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Front Axle, build it or buy it?

kah.mun.rah

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Assuming you start with a Rubicon front axle, which option are you, and why?

A: Pay $3,500 to re-build your front axle with HD ball joints, chromoly axle shafts, re-gear, yoke, and axle truss.

B: Sell your stock axle for $2,500 and then pay the extra $3,500 for an assembled Dynatrac ProRock 44 (or similar other HD axle assembly).
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chevymitchell

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Assuming you start with a Rubicon front axle, which option are you, and why?

A: Pay $3,500 to re-build your front axle with HD ball joints, chromoly axle shafts, re-gear, yoke, and axle truss.

B: Sell your stock axle for $2,500 and then pay the extra $3,500 for an assembled Dynatrac ProRock 44 (or similar other HD axle package).
What size tire?
 

beast40

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Its a tough call for sure. I'm in the same boat and decided to upgrade as needed and then go to a 60. I'm on 37s for the foreseeable future. 39s are a completely different ballgame.

On my TJ I went from the factory D30, to a HP30, to a D44 to a ProRock60. It was an expensive lesson to learn. (Rear was D35 > D44 > HP9" > ProRock60 lol)
 

Some Random Guy

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The pro-rock is a JK R&P, I believe. Dana claims the JL Advantek R&P is stronger. So you might be weakening yourself with that ā€œupgradeā€. Also, I believe it needs a new driveshaft.
Iā€™m looking at Ultimate44 now with 39ā€™s. Re-uses the stock driveshaft. Long term swapping in an ARB locker to reduce time spent locked and hopefully mitigate R&P stress. Iā€™ll also do reid knuckles when I do the swap.
 

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kah.mun.rah

kah.mun.rah

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The pro-rock is a JK R&P, I believe. Dana claims the JL Advantek R&P is stronger. So you might be weakening yourself with that ā€œupgradeā€. Also, I believe it needs a new driveshaft.
Iā€™m looking at Ultimate44 now with 39ā€™s. Re-uses the stock driveshaft. Long term swapping in an ARB locker to reduce time spent locked and hopefully mitigate R&P stress. Iā€™ll also do reid knuckles when I do the swap.
Correct, I think the R&P are still the JK ones in the ProRock 44. I haven't heard which is stronger. The JL ProRock 44 axle housing however has a 3"OD, .5" wall tube and the M220 is 2.75"OD with a .282" wall tube. šŸ‘ on the air lockers and reid knuckles.

Jeep Wrangler JL Front Axle, build it or buy it? 1662152240437
 

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Correct, I think the R&P are still the JK ones in the ProRock 44. I haven't heard which is stronger. The JL ProRock 44 axle housing however has a 3"OD, .5" wall tube and the M220 is 2.75"OD with a .282" wall tube. šŸ‘ on the air lockers and reid knuckles.

Jeep Wrangler JL Front Axle, build it or buy it? 1662152240437
On my computer this time, so the Dana Ultimate44 is about .375" thick tubes (9.5mm). I looked up Dana's material for the advantek R&P, and they say it's "stronger" but rated for the same torque rating. They appear to be using the word "stronger" to mean same capacity, smaller R&P.
Now I need to re-think, lol. $4,500 for the UD44 with the electric locker I don't ultimately want, or $6k+driveshaft for the Prorock44 with ARB locker and thicker tubes.
 

El Zilcho

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Assuming you start with a Rubicon front axle, which option are you, and why?

A: Pay $3,500 to re-build your front axle with HD ball joints, chromoly axle shafts, re-gear, yoke, and axle truss.

B: Sell your stock axle for $2,500 and then pay the extra $3,500 for an assembled Dynatrac ProRock 44 (or similar other HD axle assembly).
You can buy new axle for less than 2500 :)
But I'm going to slowly build my front in similar situation. Not planning to run anything more than 37s.
 
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beast40

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Ditch the factory locker ASAP!
I canā€™t wait to get ARBs back.
 
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kah.mun.rah

kah.mun.rah

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On my computer this time, so the Dana Ultimate44 is about .375" thick tubes (9.5mm). I looked up Dana's material for the advantek R&P, and they say it's "stronger" but rated for the same torque rating. They appear to be using the word "stronger" to mean same capacity, smaller R&P.
Now I need to re-think, lol. $4,500 for the UD44 with the electric locker I don't ultimately want, or $6k+driveshaft for the Prorock44 with ARB locker and thicker tubes.
Maybe the Currie HD60 with 3.5"OD .375" wall with the ARB Air Locker for $6,500 is your option. Hey, it's just money... šŸ¤£
 

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kah.mun.rah

kah.mun.rah

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You can buy new axle for less than 2500 :)
But I'm going to slowly build my front in similar situation. Not planning to run anything more than 37s.
You can? Where are you finding new Rubicon front axle assemblies for less than $2,500?
 

Some Random Guy

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Maybe the Currie HD60 with 3.5"OD .375" wall with the ARB Air Locker for $6,500 is your option. Hey, it's just money... šŸ¤£
Funny, I just looked at Northridge4x4's site and they're out for at least 90 days. I think I'm going to stick with the UD44, I can get it here in a week and it will be plug and play back onto the trails. My jeep projects are competing with a house downpayment right now, we're moving in 6-12 months. My wife is pushing me to spend on the Jeep though, we won't live here again unless we retire out here in 10-15 years. I can't bring myself to do over $10k front and rear though.
 

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You can? Where are you finding new Rubicon front axle assemblies for less than $2,500?
$2,755 MSRP plus tax from a dealer, shouldn't be any freight. Not under $2,500, but also a pretty good deal. It will be in a crate, so it's super easy to get trussed.
Edit: and new, so there is some $value to peace of mind.
 

J0E

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Assuming you start with a Rubicon front axle, which option are you, and why?

A: Pay $3,500 to re-build your front axle with HD ball joints, chromoly axle shafts, re-gear, yoke, and axle truss.

B: Sell your stock axle for $2,500 and then pay the extra $3,500 for an assembled Dynatrac ProRock 44 (or similar other HD axle assembly).
Sell both stock axles for $5K and pay $8.1K for the 40 spline, 73.5" wide DSTrack 70's. (Not counting the $2.1K for air lockers and $1.4K for Adams.)

Jeep Wrangler JL Front Axle, build it or buy it? 1662158276346


Email them, I'll bet they'd sell you just the front.
 

El Zilcho

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