Check your fuses

[rizej]

@rizej

Even the spares get pushed firmly down. Push those encircled in blue down or they may fall out and be bouncing around. 8-) They will be riding higher so to speak then all the other fuses.

That's a great diagram, thanks. I went out and pushed down on all the fuses and relays and the majority were seated; however, there were about 5 - 8 that definitely seated more after pushing them in fully.

If I'm getting an issue when in 4H (potentially 4L) where the ESS and service electronic stability lights come on is there a particular fuse/group of fuses that I should check?

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[Mantacon]

Had the same issue. Light came on after 800 miles. Went under the hood and sure enough fuses and relays all loose. Pushed down, light has not returned.

 

[traviswalker007]

Heres a dumb question!! does anybody know were the fuse is for the 3rd break light I can not find it on the fuse box? mine stoped working today??

 

[Biscuit]

Heres a dumb question!! does anybody know were the fuse is for the 3rd break light I can not find it on the fuse box? mine stoped working today??

Check the bulb first. I don't think the third light is separately fused anyhow.

 

[traviswalker007]

Check the bulb first. I don't think the third light is separately fused anyhow.

its led??

 

[Rhinebeck01]

@traviswalker007

You are not going to find a dedicated fuse for the 3rd brake light. If it was a fuse that was causing that LED light to be out you would also see other lights out.

If you are going to trouble shoot this issue yourself, start by checking to be sure the connector for the power to the LED light is fully inserted into the base of the 3rd brake light.

Also, look to see if the power wire going to the 3rd brake light is pinched somewhere after it exits the outer side of the tail gate and heads upward to the 3rd brake light..... it may be pinched by the tire carrier itself..

.
Doubtful it is the LED fixture but you can check for power at the connector .... the connector that plugs into the 3rd brake light itself. IF you have power when you step on the brake, the fixture is the issue or the connection as it inserts into the 3rd brake light.

.

 

[Jeepmarkjl]

This question came up in diff thread but no one addressed it. There are two 20a power top fuses, f73 f74. Which means there is wiring to a connection point. One member suspected that wiring termination point was in the block in the cargo area. Which could mean that if you don’t have a power top, there’s two unused 20a wires that could be leveraged for other accessories. Potentially. So how would we figure that out or has someone already? If you’ve got a power top there’s a switch up front to complete the circuit. If you don’t have a power top, would you need to insert a switch wiring (or not) at the block in the back in cargo area. Thoughts?

 

[traviswalker007]

@traviswalker007

You are not going to find a dedicated fuse for the 3rd brake light. If it was a fuse that was causing that LED light to be out you would also see other lights out.

If you are going to trouble shoot this issue yourself, start by checking to be sure the connector for the power to the LED light is fully inserted into the base of the 3rd brake light.

Also, look to see if the power wire going to the 3rd brake light is pinched somewhere after it exits the outer side of the tail gate and heads upward to the 3rd brake light..... it may be pinched by the tire carrier itself..

.
Doubtful it is the LED fixture but you can check for power at the connector .... the connector that plugs into the 3rd brake light itself. IF you have power when you step on the brake, the fixture is the issue or the connection as it inserts into the 3rd brake light.

.

Thanks man!! im looking into this

 

[IPvFletch]

7/18 build date here. Just checked my fuses and almost none of them were fully seated, and some were nowhere near close. Maybe 2 or 3 total were fully seated (except of course the ones I swapped out for my add-a-circuit). I seated every one by hand now and feel confident this is corrected.

What the heck, Jeep!!!

 

[Warpath]

Can we make this a sticky please

 

[NCIC105]

Has anyone checked later to see if they are working loose after pushed in. Just a thought, it may be a design issue and they work themselves loose.

 

[Krondor]

Has anyone checked later to see if they are working loose after pushed in. Just a thought, it may be a design issue and they work themselves loose.

Nothing working loose on mine. They are all snug.

 

[WranglerMan]

Just checked mine yesterday and they are all fine

 

[The_Jason]

ok. couple things here. i went out and gave a little push on all of the socketed devices.

most of them pushed in between .010" and .015" if my aerospace toolmakers fingers still remember what
a RCH (aerospace unit of measurement) felt like. almost NONE were bottomed out.

there is a reason for this, and it's a good one. the panels are stuffed by a robot. it's far faster than a human.
the movement is intentionally limited to not bottom out the device being inserted. it isn't harmful electrically
in any way. you have full contact pressure on the blades.

pushing it in too far would most likely crack the fuse first (not good,) or damage the spring tension on the panel blade clips (worse).

so, they are fine as they are. if you want to seat them further, and it makes you feel good, do it.

now, the real question is this..... where can you find those type of fuses? they are a form factor type W.

type W has two variants, the ones used in the jeep, which are designed to saddle a bus bar, and provide
their own spring tension for connection, and ones designed to seat on a small flat pin.

i have been unable to find the type W with open slots, the ones we need, anywhere.

and i mean anywhere. i bought ones on amazon. wrong type. correct type seems to be avaialble singly
for about $8 each, but nobody has them.

post a link if you know where to find them. i want spares.

I went to the dealer parts department and picked up a spare of each AMP. Hopefully this tip helps

 

[SABLE RHINO]

After reading all the stories about ESS faults and being stranded on the side of the road, a discussion about fuses not being fully seated in the fuse box came up. Easy enough, I'll just trot right on out there and see for myself. Sure enough, at least 80% of the fuses and relays were not fully seated in their sockets. Do yourself a favor and check it out real quick, it doesn't take 5 minutes to do.

Same here hit a pothole and everything shut down completely dead in the water. Checked fuses and relays most were loose. No problems since...

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