Destroyed MBZ Sprinter = JLU Rubicon 4xe build

[my_jeep_sucks]

It's named Rattlesnake Creek and has changed a lot since fall of 2019

Thanks for the creek name! Current water levels are about the same as your pic.

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[my_jeep_sucks]

Give Slick Rock 4x4 trail a run on a weekend, you won't be alone. It takes about 4 hours and with 38's you shouldn't have trouble. https://www.google.com/maps/place/Slick+Rock/@38.4451885,-120.0229852,15z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x809757a90e042529:0x22d3777ffd7740c9!8m2!3d38.4451895!4d-120.0126855!16s/g/1tg4x2dl?entry=ttu

Can’t this weekend, but ? hopefully the weekend of 8/26. Think we’ll run Sourgrass and half of Slick Rock on Saturday. We’ll camp before the gauntlet at the creek that exits Lake Alpine. Then on Sunday wrap up Slick Rock and see if we can do Deer Valley.

 

[my_jeep_sucks]

Before Slick Rock I’m looking to get this (@apexdesignsusa (Vendor) CRS)

and ARB pressure control kit installed.

 

[my_jeep_sucks]

I just installed my ARB pressure control kit with the Apex CRS. So nice to not have to worry about monitoring tire pressure while airing up. Basically screw it onto the tire and that's it. I also added the Apex high flow chuck. Airs up from 10 to 37 in just a few minutes (didn't do a timed run). I think the hardest part is getting the chuck on the schrader valve. With the bead lock ring there's not a lot of room to get it screwed on.

You can hear a quick pause at the beginning of the video where the ARB system is checking to see where it is pressure wise.

The system is pretty cool, where you can set it up to be off on start-up, pull up last used preset, or be at max pressure. I've got it set to pull up the last used preset so when I turn on the compressor I can just connect it to my tires and not have to worry about fiddling with my phone. It has a deflate option, that will bring the pressure down to a specific preset, but I don't think I'll use that. I'm guessing it takes a pretty long time. I've got a set of RPVs that allow me to air down each tire in about 20-30 seconds.

I also made my own quick connect inflator with a 1/4 turn check valve. The Apex chuck is open flow so wanted a way to be able to turn it on and off but maintain maximum air flow.

(I did clean up the wires under the compressor)

 

[my_jeep_sucks]

The JL got a friend!!!

And it's a 4x4!

Picked up a one owner 1990 VW Vanagon Westy Syncro for an insane deal from a local guy in Mill Valley. The good; it's a syncro (that's really the only thing I cared about) with a perfect interior and good body work (minus one spot). The bad; it needs a new clutch (not that bad) but also has a big dent on the driver side rear that the PO covered with cloth tape. The cloth tape held moisture against the body work for 10ish years and now there's a nice big rust hole. The AC doesn't work nor does the fridge, but those are normal 33 year old van issues.

I was able to get the van about a mile from my house, but the hills proved too much for the slipping clutch. After giving it a few shots, the clutch totally went out. Had to get it towed a fricking mile. Now I've got a big blue hunk of metal sitting in my driveway!

Got a new clutch kit and, it just so happens, there are replacement body panels for the dent area that I ordered too. Looking forward to digging into a new project that should complement the Jeep well. Also, will be interesting to see how capable this thing is.

 

[Robertyoke]

Next time use a long pry bar under the tire and use the leverage to lift it and your other hand to guide it onto the studs.

Flat shovel works even better.

 

[my_jeep_sucks]

It's been awhile and have a few updates. I recently added a Next Venture Motorsports belly skid system.

I'd have to say it was one of the hardest things I've done from an automotive perspective, ever! It's not like there's much that is specifically hard, but it's more like the longest walk you've ever taken in the hottest desert on earth!!! I'd say the only thing that I've done that was harder was replacing the transmission in my VW Eurovan. I cried doing that. All the other stuff, head gaskets, motor swaps, clutches, trans rebuilds, carb to fuel injection conversions, etc, were way easier. Now I hope I never have to get to anything underneath them.

The pros are no net weight gain and more protection. Oh, and getting rid of all the screechy steel skid plates.

I got to test them out a few weeks ago on Slickrock trail near Arnold, CA. All in all it was a success. I did forget to disconnect my sway bar on the first really hard obstacle, which made for a tippy experience. We camped on the trail, with the plan of doing the gauntlet in the morning and doing Deer Valley in the afternoon. Unfortunately, my buddy developed a bad power steering fluid leak in his JK, which prevented him from being able to turn right. He was able to navigate the last two features by taking the bypasses.

Having never done Deer Valley, I didn't want to do it by myself. So, I headed to Sourgrass trail. I noticed a massive dead spot that went from about 10 to 2 while doing the driving on the highway. So, there was for sure a bit of suspension damage from Slickrock. Sourgrass proved uneventful, other than my 13 year daughter hitting a tree while driving and talking a guy out of taking his Jeep Patriot on the trail.

The fuel skid did dent in a little at the back. The UHMW didn't help me not get high centered.

In diagnosing the suspension, I found a lot of movement on the front track bar at the axle mount. I torqued it back down, but now it abruptly slips and makes a lot of noise. On further examination the hole has ovalized and I'm working on getting a new bracket installed.

 

[GATORB8]

In diagnosing the suspension, I found a lot of movement on the front track bar at the axle mount. I torqued it back down, but now it abruptly slips and makes a lot of noise. On further examination the hole has ovalized and I'm working on getting a new bracket installed.

If you didn't already pull the trigger on the Barnes replacement, I did run across another potential solution. Teraflex makes a "short" track bar relocation bracket retaining the bottom mount drag link that is for 2.5-3.5" lifts.
https://teraflex.com/jl-jt-front-track-bar-axle-bracket-kit-2-5-3-5-lift.html#

Not as good as the Barnes solution, but a quick bolt on.

 

[my_jeep_sucks]

If you didn't already pull the trigger on the Barnes replacement, I did run across another potential solution. Teraflex makes a "short" track bar relocation bracket retaining the bottom mount drag link that is for 2.5-3.5" lifts.
https://teraflex.com/jl-jt-front-track-bar-axle-bracket-kit-2-5-3-5-lift.html#

Not as good as the Barnes solution, but a quick bolt on.

Thanks! I already purchased the Barnes bracket. Working on figuring out how to cut and weld this thing. If it ends up looking like too much of an issue I'll go the Teraflex route or weld on some washers.

 

[my_jeep_sucks]

Got the track bar bracket welded up. Back to handling like a Porsche. Both Barnes brackets I got were not bent up properly. So washers it is.

Also, installed the MC DB3 that I’ve had sitting around for a year and a half. Unbelievable difference in on road handling. Wish I hadn’t waited so long. The Jeep doesn’t wallow as much and it removed a lot of harshness. There’s no delayed roll moment. Curious to see if I get hung up on the trail.

Had to clearance the skid plates a bit to get it to fit. Thankfully aluminum is easy to cut. Also, instructions did not include a hole that needed to be drilled. The drilling was the most annoying part of the install. Just a tip get the leaf blower out so you’re not rolling around in metal shavings.

 

[my_jeep_sucks]

Finally got my ovaled out track bar brackets under control. I added the SteerSmarts steering damper relocation bracket, to get rid of the Fox relocation bolt which appears to be the root of my problem. I also upgraded to 9/16 hardware, which only required drilling out the trackbar bushings. It only removed a small amount of material at the center of each bushing. Back to a nice quiet and comfortable ride.

Run from this bolt!!!!!!!! No idea why the threads are so f-ed up, but that's clearly why it kept loosening up.

I did just order the SteerSmarts sector shaft/chassis track bar reinforcement kit. I'll be getting that on shortly.

 

[GATORB8]

Finally got my ovaled out track bar brackets under control. I added the SteerSmarts steering damper relocation bracket, to get rid of the Fox relocation bolt which appears to be the root of my problem. I also upgraded to 9/16 hardware, which only required drilling out the trackbar bushings. It only removed a small amount of material at the center of each bushing. Back to a nice quiet and comfortable ride.

Run from this bolt!!!!!!!! No idea why the threads are so f-ed up, but that's clearly why it kept loosening up.

I did just order the SteerSmarts sector shaft/chassis track bar reinforcement kit. I'll be getting that on shortly.

I get PTSD just looking at that POS bolt.

You'll like the SS brace. Note, there is an error in the instructions. The SS Sector Shaft nut is a different size than the OEM nut (by a damn mm). IIRC, the listed one is for the new nut, the OEM nut is 1 mm larger. There is an SAE equivalent socket to the larger size that I was able to source at Autozone (confirm, but I think it was 1-13/16). IIRC, the SS nut is 42mm, the OEM nut is 43mm.

 

[my_jeep_sucks]

I get PTSD just looking at that POS bolt.

You'll like the SS brace. Note, there is an error in the instructions. The SS Sector Shaft nut is a different size than the OEM nut (by a damn mm). IIRC, the listed one is for the new nut, the OEM nut is 1 mm larger. There is an SAE equivalent socket to the larger size that I was able to source at Autozone (confirm, but I think it was 1-13/16). IIRC, the SS nut is 42mm, the OEM nut is 43mm.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[my_jeep_sucks]

Hotheads headliner installed with sound assassin sound dampening strips. Pros: quieter ride on the freeway and the stereo sounds way better. Also, I think it looks pretty good. It hasn't been super warm so can't comment on it's insulation properties. Cons: it stinks!!! The off gassing is really bad. At first it wasn't too unpleasant, kinda smelled like coolant. But after a week it has not transitioned to rotten eggs.

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