2.0 turbo longevity questions

[WI_Sarge]

Two specific questions I have for the longevity of this engine. Hoping to keep it more factual if possible. Before my questions, I don’t care at all about performance or MPG, just keeping the engine healthy and long lasting as possible, Im keeping this bitch forever if I can.

1- Does running ethanol free (premium) gas better over regular 87 for the long term health of the engine? The manual states the engine was designed to run 87. Also premium is .8-1.0 more expensive than regular, so that adds up.

2- does the MOPAR CAI help the longevity of the turbo to breath better/take in slightly cooler air? Most of my research says no, it’s not much help.

let’s keep this on topic at least for 3 pages unless you got something really funny.

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[Jbudz511]

From a longevity perspective I'd argue that oil change intervals and type of oil, spark plugs, and other general maintenance items are more important than fuel octane. As long as you're not filling it with shitty, contaminated gas you'll be ok.

Ive probably put 8 tanks of 93 octane thru it in the 31k miles I've owned it (bought with 19k on it) all the rest regular 87 and have had no issues or anything. Gonna pull plugs soon to check condition. There's plenty of threads arguing about octane and it's my understanding that those suggested octane ratings are just that, suggestions. A coworker of mine has a porsche cayenne and he puts exclusively regular in it, has for over 40k miles without issue. The octane is just helping you pull every ounce of performance put of the engine. Again quality is more important here.

As far as CAI goes, some will argue you're decreasing the longevity as those large cone filters allow in more particulate than the standard sealed box/air filter combo. And my buddy killed his JLUD playing in the sand out in CO with no mods bc sand got in the intake (whole other story). Also CAIs aren't really cold air at all, the air in the engine compartment is all relatively warm so really the ONLY benefit you're getting here is the cool sounding whoosh of air.

I'm just YouTube certified tho, so I'd wait for someone else to chime in

 

[Heimkehr]

1- Does running ethanol free (premium) gas better over regular 87 for the long term health of the engine? The manual states the engine was designed to run 87. Also premium is .8-1.0 more expensive than regular, so that adds up.

2- does the MOPAR CAI help the longevity of the turbo to breath better/take in slightly cooler air? Most of my research says no, it’s not much help.

While Premium fuel isn't strictly required for the 2.0T, the Owner's Manual does recommend it for best performance in certain use cases, like towing. The PCM will pull timing as needed when lower octane fuel is used. If the engine ever pings, in any circumstance, increase the fuel octane immediately.

As for E10, I've used it for a good number of years now, across several vehicles. I've not had any issues that could be demonstrably walked back to the corn liquor content of the fuel itself.

Ethanol-free fuel is better, in my view, and I do in fact feed E0 exclusively to my motorcycles and my outdoor power equipment, but that's simply my personal preference. I will say that the Jeep's average fuel mileage improves by at least 1 MPG when I treat it to a fill-up of real gas. This makes sense, since ethanol has less BTUs (i.e., a lower energy content/rating) than does undiluted gasoline.

The factory air intake design already mimics the Mopar CAI kit option, but for the absence of cutting a hole in the pax-side of the hood for the optional exterior grille. I see no reason to spend money on the kit for nominal (if that) gains.

 

[Old Dogger]

As for octane, run what the owners manual suggests.
Change your engine oil on a regular interval, like 5000 miles or less. Take out the MOPAR Extended power train warranty insurance policy. This way, one can sleep at night..

 

[WI_Sarge]

While Premium fuel isn't strictly required for the 2.0T, the Owner's Manual does recommend it for best performance in certain use cases, like towing. The PCM will pull timing as needed when lower octane fuel is used. If the engine ever pings, in any circumstance, increase the fuel octane immediately.

As for E10, I've used it for a good number of years now, across several vehicles. I've not had any issues that could be demonstrably walked back to the corn liquor content of the fuel itself.

Ethanol-free fuel is better, in my view, and I do in fact feed E0 exclusively to my motorcycles and my outdoor power equipment, but that's simply my personal preference. I will say that the Jeep's average fuel mileage improves by at least 1 MPG when I treat it to a fill-up of real gas. This makes sense, since ethanol has less BTUs (i.e., a lower energy content/rating) than does undiluted gasoline.

The factory air intake design already mimics the Mopar CAI kit option, but for the absence of cutting a hole in the pax-side of the hood for the optional exterior grille. I see no reason to spend money on the kit for nominal (if that) gains.

I live in WI which is fairly flat and only hot 3 months of the year. No towing. Would you run 87 in that scenario?

 

[WI_Sarge]

From a longevity perspective I'd argue that oil change intervals and type of oil, spark plugs, and other general maintenance items are more important than fuel octane. As long as you're not filling it with shitty, contaminated gas you'll be ok.

Ive probably put 8 tanks of 93 octane thru it in the 31k miles I've owned it (bought with 19k on it) all the rest regular 87 and have had no issues or anything. Gonna pull plugs soon to check condition. There's plenty of threads arguing about octane and it's my understanding that those suggested octane ratings are just that, suggestions. A coworker of mine has a porsche cayenne and he puts exclusively regular in it, has for over 40k miles without issue. The octane is just helping you pull every ounce of performance put of the engine. Again quality is more important here.

As far as CAI goes, some will argue you're decreasing the longevity as those large cone filters allow in more particulate than the standard sealed box/air filter combo. And my buddy killed his JLUD playing in the sand out in CO with no mods bc sand got in the intake (whole other story). Also CAIs aren't really cold air at all, the air in the engine compartment is all relatively warm so really the ONLY benefit you're getting here is the cool sounding whoosh of air.

I'm just YouTube certified tho, so I'd wait for someone else to chime in

Ive heard and read the same comment about the risk of larger particulates being able to enter. Thinking I’m pretty set with my mind on the CAI.

 

[WI_Sarge]

As for octane, run what the owners manual suggests.
Change your engine oil on a regular interval, like 5000 miles or less. Take out the MOPAR Extended power train warranty insurance policy. This way, one can sleep at night..

Agreed. I did the 1K mile break in oil change and will always do 5k intervals. Im definitely good on sticking to maintenance intervals.

The first 3 days I owned the jeep without the extended warranty, it was nothing but nightmares. Next day i got the mopar 8 year 125k extended warranty(middle package).

 

[Old Dogger]

might be simple like the DC to DC charger.

Full disclosure, my etorque is the devil incarnate.

Agreed. I did the 1K mile break in oil change and will always do 5k intervals. Im definitely good on sticking to maintenance intervals.

The first 3 days I owned the jeep without the extended warranty, it was nothing but nightmares. Next day i got the mopar 8 year 125k extended warranty(middle package).

Good call..

 

[alphawolff]

Agreed. I did the 1K mile break in oil change and will always do 5k intervals. Im definitely good on sticking to maintenance intervals.

The first 3 days I owned the jeep without the extended warranty, it was nothing but nightmares. Next day i got the mopar 8 year 125k extended warranty(middle package).

Speaking from experience I would strongly suggest cancelling the added care plus package and going for the full maxcare package. You'll thank me in 4 years when something stupid breaks and you find out it isn't covered.

added care= the drivetrain and only the drivetrain (engine, transmission, differential, axles, etc)
added care plus = drive train + everything directly bolted to the drivetrain (ignition coils, sensors)
Maxcare = The rest of the vehicle, bumper to bumper

on a side note for anyone reading this the certified used warranty is essentially an added care extended warranty, it doesn't cover much.

 

[Speed331]

I've over 80,000 on my '20 two door. A daily driver, used often for work, it's been through four Las Vegas summers on 87 without a hitch. I change the oil every 5 to 7k -as well as all the other scheduled maintnance.
Still feels like a rocket in the two door....

 

[azjl#3]

Speaking from experience I would strongly suggest cancelling the added care plus package and going for the full maxcare package. You'll thank me in 4 years when something stupid breaks and you find out it isn't covered.

added care= the drivetrain and only the drivetrain (engine, transmission, differential, axles, etc)
added care plus = drive train + everything directly bolted to the drivetrain (ignition coils, sensors)
Maxcare = The rest of the vehicle, bumper to bumper

on a side note for anyone reading this the certified used warranty is essentially an added care extended warranty, it doesn't cover much.

Hey, I'm considering a 392 2024, but used with 2500 miles, they are offering a free 7 year 100,000 limited powertrain and CPO, any insight on that, sounds like I still need a max care 5 year 50k?

 

[alphawolff]

Hey, I'm considering a 392 2024, but used with 2500 miles, they are offering a free 7 year 100,000 limited powertrain and CPO, any insight on that, sounds like I still need a max care 5 year 50k?

The CPO is near worthless in my opinion. It'll cover the critical essentials and that's it. I'd strongly suggest getting maxcare, but you should wait until the end of your 3 year/36k warranty just incase something happens. So long as you do buy it before 3 years/36k expires there's no additional fee.

 

[Odyssey USA]

There’s no way around it, fuel takes time to burn. Even the best combustion chambers with millions of hours of research in racing and powertrain development programs Do not burn fuel instantaneously. Then ideally, you would want it at the beginning of the downstroke of the piston, not as it is approaching top dead center. Since it takes time, you have to start combustion process earlier than top dead center. That’s why ignition advance is expressed in degrees before top dead center. That’s when the plug fires. Too early, and heat can build up in the chamber, which will lead to a loss of control in ignition as the fuel spontaneously ignites due to hot spots, the electrode, exhaust valve... That’s where octane comes in and the resistance to igniting too early. Basically, the higher the number the more resistant it is to igniting too early at higher chamber heat. But remember, we still need that time to get, ideally, a complete burn to extract all of the BTUs out of the fuel where 87, 89, and 93 octane will all have the same BTUs per gallon, outside of ethanol free.

If you have knock detected, uncontrolled combustion, the computer will retard timing to a predetermined acceptable programmed level. Right on the edge…but that may not be enough time to completely burn/extract all the BTU potential from the fuel. If the fuel isn’t completely burning, it leaves more chamber deposits which can lead to hot spots…rinse/repeat the uncontrolled ignition problem potentially.

Really, manufacturers don’t care if you want to keep your engine running it’s best for 2-300k miles. They also don’t want to scare you away saying you “should” run this more expensive fuel (some like Shell VPower actually has anti wear additives for the rings/cyl walls.) because they want you to purchase the vehicle and competition is tight. They also don’t care if you run an oil that doesn’t protect the engine enough to run it’s best or longest after the Powertrain warranty is up.

I don’t run the minimum octane if I can avoid it. I personally researched along with my education and chose not to run the recommended oil viscosity either. The first defense against metal to metal contact from thermal breakdown is viscosity. There’s obviously an issue with the camshaft follower bearings wiping lobes. Could it be manufacturing tolerances, stack up, oil…sure. What won’t hurt is a 5w-30 or 5w-40 as the engine (same bearing clearances) was designed to run. Definitely no more than 5k mile oil change interval for me. CAFE is what brought these thin base weight oils. Now if I lived in a cold climate, maybe a 0w-20 or 30 would be best.

 

[dstevens]

I work on engine management and emissions for a living. Mostly forced induction engines nowadays.

1. No.
2. No.

But then I'm hungry most of the time...

Just keep on top of maintenance and enjoy the Jeep.

 

[Old Dogger]

Vehicles built as of today, are at risk for some expensive failures. There are many reasons for this, poor quality, massive amounts of electronics, Federal mandates pushing fuel economy to the limits, along with a reduction in emissions, and the list goes on. If I was to purchase a new vehicle today, which I am not, I would buy the most extensive extended warranty insurance policy available. Or only keep it, until the original warranty was about to run out.
The above statement was not only referring to Jeep vehicles, buy applied to all Brands of vehicles.

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