Beginning of locker sensor failure?

[chevymitchell]

Why is it sold in a set of 5 ??

There is a tolerance stack between the module and the capacitors in the sensor. It's a matter of finding a sensor with the proper tolerance stack up equivalent to what the module is expecting. There's no way to know that from the outside looking in and without a nerd level of equipment and understanding of the board level components. Much easier to just build a field deployable "kit" that will cover the range of the module -/+ threshold.

Sponsored

 

[Terrymo]

There is a tolerance stack between the module and the capacitors in the sensor. It's a matter of finding a sensor with the proper tolerance stack up equivalent to what the module is expecting. There's no way to know that from the outside looking in and without a nerd level of equipment and understanding of the board level components. Much easier to just build a field deployable "kit" that will cover the range of the module -/+ threshold.

For those of us who need “Locker Position Sensor Module Theory For Dummies” I think he means trial and error. Seriously read the first page of that thread. You’ll be enlightened.

 

[grimmjeeper]

Why is it sold in a set of 5 ??

There is a tolerance stack between the module and the capacitors in the sensor. It's a matter of finding a sensor with the proper tolerance stack up equivalent to what the module is expecting. There's no way to know that from the outside looking in and without a nerd level of equipment and understanding of the board level components. Much easier to just build a field deployable "kit" that will cover the range of the module -/+ threshold.

More simply put, they're all a bit different. One of them will work. It's hard to know before you open up the differential. It's easier for the monkeys at the dealership to just get a set of all 5 and just keep plugging them in until they find the one that works.

 

[LukeDagny]

There is a tolerance stack between the module and the capacitors in the sensor. It's a matter of finding a sensor with the proper tolerance stack up equivalent to what the module is expecting. There's no way to know that from the outside looking in and without a nerd level of equipment and understanding of the board level components. Much easier to just build a field deployable "kit" that will cover the range of the module -/+ threshold.

This seems silly that a mechanic has to test possibly 5 different sensors before getting the right one, but it is what it is.

I bought the set of 5 sensors and only had a simple multi meter. Each had a unique resistance, that varies only a few hundreths of an ohm.

I will be replacing mine once this heat wave ends.

 

[chevymitchell]

This seems silly that a mechanic has to test possibly 5 different sensors before getting the right one, but it is what it is.

I bought the set of 5 sensors and only had a simple multi meter. Each had a unique resistance, that varies only a few hundreths of an ohm.

I will be replacing mine once this heat wave ends.

The replacement sensor design they implemented doesn't have this issue.

Good news though, once you pot the sensor you'll be good to go for a very long time. Outside normal failures, the oil won't be the culprit any longer.

 

[swampflyer]

The replacement sensor design they implemented doesn't have this issue.

Good news though, once you pot the sensor you'll be good to go for a very long time. Outside normal failures, the oil won't be the culprit any longer.

Why don’t they just get the darn sensor out of the oil? Get a contract for Eaton.

 

[chevymitchell]

Why don’t they just get the darn sensor out of the oil? Get a contract for Eaton.

Its purpose is to read the depth of the locker plate. It would need to be right in the housing.

To be fair, the sensor does work and most of them are fine. Its placement isn't the problem. Just poor sealing/design.

Eaton doesn't have an "in-transit" function to worry about. If all that needs to be energized is the magnet, you can do that with the factory locker. Get the mopar harness or one of the by-pass harnesses. Then you don't have to worry about the sensor function.

 

[Terrymo]

This seems silly that a mechanic has to test possibly 5 different sensors before getting the right one, but it is what it is.

I bought the set of 5 sensors and only had a simple multi meter. Each had a unique resistance, that varies only a few hundreths of an ohm.

I will be replacing mine once this heat wave ends.

I potted all 5 of the replacement sensors and got lucky that the first two worked without trial and error. I removed the two original sensors and cleaned and potted them and marked them front and rear. I tested them and they both worked fine, I have basically a set of 5 in reserve with two known to be correct.

 

[Frankenstein2124]

Okay, so with Key on and sensor plugged in and in correct position the blinking blinky light will go out ?
I do have an ohms tester but with my original one bad how to tell which one has the right resistance is gonna be a pain . Please someone tell me I dont have to keep putting the diff cover back on every single time.. I was hoping to just jack up one wheel and rotate the wheel .

 

[swampflyer]

Its purpose is to read the depth of the locker plate. It would need to be right in the housing.

To be fair, the sensor does work and most of them are fine. Its placement isn't the problem. Just poor sealing/design.

Eaton doesn't have an "in-transit" function to worry about. If all that needs to be energized is the magnet, you can do that with the factory locker. Get the mopar harness or one of the by-pass harnesses. Then you don't have to worry about the sensor function.

I understand, thanks. What I don’t understand is why does it not come from the factory with a harness that works as you stated and no idiot lights.

 

[Frankenstein2124]

I potted all 5 of the replacement sensors and got lucky that the first two worked without trial and error. I removed the two original sensors and cleaned and potted them and marked them front and rear. I tested them and they both worked fine, I have basically a set of 5 in reserve with two known to be correct.

Why drill and pot a new sensor ? Especially when this one has lasted 128k miles

 

[chevymitchell]

I understand, thanks. What I don’t understand is why does it not come from the factory with a harness that works as you stated and no idiot lights.

The locker can become bound up mechanically.

The idiot light prevents people from breaking the spider gears or causing other issues with a locker plate partially engaged/disengaged.

 

[chevymitchell]

Why drill and pot a new sensor ? Especially when this one has lasted 128k miles

Mileage and time has no relevance to this failure.

Potting is a preventative measure. Some will fail near immediately, some will last through their designed intent.

 

[Frankenstein2124]

Hopefully i can just keep plugging one after the next until one makes the light go off without having to actually put back in place each time.

 

[Terrymo]

Why drill and pot a new sensor ? Especially when this one has lasted 128k miles

It’s your call. I like to do things preemptively. Mine was beginning to have intermittent issues at 10k miles. Why not pot the new one? It isn’t sealed any better than the old one.i was aware of this thread and decided if I changed my diff oil and cleaned up any metal particles every 2-3k miles it wouldn’t happen to me. I was wrong. YMMV.

Sponsored