Made a mistake, possible N3 fuse blown

[Darth Rubicon]

So I’m usually in the JT forum but was working on the wife’s JL putting on a new bumper and winch when I did one of the dumbest things I’ve ever done. Basically I let the positive and negative cables make contact while wiring for about 5-10 seconds. I got a light show on the dashboard, will start with a jumper and runs for about 10-15 seconds. Numerous errors, I’ll test all the N fuses in the morning and probably switch 3 to 4 until I can pick the part up. Anything else I should be looking at? Also pulled a code for U113E intelligent battery sensor, is this a separate issue I created or just a cascade related to N3? Help get me out of the doghouse!

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[THAW]

That'll blow N3, and shouldn't cause other issues.

What do you mean by "will start with a jumper and runs for about 10-15 seconds"? What jumper, connected where? Does it shut off on its own?

 

[pulsic]

Ouch, that's a rough one. I'd definitely start with checking all the N fuses like you mentioned, especially N3 since those symptoms line up with it being blown. The IBS code could just be a cascade from the power event and not necessarily mean the sensor itself is toast. I'd disconnect the battery, inspect the IBS connector and wiring for any obvious damage, replace the blown fuse(s), clear the codes, and see what comes back. Hopefully it's just a fuse and an angry dashboard, not a fried module. Good luck getting back in the wife's good graces!

 

[Darth Rubicon]

That'll blow N3, and shouldn't cause other issues.

What do you mean by "will start with a jumper and runs for about 10-15 seconds"? What jumper, connected where? Does it shut off on its own?

So initially after “the event” it would start and throw warnings on its own. After I did this a few times trying to figure out what I had messed up. It wouldn’t start without my Noco boost hooked up to the main terminals on the battery. I haven’t let it shut off on its own yet but after the short amount of time running it gives the please pull over safely message and that’s when I kill the ignition.

 

[Darth Rubicon]

Ouch, that's a rough one. I'd definitely start with checking all the N fuses like you mentioned, especially N3 since those symptoms line up with it being blown. The IBS code could just be a cascade from the power event and not necessarily mean the sensor itself is toast. I'd disconnect the battery, inspect the IBS connector and wiring for any obvious damage, replace the blown fuse(s), clear the codes, and see what comes back. Hopefully it's just a fuse and an angry dashboard, not a fried module. Good luck getting back in the wife's good graces!

Ya luckily the IBS doesn’t have any obvious damage but if it’s still an issue after the N fuses I’ll investigate further.

 

[Darth Rubicon]

Just to update this, I confirmed #3 blown. I was going to try and use 4 until I have a part but it’s like trying to jam a square peg into a round hole. Teeth don’t line up against the fuse box.

 

[JL 2D]

Just to update this, I confirmed #3 blown. I was going to try and use 4 until I have a part but it’s like trying to jam a square peg into a round hole. Teeth don’t line up against the fuse box.

That’s expected, the cable ends are keyed - it can be forced if needed but personally I wouldn’t unless it’s an emergency.

 

[Darth Rubicon]

That’s expected, the cable ends are keyed - it can be forced if needed but personally I wouldn’t unless it’s an emergency.

Luckily for me a Napa store down the street has one in stock. So hopefully I’m out of the woods with this soon.

 

[THAW]

So initially after “the event” it would start and throw warnings on its own. After I did this a few times trying to figure out what I had messed up. It wouldn’t start without my Noco boost hooked up to the main terminals on the battery. I haven’t let it shut off on its own yet but after the short amount of time running it gives the please pull over safely message and that’s when I kill the ignition.

The pull over message is a result of the blown N3 fuse breaking the connection between the alternator and fuse box, leaving the quickly draining AUX (ESS) battery powering the fuse box and unable to provide proper voltage.

It's not clear to me why a jump pack connected to the crank battery terminals would make a difference in starting the vehicle, unless the crank battery was drained.

 

[Darth Rubicon]

The pull over message is a result of the blown N3 fuse breaking the connection between the alternator and fuse box, leaving the quickly draining AUX (ESS) battery powering the fuse box and unable to provide proper voltage.

It's not clear to me why a jump pack connected to the crank battery terminals would make a difference in starting the vehicle, unless the crank battery was drained.

I took the battery to have it checked when it first went down and it was reading 4 volts. Just replaced the fuse array and everything is back to normal. Went from 8 codes to 3 and the three remaining are left overs my scanner can’t clear “permanents”.

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