3.6L ESS IBS Information

[Mguy]

Hello, everyone. I’m new as an active member, although I have been visiting often looking for knowledge around the constant challenge that is owning a Jeep.

I now write to expand on this IBS issues thread hoping someone can help. I recently bought an ARB compressor which I connected to the auxiliary switches. When doing the installation I confused the switch number and connected it to a 15amp switch instead of a 40amp one. I turned it on and blew a fuse. After that, I had the check engine and the service stop-start lights on. Checked with the Tazer and the U113E-00 code popped-up, which means “lost communication with IBS”.

Many questioned arise: could I have damaged the IBS itself with my compressor connection mistake? I already tested with a new IBS at the dealer and the code kept coming up. I know per previous posts that the IBS should be trained, but then if the code says “lost communication with IBS” does it mean that a new and healthy IBS would disable the ESS but not throw the check-engine and that specific code again? They told me that the dealer I had to leave it at least a week for them to check the whole harness or even PCM damage. Does that sound plausible?

I know the simplest and probably inevitable solution will be to leave it at the dealer, but I know you all know we will try anything to avoid that. Any help will be highly appreciated.

Assuming there is no damage to IBS circuitry (and it's not easy to see how that could occur from a too high load, blow aux fuse alone), not difficult to perform IBS reset and/or relearning. See here.

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[pikobsan]

Assuming there is no damage to IBS circuitry (and it's not easy to see how that could occur from a too high load, blow aux fuse alone), not difficult to perform IBS reset and/or relearning. See here.

That’s my reasoning too. I don’t see how the blown aux fuse would cause damage to the Ibs circuitry. Even less so physical damage to the harness/connectors. Even the possible damage to the PCM mentioned at the dealer’s sounds improbable.
I already tried the reset process twice, but will do it again. Perhaps third is a charm. I have a question regarding the full 12v power kill process: the instructions previously posted in this thread state that I should disconnect BOTH negative cables from the Ibs connector and from each other. My Jeep has only one cable going to the negative terminal. It is a 2023 Rubicon with ESS, so I assume that at some point the decided to join both negatives together (to avoid bypassing the aux battery maybe?). Is it enough to disconnect this even though both negatives will still be together to perform a full 12v power kill?

 

[THAW]

My Jeep has only one cable going to the negative terminal. It is a 2023 Rubicon with ESS, so I assume that at some point the decided to join both negatives together (to avoid bypassing the aux battery maybe?).

You likely have eTorque (standard on US 3.6L engines in '23), meaning you don't have the AUX (ESS) battery or its negative cable.

 

[pikobsan]

You likely have eTorque (standard on US 3.6L engines in '23), meaning you don't have the AUX (ESS) battery or its negative cable.

You are absolutely right. I stand corrected. I have eTorque. But doesn’t this system also operate with an auxiliary battery?

 

[pikobsan]

You are absolutely right. I stand corrected. I have eTorque. But doesn’t this system also operate with an auxiliary battery?

Oh, my. I just became THAT person. I just assumed eTorque worked similar to ESS. I just read a bit and lesrned they are totally different systems and that e torque uses a 48v battery. Thank you for pointing me in the direction of further learning about my own car @THAW

 

[THAW]

I already tried the reset process twice, but will do it again. Perhaps third is a charm.

Star case 1408000384 recommends:

"2. Wiggle the IBS 2-way harness takeout (LIN and IBS feed takeout) and monitor the state of
DTC U113E.
o If this step affects U113E behavior, the issue is likely related to a failure in the harness.

3. Verify power to IBS by back probing the IBS 2-way connector (pin 2, “RD” wire)."

 

[pikobsan]

Star case 1408000384 recommends:

"2. Wiggle the IBS 2-way harness takeout (LIN and IBS feed takeout) and monitor the state of
DTC U113E.
o If this step affects U113E behavior, the issue is likely related to a failure in the harness.

3. Verify power to IBS by back probing the IBS 2-way connector (pin 2, “RD” wire)."

Thank you. I will try that. Another question: let’s assume that I just buy a new sensor and replace it, would the U3113E still show up and clear after it passes the learning process? Or would it clear immediately after connecting the new sensor?

 

[THAW]

Thank you. I will try that. Another question: let’s assume that I just buy a new sensor and replace it, would the U3113E still show up and clear after it passes the learning process? Or would it clear immediately after connecting the new sensor?

That's beyond my pay grade (zero). But the Star Case alludes to the code/CEL potentially clearing from a wiggle of the connector, so I'm guessing they disappear when communication is reestablished.

 

[pikobsan]

That's beyond my pay grade (zero). But the Star Case alludes to the code/CEL potentially clearing from a wiggle of the connector, so I'm guessing they disappear when communication is reestablished.

Thanks a lot for all the help. I just went through the reset process. I didn’t immediately get the code again, but I’m keeping my expectations low. I’ll post updates tomorrow after turning it on again.

 

[pikobsan]

That's beyond my pay grade (zero). But the Star Case alludes to the code/CEL potentially clearing from a wiggle of the connector, so I'm guessing they disappear when communication is reestablished.

Brief update: I changed the IBS without any changes. Same code, check engine and stop-start icon. Took it to the dealer. The technician said it might be some damage to the PCM due to overcharge. Asked me if I had jump-started the vehicle, which I didn’t. And the infamous word “modified” was already mentioned. Knowing where this was heading, I emphasized that my vehicle is not modified. I installed an accessory (compressor) connected to a OEM aux line which is supposed to be protected. They are now checking the lines and BUS signals to eliminate other possible failures before pointing to the PCM. My knowledge only goes so far, but from basic logic the PCM damage doesn’t make sense to me. I would assume that like any other electronic board, if it suffered overcharge damage it would not manifest in an individual component (IBS) but rather would cause general failure. Does it make sense to you?

 

[THAW]

They are now checking the lines and BUS signals to eliminate other possible failures before pointing to the PCM. My knowledge only goes so far, but from basic logic the PCM damage doesn’t make sense to me. I would assume that like any other electronic board, if it suffered overcharge damage it would not manifest in an individual component (IBS) but rather would cause general failure. Does it make sense to you?

I'm not an expert, but tend to agree that an electrically damaged module would be more likely to fail catastrophically rather than lose connection to a single sensor. Do you mean the BCM (not PCM)? The Star Case references possible rare BCM defects (and based on what I know from JScan Live Data, the BCM does most of the IBS data collection).

Checking the LIN Bus and IBS wiring makes sense to me.

Am I following correctly that you got the CEL/code to clear briefly by disconnecting power from the Jeep/IBS? And you confirmed power to the IBS connector?

 

[pikobsan]

I'm not an expert, but tend to agree that an electrically damaged module would be more likely to fail catastrophically rather than lose connection to a single sensor. Do you mean the BCM (not PCM)? The star case references possible rare BCM defects (and based on what I know from JScan the BCM does most of the IBS data collection).

Checking the LIN Bus and IBS wiring makes sense to me.

Am I following correctly that you got the CEL/code to clear briefly by disconnecting power from the Jeep/IBS? And you confirmed power to the IBS connector?

The dealer did mention PCM, not BCM. He even pointed towards the vertical silver metal plate on the opposite side of the engine bay while checking the battery terminal and not towards the BCM, so I doubt he mistook them, but wouldn’t . The PCM also collects data from the IBS, right?

Correct. I did get the codes cleared briefly after resetting the IBS, but got them back after the second restart. I did check the power to the IBS connector and it was ok (the multimeter read 11.85v).

What really annoys me is that it is perfectly clear that it happened after I connected the compressor and blew the fuse, so any damage, physical or electronic should have been caused by that. No wear or water in a harness or terminal. Maybe a fried line/terminal, but again, to my limited knowledge, I can’t figure out how a fused connection could fry a sensor harness. Specially since my mistake was connecting a 32 amp drawing compressor (peak) to a 15amp line instead of a 40 amp. I know probably many members of the forum will eyeroll at my conundrum and my deductions, which is why I emphasise my padawan status in this whole Jeep-owner tech relationship. Here to learn.

Since I already left it at the dealer’s, I will let them figure it out. I will update when they find anything. My only concern is that they might try to avoid any warranty claim under the “modified” pretense, which I already tried to clarify. We’ll see.

 

[THAW]

The PCM also collects data from the IBS, right?

Yes.

Maybe a fried line/terminal, but again, to my limited knowledge, I can’t figure out how a fused connection could fry a sensor harness. Specially since my mistake was connecting a 32 amp drawing compressor (peak) to a 15amp line instead of a 40 amp.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around that too. I just don't see the connection between the Aux Switch wiring/fuse and lost IBS communication.

Hopefully the dealer can figure out what's wrong. I'm curious to read your update.

 

[pikobsan]

Yes.



I'm still trying to wrap my head around that too. I just don't see the connection between the Aux Switch wiring/fuse and lost IBS communication.

Hopefully the dealer can figure out what's wrong. I'm curious to hear your update.

I’ll keep you posted.

 

[pikobsan]

I’ll keep you posted.

I just looked into this recent thread.

I'll try to add some data from the <24 wiring, obviously proceed to hunt at your own risk.

The accessed circuit is "LIN BUS CBC 1"

Here's the circuit:

The kit is catching it at connector XY302A where it goes forward to the IBS.

At the IBS, there are two wires, B+ and this circuit (LIN BUS CBC 1):

On a Rubi, the same circuit should exist in the locker switch. Makes sense that Mopar would not use this connection so that the kit was universal regardless of trim.

I do remember that when installing the aux switches the orange wire was a pain and was a bit loose. I left it like that.

Go forward a couple of years, to install my compressor I definitely wiggled the white conector while removing the plastic panel to get to the aux line. Maybe I somehow created a cut there which is interfering with the IBS comms?

From what they say in the post, if the orange wire wasn’t making proper contact, I would not have power going into the aux switches, which I am. But maybe the orange wire has nothing to do with power going to the switches and he is simply not getting them to power on until they are registered either with the Tazer or at the dealer’s.

Plus, the wires that run from the IBS’s plug are red and ORANGE.

!!!

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