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Lug-centric steel wheels question

donmontalvo

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I bought a set of Pro Comp 97 steel wheels, I confirmed they are lug-centric.

https://www.procompusa.com/wheels-p...lc=PCW&pqq=2336-1558-1551&pqa=13699-8275-8059

I'm new to the lug-centric vs hub-centric stuff, after some research learned about hub-centric rings, but apparently that's not needed for steel wheels.

Quadratec, Extreme Terrain, and some buddies who wrench for a living, say not to worry about it, just make sure they're installed properly.

In other words, tighten with a lug wrench (and not an impact wrench), and tighten in a star pattern (skip a hole as you go around), and torque to 120-130 foot pounds.

Does this sound right?
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blnewt

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Yes, that's the proper way to do it. I would go in the star pattern in 3 rounds, first round 60 ft lbs, second 100 ft lbs then a final round of 130 ft lbs. Once you get the final 130 I'd go around a final time at 130 just to make sure it's all equal.
 
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donmontalvo

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Yes, that's the proper way to do it. I would go in the star pattern in 3 rounds, first round 60 ft lbs, second 100 ft lbs then a final round of 130 ft lbs. Once you get the final 130 I'd go around a final time at 130 just to make sure it's all equal.
Thanks, will let the guys at the shop know. Their manager promised they won't use an impact wrench.
 

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Hub centric or lug centric has nothing to do with steel or aluminum. Hub centric exists to stop the studs from having more than one job. Hub centric allows the weight of the vehicle to sit on the wheel hub and wheel itself. Lug centric puts all that weight on the studs.

I do agree 100% with what you're hearing. Lug centric is perfectly fine.
 
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donmontalvo

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Hub centric or lug centric has nothing to do with steel or aluminum. Hub centric exists to stop the studs from having more than one job. Hub centric allows the weight of the vehicle to sit on the wheel hub and wheel itself. Lug centric puts all that weight on the studs.

I do agree 100% with what you're hearing. Lug centric is perfectly fine.
Yep that’s the way it was explained to me.
 

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Kreepin1

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Hubcentric takes all the guesswork out of mounting a wheel. Slap it on, torque the lugnuts, and presto, the wheel is centered on the hub.

Lugcentric is fine too, but the wheel can end up a little off center leading to vibration and handling issues. I feel the key is to get the wheel centered before starting to torque the lugnuts. I like to have the wheel off the ground (normal for any shop with a lift) and gently tighten a lug nut, then rotate it down to the bottom before tightening the next in the star pattern and then rotate it to the bottom, etc. Basically you are working the slack out of the system, pretty soon the lugnuts stay tight. Now you can put some weight on the tire and torque to spec.
 

blnewt

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Hubcentric takes all the guesswork out of mounting a wheel. Slap it on, torque the lugnuts, and presto, the wheel is centered on the hub.

Lugcentric is fine too, but the wheel can end up a little off center leading to vibration and handling issues. I feel the key is to get the wheel centered before starting to torque the lugnuts. I like to have the wheel off the ground (normal for any shop with a lift) and gently tighten a lug nut, then rotate it down to the bottom before tightening the next in the star pattern and then rotate it to the bottom, etc. Basically you are working the slack out of the system, pretty soon the lugnuts stay tight. Now you can put some weight on the tire and torque to spec.
Yeah, if for some reason you have some vibration at speed you could add hubcentric adapter rings just to get it as close to a hubcentric mount that you would get from a true hubcentric wheel. Hopefully you'll get them torqued down and everything will be fine without any further work needed :)
 

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Yeah, if for some reason you have some vibration at speed you could add hubcentric adapter rings just to get it as close to a hubcentric mount that you would get from a true hubcentric wheel. Hopefully you'll get them torqued down and everything will be fine without any further work needed :)
I agree that adapter rings can and should be used when mounting hubcentric wheels with too large of a bore diameter. However, my understanding is that lugcentric wheels may not have a centered bore in which case the adapter ring will prevent proper centering of the wheel.
 

blnewt

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I agree that adapter rings can and should be used when mounting hubcentric wheels with too large of a bore diameter. However, my understanding is that lugcentric wheels may not have a centered bore in which case the adapter ring will prevent proper centering of the wheel.
I wouldn't get them unless other options have been exhausted to eliminate vibration. Hopefully OP has no issues, most don't.
 

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I agree that adapter rings can and should be used when mounting hubcentric wheels with too large of a bore diameter. However, my understanding is that lugcentric wheels may not have a centered bore in which case the adapter ring will prevent proper centering of the wheel.
It depends. My wheels are machined all at the same time. Center bore is done with the bolt pattern. None of it matters unless you are machining either part true to the bead seat. So lug centric can be just as bad. This is why you should dial indicate your wheels before mounting a tire on them. :)
 

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Kreepin1

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It depends. My wheels are machined all at the same time. Center bore is done with the bolt pattern. None of it matters unless you are machining either part true to the bead seat. So lug centric can be just as bad. This is why you should dial indicate your wheels before mounting a tire on them. :)
Spot on, I forgot you are in in the wheel business!
 

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Hub centric or lug centric has nothing to do with steel or aluminum. Hub centric exists to stop the studs from having more than one job. Hub centric allows the weight of the vehicle to sit on the wheel hub and wheel itself. Lug centric puts all that weight on the studs.

I do agree 100% with what you're hearing. Lug centric is perfectly fine.
This is a common misconception. The weight of the vehicle does not rest on the tiny lip of the hub. Whether you have a lug-centric or hub-centric installation the force is transferred through the friction/clamping pressure generated from tightening the lug nuts. The only difference is the centering process, hence the name.
 

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This is a common misconception. The weight of the vehicle does not rest on the tiny lip of the hub. Whether you have a lug-centric or hub-centric installation the force is transferred through the friction/clamping pressure generated from tightening the lug nuts. The only difference is the centering process, hence the name.
There is zero misconception about it. My previous statement is true. Hub-centric wheels remove the sheer force from the studs. The weight of the vehicle sits on the center bore to keep you from sheering the wheel studs.

Yes you still want the friction between the wheel and hub as that friction is most important. That's why most people do not have issues with lug-centric wheels. However, in heavy impacts a hub-centric wheel has a greater chance of staying in place versus a lug-centric wheel because of center bore resting on the hub.
 

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There is zero misconception about it. My previous statement is true. Hub-centric wheels remove the sheer force from the studs. The weight of the vehicle sits on the center bore to keep you from sheering the wheel studs.

Yes you still want the friction between the wheel and hub as that friction is most important. That's why most people do not have issues with lug-centric wheels. However, in heavy impacts a hub-centric wheel has a greater chance of staying in place versus a lug-centric wheel because of center bore resting on the hub.
They remove no sheering force from the studs. It’s a misconception. If it isn’t obvious to you, consider most hub centric adapters are plastic and the lips on most vehicles are only protrude a couple MM. There is no force transferred through those lips once the studs or lug nuts are tightened. Zero. If your studs are loose enough to allow said force, you have a bigger issue on the way.
 

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They remove no sheering force from the studs. It’s a misconception. If it isn’t obvious to you, consider most hub centric adapters are plastic and the lips on most vehicles are only protrude a couple MM. There is no force transferred through those lips once the studs or lug nuts are tightened. Zero. If your studs are loose enough to allow said force, you have a bigger issue on the way.
King of the Hammers is coming up shortly. I suggest you watch every pit stop you can see. Every pit crew has a member dedicated to tightening lug nuts. It's a thing.

Have you ever machined a wheel to fit a wheel hub? Maybe for someone who has raced at the highest levels of off road abuse? Have you ever helped cure the lug nut issue with race teams?

I understand what you're saying. I get what physically happens. I just can't concede to see it your way when I've spent 10 years working with all sorts of wheel issues and have helped cure what you say doesn't exist.
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