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Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

sandor.g

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By chance do you have a pic of where you grounded the amp?
due to the size of the ring connector on my ground cable I was limited. I used the smaller bolt further in. There was nothing on it, and was perfect distance for my harness.

46EF483E-CCF2-4F83-B743-A8DF3F0BF0B0.jpeg
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Goosed

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due to the size of the ring connector on my ground cable I was limited. I used the smaller bolt further in. There was nothing on it, and was perfect distance for my harness.

46EF483E-CCF2-4F83-B743-A8DF3F0BF0B0.jpeg
Thanks - was there a need to wire brush down to metal or is that ready to go as is?

I got my sound bar done last night, had a hard time mounting the crossovers in there for the components.

Anyone run the RCA’s down the center of the dash and thru the center console?
 

ToPar9

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Thanks - was there a need to wire brush down to metal or is that ready to go as is?
I used the post on the right side. I went ahead and scraped the black down to the bare metal. Needed? I am not sure, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I got my sound bar done last night, had a hard time mounting the crossovers in there for the components.
I went with two-way's for the same reason. I was scared of space.

Anyone run the RCA’s down the center of the dash and thru the center console?
12' - 4 plug RCA and 16" - 2 plug RCA. Running RCA and Speaker wire down the passenger side door. Amp is under the Px seat. I decided not to pull the center console out. I ran power down driver side with distro block under the middle passenger seat. Distro to sub and amp.

Where did you mount your crossovers in the front? I am measuring for space on the side of the Metra Pod on the passenger side, but I think it would be too tight on the driver's side. Half tempted to mount driver's side at the very top, front corner of the kickplate, or velcro strap to the crossbar below the steering wheel.
 

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Thanks - was there a need to wire brush down to metal or is that ready to go as is?
I used the post on the right side. I went ahead and scraped the black down to the bare metal. Needed? I am not sure, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I got my sound bar done last night, had a hard time mounting the crossovers in there for the components.
I went with two-way's for the same reason. I was scared of space.

Anyone run the RCA’s down the center of the dash and thru the center console?
12' - 4 plug RCA and 16" - 2 plug RCA. Running RCA and Speaker wire down the passenger side door. Amp is under the Px seat. I decided not to pull the center console out. I ran power down driver side with distro block under the middle passenger seat. Distro to sub and amp.

Where did you mount your crossovers in the front? I am measuring for space on the side of the Metra Pod on the passenger side, but I think it would be too tight on the driver's side. Half tempted to mount driver's side at the very top, front corner of the kickplate, or velcro strap to the crossbar below the steering wheel.
Thanks for the info.

I have not gotten to the front yet. Been doing each piece possible before I get the amps installed.

1. Sound deadened Metra pods and installed baffles
2. Took speaker bar off, deadened, polyfill, 6.5 adapters, drilled and installed tweeters and mounted crossover. Ran 14 gauge speaker wire to passenger side.
3. Just mounted the component mid range to the Metra pods.

this is as far as I’ve gotten. Seen a lot of people mount the crossover to the side of the Metra pod. Hoping that works for mine.

here’s the sound bar.

181A8081-663A-4453-8C60-F4BEFB1AD16B.jpeg
 

ToPar9

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Thanks for the info.

I have not gotten to the front yet. Been doing each piece possible before I get the amps installed.

1. Sound deadened Metra pods and installed baffles
2. Took speaker bar off, deadened, polyfill, 6.5 adapters, drilled and installed tweeters and mounted crossover. Ran 14 gauge speaker wire to passenger side.
3. Just mounted the component mid range to the Metra pods.

this is as far as I’ve gotten. Seen a lot of people mount the crossover to the side of the Metra pod. Hoping that works for mine.

here’s the sound bar.
Looking good!
I’m kind of in the same boat as you. Soundbar done. Went with a cheaper 2-way 6.5” for “fill”. Dynamat and polyfilled the bar as well.
Power/ground, RCA/speaker wire, amp all completed. Last step mount front speakers and assemble the mess I’ve made out of the front of the Jeep.
I went 3-way Morel’s front. The 2.5”s are not a drop in replacement. Luckily, my neighbor fab’d me two custom brackets. Hopeful to mount the crossovers to the metra pods as well. I’m on the hunt for connector pins at the moment. The 4 that were supplied from Morel seem to not fit properly. They fit very snug on the 6.5” negative terminal, but they do not fit the +\- of the 2.5’s.
The posts on the 2.5s look like a cross, two small tabs towards the top. I am unable to get the connectors over the tabs as they are smooth all the way. They are so loose, a small wiggle of the speaker and the wire falls off.
The best way to describe it ...
2.5” posts look like a lowercase “t”. The connectors fit an uppercase “I”.
I have pics in a post I created earlier.
Good luck the rest of the way.
 

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Goosed

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One of my Metra pods slipped on my work bench when I was screwing the speaker in and I hit the speaker... no puncture but with all the work it takes to get these pods in and now a am at a standstill. Wondering if this will be okay or get get a new one.

wondering if anyone can provide advice on if this is suspect or if I should be okay based on the damage on this...

93DEE0C6-390F-4781-8CFD-C94037C07BA4.jpeg
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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One of my Metra pods slipped on my work bench when I was screwing the speaker in and I hit the speaker... no puncture but with all the work it takes to get these pods in and now a am at a standstill. Wondering if this will be okay or get get a new one.

wondering if anyone can provide advice on if this is suspect or if I should be okay based on the damage on this...
It doesn't look torn, but is it? A very, very light bead of clear E6000 should help. It's available locally (link is to Advance Auto Parts).
 

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It doesn't look torn, but is it? A very, very light bead of clear E6000 should help. It's available locally (link is to Advance Auto Parts).
Not torn. Scratched the “glue” that attaches the cone to the surround, and that little bleep on the surround.

Really undecided if I want to even try. Covid stretching our funds, but I am not going to want to rip the dash apart in a few weeks if this ends up being an issue.

I am thinking of returning the JL 4 channel amp and reusing my Polk 4 channel I have (blew my last set of C2’s with this amp, it is 125 RMS to each channel and believe the C2’s are only 65w).

Want the focal 3 ways...

But if you think with no tear and some e6000 I’ll be okay that would be the cheapest option.
 

ToPar9

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Not torn. Scratched the “glue” that attaches the cone to the surround, and that little bleep on the surround.

Really undecided if I want to even try. Covid stretching our funds, but I am not going to want to rip the dash apart in a few weeks if this ends up being an issue.

I am thinking of returning the JL 4 channel amp and reusing my Polk 4 channel I have (blew my last set of C2’s with this amp, it is 125 RMS to each channel and believe the C2’s are only 65w).

Want the focal 3 ways...

But if you think with no tear and some e6000 I’ll be okay that would be the cheapest option.
duuuude, I did the same thing but worse.
it was my last speaker to install as well.

4D8F40F0-B139-4C4C-8D39-AEBD5030476A.jpeg
 

ToPar9

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I’m not sure what to do. I doubt Crutchfield can help, but I reached out. This the 3-way set too. I can’t find a pair of this type to order.
I feel like I’m going to :puke:...
 

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When going with the FIX86, is there a wire harness available or do I need to make my own? Any other features that it has or doesn't have verses the PAC?
Not sure if i should quote myself or not, but no one has answered my questions yet. I have done a little more research myself today. One think I have found is it looks like PAC does not have software for Mac and JL does. That puts me leaning toward the Fix86. I downloaded their TuN software to play around a bit. I was under the impression that the Fix86 would do everything the amps with built in DSP would do but that does not seem to be the case.
 

Goosed

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Not sure if i should quote myself or not, but no one has answered my questions yet. I have done a little more research myself today. One think I have found is it looks like PAC does not have software for Mac and JL does. That puts me leaning toward the Fix86. I downloaded their TuN software to play around a bit. I was under the impression that the Fix86 would do everything the amps with built in DSP would do but that does not seem to be the case.

I haven’t seen a harness for the Fix, most make there own or Metra May have a standard speaker harness interface that you could possibly use. Appears to be different installs. However I did not know that PAC didn’t have software for MacBook and that’s all I have so now I’m not happy.
 

jdhunt0

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I haven’t seen a harness for the Fix, most make there own or Metra May have a standard speaker harness interface that you could possibly use. Appears to be different installs. However I did not know that PAC didn’t have software for MacBook and that’s all I have so now I’m not happy.
If they have software for Mac I have not been able to find it. That’s why I’m curious if there is anything the PAC unit does that JL does not.
 

ToPar9

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It doesn't look torn, but is it? A very, very light bead of clear E6000 should help. It's available locally (link is to Advance Auto Parts).
Sting, you are the man with a plan ...
I contacted the seller, but I doubt they can/will do anything about my mistake.
This speaker is part of a 3-way set. The 3-way set will be in the front.
I am having a hard time locating a replacement 6.5" that matches the set. The Morel's that I find online are all 2-way. I cannot find a 6.5 that is an exact match of what I have.
I read up on using the E6000 and small pieces of foam on the front and back of the speaker. The videos I watched were all for subs that flex a ton. I think the 6.5 with the same method, in theory, should work ok. I'd rather have the fixed speaker as one of the 'fill' speakers in the soundbar with fade towards the front.
I researched a few videos, and here are 2 possible corrective actions about the boneheaded move I made during install.
1. Go ahead and bite the bullet and purchase the 2-way set that matches. Use one of the 6.5"s for the front. Fix the torn 6.5", and use the good one and the repaired one in the soundbar. (possibly go ahead and install the 2-way in the soundbar)
If it sounds like trash, which may be the case, put the original 6.5's that I purchased back into the soundbar.
2. Buy the 2-way, replace the damaged 6.5 with a new 6.5, and have a spare with two tweeters collect dust in my garage.
**Side note** I have two items that I am returning, as I purchased the wrong amp kit and an extra pack of Dynamat. If I purchase the 2-way, I will only need 75-80 bucks out of pocket.
If anyone else has any thoughts on this, please send them my way.

IMG_7809.jpg
 

sandor.g

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Thanks - was there a need to wire brush down to metal or is that ready to go as is?

I got my sound bar done last night, had a hard time mounting the crossovers in there for the components.

Anyone run the RCA’s down the center of the dash and thru the center console?
I didn't brush it down as the nut is a flange nut so there is a healthy surface for connection.
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