Alternator voltage

[AusJeepNoob]

Does anyone know how to get the alternator to charge at 14.4V or more? I've fitted a fairly decent amp (Taramps Smart3 Bass) and can't crank it fully because I can only get 13.9v max. It means it's clipping well before I can get max power out of it.

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[lashlee]

Depending on what trim you have, and how you've got the amp set up, the alternator voltage shouldn't really change that much in 0.5v. Most amps use a regulated power supply that should put out the same power regardless of the voltage (as long as it's above 12.2ish volts). An amp will clip if the input gain is not set up in line with the head unit output voltage. Did you use a meter, or an oscilloscope or DD-1 to set up the gain?

 

[AusJeepNoob]

Depending on what trim you have, and how you've got the amp set up, the alternator voltage shouldn't really change that much in 0.5v. Most amps use a regulated power supply that should put out the same power regardless of the voltage (as long as it's above 12.2ish volts). An amp will clip if the input gain is not set up in line with the head unit output voltage. Did you use a meter, or an oscilloscope or DD-1 to set up the gain?

I've got a Rubicon with the high output alternator (240a I think it is). I'm running 1/0 cable from the battery to the amp under the passenger seat so only about 10ft.

SQ amps might have regulated power supplies but most bass amps are unregulated. Taramps actually rates the amp at 14.4v. From the testing videos that I have seen on this amp there can be a few of hundred watts difference just dropping to 14.1v.

I've got the gain set to minimum but haven't checked the output of the HU to check if that is clipping at the level I'm seeing an issue at (31 on the 8.4 with bass set to 0 on the EQ). Maybe the HU output is clipping and I need to turn up the gains on the amp to get more output before HU clip point. The amp has a clip indicator which is what I'm using to see my issue.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

I read that if you disconnect the little connector that plugs to the negative terminal.. the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) then it forces the alternator and the charging system to deliver 14.4V to the batteries all the time... I read that the charging system uses the IBS sensor to optimize the charging of the batteries and prolongs battery life.. I have no idea if permanently disconnecting the IBS will have negative consequences for the batteries / alternator long term... but I know some forum members have done it.

I am curious now.. I am going to disconnect the IBS in the coming days to prove the 14.4V theory.. LOL

 

[lashlee]

I get the regulated versus unregulated, I started competing in SQ in '96, when RF, PPI, Kicker, MTX (I was at world finals in '97 when MTX had the bread truck with the 6' woofer), Orion all were shooting to be the loudest. I was an RF dealer when the power 225.2 would put out 1400 watts when fed 16v (the trick was to feed the remote with 12v so that the amp wouldn't shut down) so I get the advantage of feeding an amp the most, to get the most. I should have worded what I wrote above differently, the amount of change from 14.1ish to 14.4ish isn't worth the effort, in my opinion. You know that an appreciable change in output comes at the doubling of power, which won't happen in a few tenth's of a volt. New cars these days are much more sensitive to changes on the electronics so I would be hesitant to try to "trick" the computer for not a lot of gain.


The last 8.4 that I metered was using a PAC amp pro and clipped at around 34 on the fronts and 32 on the sub so you're right at the edge of maximizing signal. Good luck in whatever you choose!

 

[AusJeepNoob]

I get the regulated versus unregulated, I started competing in SQ in '96, when RF, PPI, Kicker, MTX (I was at world finals in '97 when MTX had the bread truck with the 6' woofer), Orion all were shooting to be the loudest. I was an RF dealer when the power 225.2 would put out 1400 watts when fed 16v (the trick was to feed the remote with 12v so that the amp wouldn't shut down) so I get the advantage of feeding an amp the most, to get the most. I should have worded what I wrote above differently, the amount of change from 14.1ish to 14.4ish isn't worth the effort, in my opinion. You know that an appreciable change in output comes at the doubling of power, which won't happen in a few tenth's of a volt. New cars these days are much more sensitive to changes on the electronics so I would be hesitant to try to "trick" the computer for not a lot of gain.


The last 8.4 that I metered was using a PAC amp pro and clipped at around 34 on the fronts and 32 on the sub so you're right at the edge of maximizing signal. Good luck in whatever you choose!

I still have a PPI A600.2 and PG EQ215ix sitting in my garage and the Kicker R6s and Polk MM3000 tweeters that were originally connected to that amp are now the front stage in my JL.

 

[lashlee]

Shoot yeah!!! I had a EQ215, then stepped up the ix, then up to two EQ230's before swapping over to an Alpine H701. That old gear is killer. I still have the three Xtant amps that I competed with (I finished second in my class at MECA world finals in 2008 with that setup) up on the shelf!! The X1001 needs to be recapped but the 603 and 604 still work!

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