Hyperflashing

[4xnaz]

My 2018 JLU Rubicon has the LED package from the factory. I removed my factory turn signals and DRL from the front fenders so I could get more clearance for the tires, using Artec Industries front fender chop kit. The kit has optional bolt light LEDs, which I purchased, one to replace the side marker light and one to replace the turn signal light.

The white wire w/brown stripe powers my side marker and the white wire w/green stripe powers my turn signal light. I now have 2 additional wires that aren't connected to anything, a white wire w/yellow stripe and a yellow wire w/brown stripe.

With my turn signals activated, they flash at a normal rate on the outside, however the signal lights on the dash hyperflash. But with my hazard lights on, both interior indicators as well as the exterior lights flash normally.

So I bought the Diode Dynamics resistors to see if that would correct the issue. Wired them up just as it says...using white wire w/green stripe from the turn signal lights and there wasn't any change from before, without the resistors. Anybody else have the factory LED package and remove their factory DRL/turn signals and replace with other LED lights having the same issue?

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[TTEChris]

I also have the same issue. I purchased the resistors, and switched from LED to halogen signals with my Tazer. I havent got around to installing the resistors, but I hope that takes care of the issue. It's more of an annoyance than anything since outside everything works like it should.

 

[4xnaz]

I also have the same issue. I purchased the resistors, and switched from LED to halogen signals with my Tazer. I havent got around to installing the resistors, but I hope that takes care of the issue. It's more of an annoyance than anything since outside everything works like it should.

Unfortunately, I have the Tazer Lite, and it doesn't have that option to choose between led or halogen lights.

 

[rkyle]

My 2018 JLU Rubicon has the LED package from the factory. I removed my factory turn signals and DRL from the front fenders so I could get more clearance for the tires, using Artec Industries front fender chop kit. The kit has optional bolt light LEDs, which I purchased, one to replace the side marker light and one to replace the turn signal light.

The white wire w/brown stripe powers my side marker and the white wire w/green stripe powers my turn signal light. I now have 2 additional wires that aren't connected to anything, a white wire w/yellow stripe and a yellow wire w/brown stripe.

With my turn signals activated, they flash at a normal rate on the outside, however the signal lights on the dash hyperflash. But with my hazard lights on, both interior indicators as well as the exterior lights flash normally.

So I bought the Diode Dynamics resistors to see if that would correct the issue. Wired them up just as it says...using white wire w/green stripe from the turn signal lights and there wasn't any change from before, without the resistors. Anybody else have the factory LED package and remove their factory DRL/turn signals and replace with other LED lights having the same issue?

I have halogen lights on my rubi. Was given some LED fender light takeoffs. They plug right in, but I get a hyper flash and then it tells me my signal is out. I’m curious if a resistor will fix this issue as well.

 

[4xnaz]

I have halogen lights on my rubi. Was given some LED fender light takeoffs. They plug right in, but I get a hyper flash and then it tells me my signal is out. I’m curious if a resistor will fix this issue as well.

I believe that the resistors will help you going from halogen to LED. But I'm baffled why my LED to LED switch is giving me the errors. I understand that my daytime running light wire is being unused and I'm only using the blinker wire and side marker light wire....and maybe that has something to do with it??? I have no idea.

 

[Cohutec]

Solved!!

So, the LED package JL is not looking for the resistance of a bulb to determine if it is "burned out", because LED's have so little resistance. Instead the computer is looking for a special signal that is generated by the OEM light.
The good news is, Quake LED has figured it out and they have a solution available for us!
I have the Road Armor fender flares and they came with accent lights that are dual branded Road Armor powered by Quake LED.
It's a no cutting plug and play module that makes the computer happy
I can't tell what's inside because it's weather sealed with epoxy, but it works.
If I disconnect the Quake LED light I get hyperflash and the bulb burned out warning on the dash after about 20 seconds. Plug them back in and within the same amount of time the hyperflash is gone as well as the warning.

 

[EricSting]

OP, have you solved the issue?

I pulled the trigger on some more expensive LEDs (like I should have in the first place). I'm experiencing the same problem and attempted to get a resistance value from the LEDs I used however, I could not get an accurate reading from the junk meter I have at home (might be able to test with one at work tomorrow). I don't think the outcome will be satisfactory by adding in resistors, though. They will make the lights dimmer but it's possible they'll eliminate the hyper flash inside. (just a maybe)

I might get froggy and tear apart the factory LEDs to find out what the electrical circuit looks like.

I'm in the electrical craft...just mostly deal with things in the kv range and hundreds of amps, not 12v and mA. This is fun for me.

 

[4xnaz]

I haven't fixed my issue yet but it looks like Cohutec's response above has a solution. I am waiting on a new kit that I ordered from American Adventure Lab that will replace my Artec Industries fender chop light kit. It is a plug and play installation that includes a daytime running light and should give the same signal the computer needs to not register an error. Fingers are crossed and as soon as I get them, I'll update with the results.

 

[Jabberwock]

I haven't fixed my issue yet but it looks like Cohutec's response above has a solution. I am waiting on a new kit that I ordered from American Adventure Lab that will replace my Artec Industries fender chop light kit. It is a plug and play installation that includes a daytime running light and should give the same signal the computer needs to not register an error. Fingers are crossed and as soon as I get them, I'll update with the results.

Looks like they are released. Saw them on a recent LiteBrite video. These are nice looking so I'll probably be running them also.
https://americanadventurelab.com/pr...ine-fender-brace-with-daytime-running-lights/

 

[4xnaz]

Looks like they are released. Saw them on a recent LiteBrite video. These are nice looking so I'll probably be running them also.
https://americanadventurelab.com/pr...ine-fender-brace-with-daytime-running-lights/

Git confirmation my kit was shipped. Should have it real soon!!

 

[4xnaz]

Looks like they are released. Saw them on a recent LiteBrite video. These are nice looking so I'll probably be running them also.
https://americanadventurelab.com/pr...ine-fender-brace-with-daytime-running-lights/

Installed my kit today. It DOES NOT fix the hyperflashing blinker lights from the dash. And I still get the error message that I have a blinker light out. However the lights on the exterior all work correctly.

Honest install opinion of the American Lab High Line Fender Lights is a very simple plug and play install. However I bought my JL with the LED light package and noticed that the plug supplied by the kit has only a 4 wire plug where my plug from the JL has a 5 wire connection. See pic below of the comparison.

The fit and looks of this kit is outstanding. However, the Artec Industries kit that I replaced had a bolt light on the side of the fender that would secure the fender to a mounting point and would not allow the fender to move. This American Adventure Lab kit doesnt have a secure mounting point on the outside of the fender. The fender just sits on top of the kit and will vibrate with airflow during driving conditions. I need to find a way to secure the fender to the kit to avoid that.

Overall, I'm glad I got my LED driving lights back, the sequential amber blinker is amazing, the install was simple, BUT I still get the hyperflash inside and error message and the fender needs to be secured to the kit better.

 

[EgGreg]

The wiring pin orientation may not be correct. I am not sure if just moving pins around would solve it.

As seen in your picture, looking at the front of the connector, number the positions 1-6 top to bottom.

Number one is not present in the new harness but is in OEM. This is a ground wire. Obviously another wire is also ground or nothing would work. But I don’t know if the bcm likes it or not.

Number six is not present in the new harness but is on the OEM and that’s the small parking light signal. Maybe the bcm is detecting an open circuit... I’m not sure how that would show and could explain the hyper flash on the dash. I don’t know, just trying to help

 

[4xnaz]

The wiring pin orientation may not be correct. I am not sure if just moving pins around would solve it.

As seen in your picture, looking at the front of the connector, number the positions 1-6 top to bottom.

Number one is not present in the new harness but is in OEM. This is a ground wire. Obviously another wire is also ground or nothing would work. But I don’t know if the bcm likes it or not.

Number six is not present in the new harness but is on the OEM and that’s the small parking light signal. Maybe the bcm is detecting an open circuit... I’m not sure how that would show and could explain the hyper flash on the dash. I don’t know, just trying to help

Yeah, not an electrical genius here by any means, but just comparing them side by side, shows an open circuit somewhere. I'm not 100% certain, but don't the pin connections of non-led JL's only have a 4 wire connection and not the 5 wire like the LED option ones? I can live with the dash hyperflash, but knowing if there was a way to correct it, would bring glitter and rainbows back into my life!

 

[EgGreg]

the 4-wire JL sport have the same pins for position 1 & 6

I’m wondering if the open white & red wire (park light) is the issue

 

[Jabberwock]

Installed my kit today. It DOES NOT fix the hyperflashing blinker lights from the dash. And I still get the error message that I have a blinker light out. However the lights on the exterior all work correctly.

Honest install opinion of the American Lab High Line Fender Lights is a very simple plug and play install. However I bought my JL with the LED light package and noticed that the plug supplied by the kit has only a 4 wire plug where my plug from the JL has a 5 wire connection. See pic below of the comparison.

The fit and looks of this kit is outstanding. However, the Artec Industries kit that I replaced had a bolt light on the side of the fender that would secure the fender to a mounting point and would not allow the fender to move. This American Adventure Lab kit doesnt have a secure mounting point on the outside of the fender. The fender just sits on top of the kit and will vibrate with airflow during driving conditions. I need to find a way to secure the fender to the kit to avoid that.

Overall, I'm glad I got my LED driving lights back, the sequential amber blinker is amazing, the install was simple, BUT I still get the hyperflash inside and error message and the fender needs to be secured to the kit better.

They hyperflashing would make me crazy. Thanks for sharing so far. Hope someone more electrically inclined than me can help out.

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