2025 Wrangler Willy's Audio Build (Base System)

[Thill444]

*TLDR version. I swapped out all the speakers for two sets of components, used the Pac module and an amp and a sub and I really happy with the outcome and would do it again.

After about 5 years I am back in a JL Wrangler. We previously owned a pretty basic 2019 JL Wrangler Unlimited Sport (Mojito). The speakers were pretty bad but I didn't want to go to crazy so I just swapped out he 3.5's in the front dash and the soundbar and added some polyfill. It defintely helped.

Then in 2021 we sold the 2019 and got a new 21 Wrangler 4xe which had the Alpine system (which is designed by Alpine for Jeep but not actually Alpine components). It was a nice upgrade over the base system but nothing to write home about.

Like many others I had numerous issues with my 4xe and it honestly felt unsafe to drive. After barely a year I sold it and moved on from owning a Jeep which was sad because I really loved them. The whole family did.

So here I am in a loaded 2025 Willy's 3.6 (loaded but not the audio, it's the base system). I forgot how bad the base system was.

This time I decided to go for it. I am a huge home theater nut and have installed many a car audio system over the years. As I was planning the build I came up with my list of must haves for the build (and yes I am installing this all by myself):

• I knew I wanted matching component speakers vs coaxial design for the dash and soundbar areas.
• I wanted 6.5" woofers with dedicated tweeters. With the dash tweeters so close to the glass I wanted to avoid metallic/aluminum tweeters
• I wanted a more neutral speaker that can take to EQ
• I wanted a dedicated subwoofer. I have a 10" Bazooka style Alpine passive sub I can use temporarily.
• Wanted a 5 channel amp to power everything and I wanted it mounded under a seat.
• I wanted to retain all factory audio controls and chimes
• I did not want to splice any wires, so that many using Jeep OEM connectors
• I want to keep as much storage space in the back as I can, so no massive sub boxes
• I didn't have an endless budget so wanted to pick wisely and save where I can

Here is what I ended up with:

• Two sets of Alpine R-S65C.2 6.5" component speakers. Got these new and almost half off MSRP because the newer gen is out but these check all the boxes for me. Neutral. Take power easily. Smaller crossovers that can be set to +3db, 0db, and -3db. 4ohm load.
• I ordered a Recoil 1800.5 amp to power the speakers and sub. Really great price to performance and these actually put out slightly more than the advertised power before distorting.
• I ordered a refurbished Skar 10" passenger enclosure from the manufacturer. It was quite a bit cheaper refurbished and it integrates with the passenger area so saves space and looks OEM.
• I scored an open box (excellent condition) JL Audio 10" 10W0v3-4 subwoofer for a great price. 4ohm and matches perfectly with AMP RMS.
• I splurged and got a PAC AP4-CH42 that integrates with the base 2024+ Wrangler head unit and they provide all the needed harnesses. No splicing, factory audio controls and chimes, and gives you a nice clean signal our through their Pac module to 6 RCA outputs to the amp.
• Metra JP-1014 speaker pods for the 6.5" knee level woofers. (shop Ebay I bid on new ones and won for much cheaper)
• Metra JP-1019 soundbar adapter kit (shop Ebay for better prices)
• Metal underseat amp bracket off Amazon. Looks identical to the Metra one for cheaper. I like that it elevates the amp off the carpet.
• I head leftover polyfill and sound deadening material from a previous build in my Shelby GT350.

Here is where I currently am at and thoughts. tips, and tricks.

• All speakers are installed in the dash/front and soundbar area. I tested them before the Pac module and amp off the stock head unit power.
• Look, it was a significant improvement with the Alpine R's over the stock speakers. Surprisingly so. Those little 4" woofers in the knee pods are very cheap and limited in output. The dash speakers were also muddy compared to the Alpine R tweeters. I can honestly say this update alone is worth it if you can't afford or don't want to introduce an amp and sub.
• It seems intimidating at first to remove so many trim panels and screws to get to those knee pods. It is not Just watch some videos on Youtube and take your time. Have the right tools. Lay everything our in the order you remove it on a blanket. It is well worth it, I promise you. Those cheap 4" knee pod speakers are a letdown at best.
• Make sure you have a 7mm ratchiting style wrench for several bolts that are tucked in places you can't reach with anything else.
• Make sure you have an angled head for your drill for all those 7mm bolts. I can't imagine doing this by hand lol.
• To fit the 6.5" woofers in the sound bar I had to Dremmel out a few areas of the existing pod. I did this without removing the pod. Watch the videos on YouTube and take your time. I was a little worried about this, but it really was easy. I taped the wiring houses up and away from where I was cutting.
• The seats have Torx 50 bolts and are a pain in the ass (I removed the passenger seat). I ended up using a heat gun to warm them up to loosen the locktite. Go slow, and be careful not to strip the bolts.
• The power cable from the battery through the drivers area is really easy (I used a 1/2" drill bit in the grommet to pull the 4AWG power cable through.
• Surprisingly the worst part for me was trying to fish the Pac harness from the head unit area down to the glove box. I about lost my mind as it is a really tight channel and I spent way too long... Finally I found unhooking most of the connections from the head unit gave me more room for my hands and was able to finally pass the cable.
• The Recoil amp ended up being about an 1" too long once I added cables and had to return it for a NVX1005 5 channel amp. It puts our roughly 120 watts RMS per channel for the speakers and 330 watts RMS for the sub all @ 4ohms.
• By default the Pac module applies some very basic EQ and I found disabling it and using the amp and head unit to set gains and crossover sounded much better. You have to connect the module to a Windows PC, load the Pac software, and disable the setting.
• I am still waiting on the sub enclosure (will be here this weekend) but I had an old Alpine 10" Bazooka style sub I am using for now and it sounds really good.
• This whole thing took time. I soldered and used some butt heat solder connections. I watched lots of videos and took my time. I could do it much faster now, but I did not lose a single screw, or break any clips, etc.

Okay how does it sound?

Wow! I was not expecting it to sound as good as it does. $400 (total)speakers and a $220 amp and a $130 sub should not sound this good in a Wrangler. I spent some time setting crossover and gains and around 20 on the head unit dial it is so loud and clear. Good clean midbass and the sub really rounds it out. I am very happy with this NVX amp. It is loud and clear and I can't really turn the dial past 25 or so as it is really loud. With the top and doors off I am confident I will still hear audio I am very excited for the JL sub, should only get better.

Really I feel like all the time and effort was well worth it and I think getting matching component speakers for the fronts and soundbar really makes a difference. You get a seamless sound and it all matches. The 6.5" woofers are such a big upgrade over the 4's with am amp.

I was so impressed with the NVX amp that I just bought their 6 channel DSP as it was on a crazy sale. I am a big fan of DSP's and planned on adding one down the road but I will see if the NVX is any good. Honestly I had a DSR-1 in my previous car and I really didn't love the results.

I will also say the Alpine R series is damn impressive. I used Morel in my last couple builds and loved them but they were quite a bit more money and I wanted to try the R series as I heard good things. And they really do not disappoint at the price point.

Will be adding pictures... Feel free to ask my anything, I promise I will be honest.

Sponsored

 

[Thill444]

 

[Thill444]

Some pics of the tweeters. I mounted the crossover to the bottom and the fit perfect in the dash. I also wired everting using Metra adapters to connect to all the OEM connectors.

 

[Thill444]

 

[Thill444]

These are all the panels I had to remove to get to those damn pods. It looks worse than it is.

I used sound deadening on the hollow pods and the soundbar.

 

[Thill444]

A pic of the 6.5” Alpine R component vs stock 4”.. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

 

[Prot]

I was wondering if the 12.3” head unit had an optical output? It probably doesn’t but thought I would ask since you just had it apart.

 

[Thill444]

I was wondering if the 12.3” head unit had an optical output? It probably doesn’t but thought I would ask since you just had it apart.

I don’t recall seeing one honestly but I wasn’t looking for it either.

 

[cohocarl]

Nice thread.
Thx for posting Thill.

Sponsored