough room for 37s (by about 1/4 inch) with no additional bump stop or added spring length. At full compression full turn, even with the 2.5" I would not have cleared factory inner fenders or fender liners with 37s.

I am not sure what your use model is, but for me when I do use mine off road, I use it pretty hard. With 37s I would not want anything lower than the Clayton 2.5".

 

[GATORB8]

I currently have the Mopar 2" lift with Fox shocks on my 2021 JLUR. The lift has been on for a couple of years now and around 15k miles or so. The tires are 37x13.50 Nitto Mud Grapplers. Since I added adjustable control arms in the rear and centered the axle, my tires hit the rear plastic liner when I go over big bumps. I am pretty sure the springs have settled quite a bit since install. If I remember correctly, I ended up with closer to 3" of lift originally.

My question is, should I replace the coil springs with 2.5" Claytons or Metal Cloaks? I am also wondering how much more lift either one of those options would actually give me.

What wheels?

If you're flexing into it, you can just add a little bump if you want to stop it. If you're bottoming out flat into it, that sounds odd on street.

 

[kapk22]

37" KM3s on my Willys just *barely* touch the rear edge of the fender liner on the right rear at full flex. it's plastic and moves anyway, so it's a non-issue.
this is w/ Mopar "2-inch" lift, stock rear control arms & Hi-Line Fenders.

you left out a fair bit of pertinent detail, so it's not clear what your solution might be.
FWIW, the MPP lift on my Diesel brought it up over 4" in the front initially, but less than 3" at the rear; i'm sure it's settled a tad over the last 30K miles.

Mine does have the hi line fenders and hits the rear plastic portion of the inner liner. There is a small rectangle plastic piece at the bottom of the liner where it hits. I tried heating it up and molding it out of the way, that didn't work. I am considering just removing that particular piece. The other thought I had was adding a slightly taller bump stop. Again, this only started happening after I moved the rear wheels back with the adjustable control arms. It did not hit when I initially had the fixed arms from the Mopar kit.

On a side note, when I replaced the front lower control arms from RC to Clayton, my 37s rub at full lock against the arms. This isn't a huge deal for me, as I am just careful not to fully lock the steering out.

To clarify a little more, the rear rubs pretty bad at full flex. Last year I tried packing 12 bags of cement in the rear and quickly realized the inner liners were sitting on the tires. I had to remove four of them to be able to move the Jeep. Maybe bumpstops would be the better route?

I thought about the 3.5" springs, but I am thinking I would have to change a bunch of other stuff (shocks etc.) and run the risk of vibration.

If I could confirm the Metal Cloak coils would bring it up enough to completely clear the 37s, not settle over time, or require a different shock, I might look further into going that route.

** If you look at the third picture close, you can see where the tire is hitting the plastic.

 

[kapk22]

What wheels?

If you're flexing into it, you can just add a little bump if you want to stop it. If you're bottoming out flat into it, that sounds odd on street.

Fuel Blitz 20x9 and I think the offset is 1 with 5.09 back spacing. Both rear tires hit when I go over a big bump/hump or dip in a road fast (40 mph or more). There is a dip in the road close to my house that causes it when I go over 40. It also happens if I turn into a parking lot too fast when there is enough incline. See the third picture in my last post. When I just took those pics, I realized the liner is quite a bit closer than I thought.

** I think I might just start by taking that small plastic piece off. It might even look better.

 

[GATORB8]

Mine does have the hi line fenders and hits the rear plastic portion of the inner liner. There is a small rectangle plastic piece at the bottom of the liner where it hits. I tried heating it up and molding it out of the way, that didn't work. I am considering just removing that particular piece. The other thought I had was adding a slightly taller bump stop. Again, this only started happening after I moved the rear wheels back with the adjustable control arms. It did not hit when I initially had the fixed arms from the Mopar kit.

On a side note, when I replaced the front lower control arms from RC to Clayton, my 37s rub at full lock against the arms. This isn't a huge deal for me, as I am just careful not to fully lock the steering out.

To clarify a little more, the rear rubs pretty bad at full flex. Last year I tried packing 12 bags of cement in the rear and quickly realized the inner liners were sitting on the tires. I had to remove four of them to be able to move the Jeep. Maybe bumpstops would be the better route?

I thought about the 3.5" springs, but I am thinking I would have to change a bunch of other stuff (shocks etc.) and run the risk of vibration.

If I could confirm the Metal Cloak coils would bring it up enough to completely clear the 37s, not settle over time, or require a different shock, I might look further into going that route.

** If you look at the third picture close, you can see where the tire is hitting the plastic.

You'll likely need bump regardless if you want to stop hitting the fenders. MC has a super easy way to do this with their rear Durospring jounces, it will add about 3/4" bump in 5 minutes and make your jounce a little more progressive.

I don't have stock bumpers or fenders, so I'm having a hard time remembering the lower piece. I think it's just a closeout piece you could remove. You'll just get more mud in the bumper.

 

[AcesandEights]

Why do you care if it rubs?

 

[Zandcwhite]

Lift height doesn't determine if tires rub, bump stops do. If it's just the hump in the plastic liner I'd heat and reform it or trim it. If you're rubbing on something you can't easily trim/re-shape/remove you need more bump stop. Springs determine ride height which determines up travel before you hit your bump stops and down travel before you reach the limit of your shocks. A 10" spring would still have rubbing on 37s if the bump stops were stock (assuming you weren't compressed in to coil bind). You could run 37s at stock height with enough bump stop without rubbing (although you'd be into your bump stops over the slightest bump unless you had high clearance inner fenders/fenders etc.) The bump stop height should be set to stop rubbing and keep from bottoming out shocks not the spring height.

 

[ROK HEMI]

If you intend to do any significant off Roading, I would go straight to the 3 1/2 inch lift. I put the metalcloak 2 1/2 inch lift on initially on my 392 XR and got significant tire rubbing even though the XR rims have more offset. I immediately switch to the 3 1/2 inch metalcloak and added a 1 inch wheel spacer and remove the plastic bump behind the rear wheel as discussed earlier, and my vehicle drives very nicely on the street and it's a pretty capable off Roader. As others have mentioned, new shocks will also be part of what you will need, but you will be very happy in the end.

 

[ROK HEMI]

I am not a big fan of limiting articulation with bump stops. These vehicles have limited articulation already, because the bump stops are so aggressive. Lift it up a little more and let everything flex.

 

[kapk22]

Lift height doesn't determine if tires rub, bump stops do. If it's just the hump in the plastic liner I'd heat and reform it or trim it. If you're rubbing on something you can't easily trim/re-shape/remove you need more bump stop. Springs determine ride height which determines up travel before you hit your bump stops and down travel before you reach the limit of your shocks. A 10" spring would still have rubbing on 37s if the bump stops were stock (assuming you weren't compressed in to coil bind). You could run 37s at stock height with enough bump stop without rubbing (although you'd be into your bump stops over the slightest bump unless you had high clearance inner fenders/fenders etc.) The bump stop height should be set to stop rubbing and keep from bottoming out shocks not the spring height.

so even if I were to go to a 4.5" Metal Cloak Gamechanger the 37s would still rub with the same bumpstops that came in the mopar kit?

 

[kapk22]

If you intend to do any significant off Roading, I would go straight to the 3 1/2 inch lift. I put the metalcloak 2 1/2 inch lift on initially on my 392 XR and got significant tire rubbing even though the XR rims have more offset. I immediately switch to the 3 1/2 inch metalcloak and added a 1 inch wheel spacer and remove the plastic bump behind the rear wheel as discussed earlier, and my vehicle drives very nicely on the street and it's a pretty capable off Roader. As others have mentioned, new shocks will also be part of what you will need, but you will be very happy in the end.

SH$T!!! I have some saving up to do. If I am correct, I will need those MC bump stops, 3.5" coils and shocks...

 

[ROK HEMI]

SH$T!!! I have some saving up to do. If I am correct, I will need those MC bump stops, 3.5" coils and shocks...

You will need more than the 3 1/2 inch coil's, you will need their control arms as well. You do not have to get their bump stops, but they are pretty nice and fairly inexpensive.

 

[kapk22]

You will need more than the 3 1/2 inch coil's, you will need their control arms as well. You do not have to get their bump stops, but they are pretty nice and fairly inexpensive.

I have all eight Clayton adjustable arms now. Would those work?

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