Backup camera (spare blocks the view)

[JIMBOX]

That style wheel has TOO MUCH SHROUD around the lug area !

My RUBY/SAHARA has LT285/75Wx16/w Procomp 16x8" wheels/w 4.75 BS and my rear camera is clear view !

You also have to make sure that the SPARE TIE BUMPSTOPS ARE MAKING CONTACT !


Good luck

JIMBO

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[TrailJoy]

That style wheel has TOO MUCH SHROUD around the lug area !

My RUBY/SAHARA has LT285/75Wx16/w Procomp 16x8" wheels/w 4.75 BS and my rear camera is clear view !

You also have to make sure that the SPARE TIE BUMPSTOPS ARE MAKING CONTACT !

I’ll have to upload a picture later, but I did take a look, and they’re definitely NOT making contact (by quite a bit). It’s impossible that they could though because of the offset of the wheel. Why is it important that they touch? Is it the weight of the wheel, or strictly for the camera to be further forward?

Also, you said Rubi/Sahara. You have two Jeeps? The spare tire mount I would imagine are different on the Rubicon as the stocks are bigger, and the Jeep is capable of 35’s without any mods.

And what do you mean by shroud?

 

[flightace47]

Contact with the bump stops is important to prevent the wheel from flexing on the mount as you drive down the road. The “shroud” he is referring to is the effect of the depth of the lug recess for your wheel. Compare to my pics and you’ll see just how much different it is from stock Rubi wheels.

I think your wheel offset prevents solid bump stop contact and the depth of the front face is way off Rubi stock wheels. At this point I’d bet that the Sport and Rubi camera mounts are the same and the issue is with the style of wheel for you entirely.

An extension or camera relocation kit would be the only way to fix unless you want to switch to a different wheel design (closer to stock front face dimensions).

I was hoping that your wheel was not fully placed into the mount but it seems like it’s actually ok. Something the rest of us can keep in mind when we go to upgrade to beadlocks, at least.

 

[Sand Flea]

Moved my camera to the right of the rear 2" receiver hitch.
I needed the center of the spare open to mount a Thule bike carrier.
The bike carrier carries bikes (natch) and sand chairs to the beach in summer.
Works great.

 

[TrailJoy]

Contact with the bump stops is important to prevent the wheel from flexing on the mount as you drive down the road.

Oh boy. This isn’t good.

Sorry it’s sideways. I’m not sure why it turned (it shouldn’t be).

 

[JIMBOX]

Contact with the bump stops is important to prevent the wheel from flexing on the mount as you drive down the road. The “shroud” he is referring to is the effect of the depth of the lug recess for your wheel. Compare to my pics and you’ll see just how much different it is from stock Rubi wheels.

I think your wheel offset prevents solid bump stop contact and the depth of the front face is way off Rubi stock wheels. At this point I’d bet that the Sport and Rubi camera mounts are the same and the issue is with the style of wheel for you entirely.

An extension or camera relocation kit would be the only way to fix unless you want to switch to a different wheel design (closer to stock front face dimensions).

I was hoping that your wheel was not fully placed into the mount but it seems like it’s actually ok. Something the rest of us can keep in mind when we go to upgrade to beadlocks, at least.

Yup--flightace47--nailed it--

I use "ROLLBAR PADDING around my stock SPARETIRE "BUMPSTOPS" and you need those because of VIBRATION/FLEXING/TAILGATE CLOSING, they protect the SPARETIRE MOUNT/BRACKET FROM CRACKING !

Measure the spare installed distance and cut the padding 1/4" longer, secure with zip tie and it fulfills the requirement !

Good luck

JIMBO

 

[TrailJoy]

I use "ROLLBAR PADDING around my stock SPARETIRE "BUMPSTOPS" and you need those because of VIBRATION/FLEXING/TAILGATE CLOSING, they protect the SPARETIRE MOUNT/BRACKET FROM CRACKING !

Measure the spare installed distance and cut the padding 1/4" longer, secure with zip tie and it fulfills the requirement !

Good luck

JIMBO

Thanks!!! Now where to find roll bar padding in Canada... lol

 

[JIMBOX]

Thanks!!! Now where to find roll bar padding in Canada... lol

I think that you can order from JC Whitney, but I don't know (remember) what the minimum is, or any RACING SHOP !

Good luck

JIMBO

 

[psdtime]

Check this link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IDM1OCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works for the wheel gap to the tailgate. I don't have a picture showing it, but I can tell you that I had to trim off the last two ribs on them for my setup, so there is a lot of flexibility on the sizing. Tailgate reinforcement kit came with new ones too, but they weren't ever close to being large enough. These are a bitch to install unless you take a razor to the insert part and make it a little smaller.

View attachment 268831

 

[JIMBOX]

Check this link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IDM1OCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works for the wheel gap to the tailgate. I don't have a picture showing it, but I can tell you that I had to trim off the last two ribs on them for my setup, so there is a lot of flexibility on the sizing. Tailgate reinforcement kit came with new ones too, but they weren't ever close to being large enough. These are a bitch to install unless you take a razor to the insert part and make it a little smaller.

View attachment 268831

Yeah, I uswd those years ago on my JKL's. but

I've read MANY COMPLAINTS about their quality construction in the last couple years, so I didn't even try them this time--could be OK !

W.E.

JIMBO

 

[psdtime]

Jimbo, you could be right. I have only had them for three weeks. They are polyurethane I believe. The have a much larger base than the stock ones, so the surface area is much larger than stock. I'm not sure why they would fail since they are fairly protected from the sun and are being sandwiched against the tailgate.

 

[JIMBOX]

Jimbo, you could be right. I have only had them for three weeks. They are polyurethane I believe. The have a much larger base than the stock ones, so the surface area is much larger than stock. I'm not sure why they would fail since they are fairly protected from the sun and are being sandwiched against the tailgate.

Yeah, complaints have been a spongy/cheezy construction !

Mine --years ago, was GREAT

Time will tell

JIMBO

 

[TrailJoy]

Well it looks like I have some research to do. The lack of clear view camera will have to wait as I go on the hunt for a bump stop. I didn't realize that the tire sat that far out or I would have never chosen those wheels. Obviously the bumper is a fairly easy fix, but it bad for the mount or the hinge to be out like that?? It's for sure harder on the door as the weight is further out...

I'll fix the bump stop, but now I'm concerned about the tire itself!

 

[psdtime]

Jimbo, I actually had the opposite concern. I was afraid that the bump stop was too strong and going to dent the tailgate when I torqued the spare tire. The ones that came with the tailgate reinforcement were especially weak. Again, I've only had them for three weeks, but I think they are up to the task.

 

[JIMBOX]

Jimbo, I actually had the opposite concern. I was afraid that the bump stop was too strong and going to dent the tailgate when I torqued the spare tire. The ones that came with the tailgate reinforcement were especially weak. Again, I've only had them for three weeks, but I think they are up to the task.

Yeah, but remember, the spare tire bumpstops are ONLY FOR VIBRATION-SO YOU DON'T NEED MUCH CONTACT and the physical measurement should be AFTER YOU MOUNT THE SPARE TIRE--

Good luck--I never torque my spare though I use two m14x1,5 lug nuts and one "SPLINE LUG NUT"--that will make it a little harder for a PERP to steal the spare !

JIMBO

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