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maximum voltage on dash readout

WranglerMan

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Not exactly. Current is measured for only the battery to which the IBS is attached. Most IBS calculations rely on current (A) data. The IBS does measure parameters that are effectively the same for both connected batteries, but for all intents and purposes it's only tracking one battery.

Also, the Genesis relay/solenoid potentially causes the IBS to not see any starter load, which likely affects its resistance calculation (I suspect the Genesis ignition wire accessory fixes this starter load "problem").
Yes the Genesis wire accessory automatically connects the two batteries as one on startup I believe but I don't have that, the Gen 3 sys that they offer gives you (3) options on how they connect and I have the Gen 2.
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THAW

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Yes the Genesis wire accessory automatically connects the two batteries as one on startup I believe but I don't have that, the Gen 3 sys that they offer gives you (3) options on how they connect and I have the Gen 2.
The Genesis kits are great (I have their DIY battery tray). I don't think the IBS setup on them causes any significant issue, I only mentioned it because your dash voltage might show slightly nonstandard behavior because of it.
 
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WranglerMan

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The Genesis kits are great (I have their DIY battery tray). I don't think the IBS setup on them causes any significant issue, I only mentioned it because your dash voltage might show slightly nonstandard behavior because of it.
I have tried several things with the IBS, I swapped it to the main crank battery, turned it off in JSCAN and even disconnected it, the JEEP did not like it disconnected 🤣 as it threw a code so I just moved it back to the aux as I noticed no difference in the IBS behavior except when disconnected.

For the most part the batteries connect after the 2 minutes as I rarely put them on a charger, I was using a Odyssey 20 amp on a regular basis but after chatting with another member here that's familiar with AGM design he advised the Odyssey had a pretty aggressive charging profile and recommended a NOCO charger and I have that two.

My first set of Full River batteries lasted 4.5 years so with these new ones I'm charging them less and using a NOCO 5 for monthly refresh charges as its a softer charge profile and from my research and talking to several folks charging AGM’s is best done low and slow.
 

THAW

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My first set of Full River batteries lasted 4.5 years so with these new ones I'm charging them less and using a NOCO 5 for monthly refresh charges as its a softer charge profile and from my research and talking to several folks charging AGM’s is best done low and slow.
Hmm. Full River recommends a .2C charging rate, and to not exceed .35C. For a 64 Ah battery, that'd equate to 12.8A (not to exceed 22.4A). If you're charging the batteries in parallel, you have a 128 Ah bank that'd call for a 25.6A charger.

My understanding is charging at a too low current can damage the battery. But it really depends on how you're using the charger; if your alternator is mostly handling bulk charging and you're attaching the NOCO when the batteries are at high SOC, the charger rating won't matter much.
 

WranglerMan

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Hmm. Full River recommends a .2C charging rate, and to not exceed .35C. For a 64 Ah battery, that'd equate to 12.8A (not to exceed 22.4A). If you're charging the batteries in parallel, you have a 128 Ah bank that'd call for a 25.6A charger.

My understanding is charging at a too low current can damage the battery. But it really depends on how you're using the charger; if your alternator is mostly handling bulk charging and you're attaching the NOCO when the batteries are at high SOC, the charger rating won't matter much.
I have conversed with several ppl on this including a engineer on this board that has designed AGM batteries including the design folks at Full River and they all conveyed that there preference is the NOCO 10 or NOCO 5 over the Odyssey 20.

They looked at the charge profile of both and advised that the Odyssey 20 has a pretty hefty conditioning charge prior to the float charge and with the low internal resistance can cause problems if used frequently, they said it’s ok to use it occasionally when the batteries get depleted but for normal routine topoffs it’s better to use the NOCO as it’s a slower more controlled maintainer that can be used monthly if needed.

I’m sure I was using the Odyssey to frequently and cooked the batteries and this caused a shorter life cycle.
 

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Ironhorse

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For newer Jeeps I was told this is normal. The computer is now the voltage regulator and there are many variables. We have a new 2024 and our dealer told us it was fine. If the voltage goes too high, it will flag a fault and a message
 

jadmt

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when my 2024 is cold like today it was 5°F it does go up to 14.9-15.0V and has since I bought it. never stays up that high for long but my buddy's 2024 does the same so not too worried about it.
 

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What's your Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) data on voltage and temperature that provides insight on set JL charging parameters? Elsewhere on this forum, and now again, you've touted the benefits of using Jscan for reading data and analyzing battery/electrical subjects, but looking at your prior posts I can't find a contribution from you of any actual data from actual use of a JL. Without data from multiple users it's virtually impossible to separate what's normal and acceptable from what's bad equipment or bad programming.
JScan allows users to view IBS SOC percentage, obviating the need for "insight on set JL charging [routine] parameters".

For those who want to dive deeper, JScan exposes IBS current, voltage, and temperature (the metrics used to program AGM charging). One can view actual charging current in real-time for whatever voltage and temperature conditions are present (at the battery). Interpreting raw IBS data doesn't require multiple-user aggregation, just basic understanding of interrelation between charging variables.
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