Does a constant 14V mean something’s wrong?

[dccurtis]

I have a 2018 JL and know that the ESS/battery situation is a mess. I’m trying to learn how to diagnose the various components myself to avoid the regular dealer visit every 1 to 2 years.

My Jeep has been in the ”ESS disabled battery charging” state for months. No other problems or dashboard warning lights. Remote start works fine, etc…

I know it’s probably some combination of a failure between the aux battery, main battery, and IBS. I’ve been reading on the forums that people typically are reading 12 to 13 volts on the dash display.

I also read that a constant 14 volts will be sent when something is wrong. Is this true? If so is it ever an IBS failure or is it always the batteries? Thanks for the help!

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[SouthCo]

How often do you drive it and how far are the trips?

 

[dccurtis]

Typical week I'm driving 4 days a week 12 miles (30 min) two times a day. The other 3 days a week about 15 miles (30 minutes total) .

So a little over 100 miles (4-5 hours) a week.

 

[laroo]

I got the same messages and behaviors for 2-3 months and knew one or both of my batteries were dying in my 19. Jeep wouldn't start 2 days before my appointment to get them looked at. A few jumps later, took it to the dealer, they replaced both under warranty. I would bet it's time for at least one new battery for you, especially if they are the original batteries.

 

[TS_JLU]

If your auxillary battery light is coming on, or it's running low, definitely replace it asap.

 

[dccurtis]

thanks everyone. It's not original batteries. I had both batteries replaced 2 years ago under warranty the last time this happened. ESS worked fine for a little over a year and then the "ESS Disabled: Charging" came back...

I hate ESS so on one hand it's nice having it disabled, on the other I don't want to get stranded one day!

I'm going to go ahead and replace the AUX battery and see how it goes, if it doesn't help I'll move on to replace the main battery.

I'm trying to avoid just blindly replacing both batteries every 18-24 months. What's so ironic about this whole thing is that it's supposed to be saving money and fuel but in the end I'm not saving any money with buying batteries constantly and the environmental impact is much much worse. Ok I'm done ranting lol

 

[laroo]

The OEM batteries are just not good. Replace with quality batteries and they will hopefully last longer than 2 years. By the way, that's exactly how long mine lasted.

 

[Billkowski]

Adjacent topic here, I have a 2021 3.6 etorque and had to replace the 12 v battery, I only put about 300 miles a month on it and the battery wasn't getting charged enough and when the charge on it gets low the start/stop won't work because the 48 volt has to charge the 12 volt first(really didn't want to go the trickle charger route). Got a Diehard AGM 950 battery(AGMs charge a little quicker) no issues since. The OEM batteries are just weak.

 

[dccurtis]

Good news, replacing the AUX battery with a Diehard fixed the problem and ESS is working again. I did it the "easy -but still a PITA way" through the fender flare. What was Jeep thinking making something that needs to be replaced so often so difficult to access!

So to answer the question that started this thread, 14+V seems to be perfectly normal. Fingers cross this battery lasts longer than the MOPAR ones! Thanks everyone!

 

[future ocean blue]

My 2018 3.6 has the same issues. Is this only with the 3.6? Does the 2/0 turbo not have this issue?

 

[jaymz]

Adjacent topic here, I have a 2021 3.6 etorque and had to replace the 12 v battery, I only put about 300 miles a month on it and the battery wasn't getting charged enough and when the charge on it gets low the start/stop won't work because the 48 volt has to charge the 12 volt first(really didn't want to go the trickle charger route). Got a Diehard AGM 950 battery(AGMs charge a little quicker) no issues since. The OEM batteries are just weak.

The OEM battery is AGM.

 

[Av8Chuck]

can’t you just disconnect the aux battery?

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Good news, replacing the AUX battery with a Diehard fixed the problem and ESS is working again. I did it the "easy -but still a PITA way" through the fender flare. What was Jeep thinking making something that needs to be replaced so often so difficult to access!

So to answer the question that started this thread, 14+V seems to be perfectly normal. Fingers cross this battery lasts longer than the MOPAR ones! Thanks everyone!

@dccurtis

Actually, constant / always running at 14+ is not the normal... you should not typically see this if you have a dual battery JL/JT with both a healthy Aux and Main battery.

To see 14-14.1 or so and then see a drop to say 13.2 or 13.4, 13.8 and then back up to 14.2 or so is typical.

When you start up the JL say in the morning you will see 14 or so but after driving awhile you should see the 13.2, 13.8 to 14.0+ , up and down, ongoing dance.

IF you do a bunch of short hops to the barbershop then to grocery store, to gas station, etc., where the JL sees little driving time and a bunch of ignition on and off's, yes, you will see 14.0 ish until you drive enough so that the 12v is replenished and the JL gets back to the 13.2, 13.8 to 14.0+, up and down, ongoing dance.

IF the JL sits for a couple of days or more unused, when you do finally run the JL, you will see 14.0+ for a period of time to the 12v replenishes.

Note: After you change out an Aux battery.... after the changeout... say in 3 or days and you see the JL running constant 14.0ish, and maybe you see an EVIC notice, it is indicative that when you fooled with the JL's battery(2) you inadvertently blew a fuse in the High Amp Fuse Array..

Also.... after you changout batter(s) expect weird readouts until IBS has did it's relearn that takes a few days of your using/driving your JL.

.

 

[dccurtis]

My 2018 3.6 has the same issues. Is this only with the 3.6? Does the 2/0 turbo not have this issue?

I remember reading somewhere that the 2.0 only has one battery so it doesn't have this issue.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

If you’re seeing a constant 14v or over, you main battery is probably weak. It will pull voltage from the new aux battery and you will soon be in the same boat.

Pull the cables from the main and charge it. If it takes a full charge, you should see you alternator voltage output numbers drop. If the numbers don't drop, consider replacing that battery with a quality 94R H7, which is the largest battery that will fit in the tray.

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