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Is it possible to run different length axles?

yotajeeper

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Hello all it’s my first post. Also first time jeeper coming over from the yota world (hence the username)

So I see that the Rubis have 2 inch wider axles than the sport and Sahara. Just got me a sahara for a very good price so I’d like to start building it up. Depending on future finances I’m thinking either a rubi axle or a Ultimate 44 up front. Assume I swapped in a longer length axle up front would it be possible to run spacers in the rear and have the rig be functional?
For the record I have the D35 but not so paranoid about it busting I just rather get at least the front taken care of first thing

Thanks
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jessedacri

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Hello all it’s my first post. Also first time jeeper coming over from the yota world (hence the username)

So I see that the Rubis have 2 inch wider axles than the sport and Sahara. Just got me a sahara for a very good price so I’d like to start building it up. Depending on future finances I’m thinking either a rubi axle or a Ultimate 44 up front. Assume I swapped in a longer length axle up front would it be possible to run spacers in the rear and have the rig be functional?
For the record I have the D35 but not so paranoid about it busting I just rather get at least the front taken care of first thing

Thanks

I'd wait for someone with more experience on this but I would think running a rubi length in the front and a standard D44 in the back would be fine, the only thing you'd want to change is the gearing so that both axles match. Rubi axle's got 4.10 and the Sahara 3.45.

Also I think you're relatively safe running the D35 unless you're trying to wheel it hard on 37s. They're tougher in the JLs.
 
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yotajeeper

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I'd wait for someone with more experience on this but I would think running a rubi length in the front and a standard D44 in the back would be fine, the only thing you'd want to change is the gearing so that both axles match. Rubi axle's got 4.10 and the Sahara 3.45.

Also I think you're relatively safe running the D35 unless you're trying to wheel it hard on 37s. They're tougher in the JLs.
Fully aware of the regear. For budget purposes I think 4.10s on 35s would be perfect. That way would only have to regear the rear and keep the front as is.
Haven’t seen any other posts on this topic. But thanks for the input
 

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Fully aware of the regear. For budget purposes I think 4.10s on 35s would be perfect. That way would only have to regear the rear and keep the front as is.
Haven’t seen any other posts on this topic. But thanks for the input
Should not have any serious issues, other than the track will look Funny.
 

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Arterius2

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Hello all it’s my first post. Also first time jeeper coming over from the yota world (hence the username)

So I see that the Rubis have 2 inch wider axles than the sport and Sahara. Just got me a sahara for a very good price so I’d like to start building it up. Depending on future finances I’m thinking either a rubi axle or a Ultimate 44 up front. Assume I swapped in a longer length axle up front would it be possible to run spacers in the rear and have the rig be functional?
For the record I have the D35 but not so paranoid about it busting I just rather get at least the front taken care of first thing

Thanks
Even though you said you got the Sahara for a good price, but for the cost you are dumping right now onto the Sahara, not sure why you didn’t just get a Rubicon instead and deal much less headaches. The axle swap and regearing plus labor itself probably brings your Sahara to Rubicon pricing and you are still missing rear locker, 4:1 transfer case, electronic sway bar disconnect, high tuck fenders and etc.

FYI my Sahara runs on 35s (stock axles, stock gearing, no wheel spacers) just fine without doing any of that.

675A71C2-FE59-4519-BC1F-096EED076B68.jpeg
 
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yotajeeper

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Even though you said you got the Sahara for a good price, but for the cost you are dumping right now onto the Sahara, not sure why you didn’t just get a Rubicon instead and deal much less headaches. The axle swap and regearing plus labor itself probably brings your Sahara to Rubicon pricing and you are still missing rear locker, 4:1 transfer case, electronic sway bar disconnect, high tuck fenders and etc.

FYI my Sahara runs on 35s (stock axles, stock gearing, no wheel spacers) just fine without doing any of that.

675A71C2-FE59-4519-BC1F-096EED076B68.jpeg
I live in California where a color matched rubicon automatic goes for 50k and up. Even now dealers want 53k for them, with taxes its 58k. For me the color match was imperative to have as I cant stand that black top. Ive seen a few used rubis going for 45k with 20k miles. The cost of the rubi axles could be around 3500 (found a rear for 1800 brand new). The transfer case can wait to be honest I have the 2.0 turbo i played with it on the dirt and works fine. I have a good group of buddies to help with the axle swap. As for manually disconnecting thats not an issue for me as ive been doing that for years with the yota. Trust me if price wasnt an issue id get a rubi off the bat but my income is varible (im self employed). Some months I make 5k some months 4 times that. I like to keep my monthly payments low it just helps me sleep better at night. When the big months come is when i splurge on parts. Just the other day a guy in my jeep group sold 5 tires and wheels 35s BFGs for $550.00. On May 18th a rubi front sold for $1200. I waited 2 years to get a JL as I wanted one when they first came out. With rona the prices plunged and when hertz filed bk I grabbed one of their fleet units 2700 miles with the color I wanted color matched hard top for an absurdly low price.

As for your set up looks great I just want to come out locked front and rear from the jump. My old rig had duel lockers and handled most of our tough local trails pretty well. Still havent decided which route im gonna go but defintely going to pull the trigger on the rear rubi axle as the price i got is a no brainer. As for the front.....time will tell ahha
 

INCRHULK

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Even though you said you got the Sahara for a good price, but for the cost you are dumping right now onto the Sahara, not sure why you didn’t just get a Rubicon instead and deal much less headaches. The axle swap and regearing plus labor itself probably brings your Sahara to Rubicon pricing and you are still missing rear locker, 4:1 transfer case, electronic sway bar disconnect, high tuck fenders and etc.

FYI my Sahara runs on 35s (stock axles, stock gearing, no wheel spacers) just fine without doing any of that.

Jeep Wrangler JL Is it possible to run different length axles? 675A71C2-FE59-4519-BC1F-096EED076B68
What size tire do you have on there? I thought the stock 18” rim could only hold a 33”? I am jealous of you being able to run logging trails and such in BC.
 

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What size tire do you have on there? I thought the stock 18” rim could only hold a 33”? I am jealous of you being able to run logging trails and such in BC.
They are 35”, 285/75/18 Duratracs to be exact. Special ordered from Canadian Tire when they were on sale for $300 per tire.
Whereabouts in Canada are you?
 

INCRHULK

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They are 35”, 285/75/18 Duratracs to be exact. Special ordered from Canadian Tire when they were on sale for $300 per tire.
Whereabouts in Canada are you?
GTA - was born on the island (Langford) and grew up in Edmonton.
 

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OEM vehicles have had different width axles for decades. All the old Chevy 4x4s had wider front axles...
 
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yotajeeper

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OEM vehicles have had different width axles for decades. All the old Chevy 4x4s had wider front axles...
Right. So nothing wrong with throwing in a 1 inch wheel spacer to get them match closely enough
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