Replace Your Clusters Blank LCD While Keeping Your Mileage

• First, follow anyones videos on dash and cluster removal, I used this one How to change your Jeep JL Gauge Cluster.
  
  
• Next flip over your cluster and using a T10 remove the two screws marked in red
• Next remove the eight T8 torx screws marked in green.
  
  
  
  
  
• Next seperate the two pieces to remove the front clear plastic cover and set aside. There are four clips holding it on as shown in yellow.
  
  
  
  
  
• Next, I used tape and marked the positions of the needles so when I put them back on they will be in same spot.
• Next remove the two needles, I used two spoons (One on each side) and pried upward to pop them off (Make sure you pry them straight up).
  
  
  
  
  
• Next, flip over the cluster and remove the five T10 screws that hold the heatsink AND LCD to the board.
  
  
  
  
  
• Next, remove the ribbon that connects your LCD to the board. Just flip up the ribbon locking clip marked with an arrow and remove the ribbon.
  
  
  
  
  
• Now all there is to do is remove/replace the LCD.
  
  
• Reinsert the ribbon making sure the ribbons tabs are in place, then pull down the ribbon lock to keep it in place.
  
  
  
  
  
• Lastly follow the directions in reverse.... When it comes to incerting the needles back in just take your time, I had to remove them several times untill I got them lined up with my markings.
  
  
• Now put your dash all back together and reconnect your battery.
  
  

Unicornusrex said:

What if instead of a blank cluster you get 999999 on the mileage at times and at others it displays the actual mileage? Would this fix correct it or would I be looking at some software or faulty cluster issue?

Click to expand...

Unicornusrex said:

What if instead of a blank cluster you get 999999 on the mileage at times and at others it displays the actual mileage? Would this fix correct it or would I be looking at some software or faulty cluster issue?

Click to expand...

Spank said:

It's a shame you can't update the software on the cluster itself. Us 2018's have the stupidly slow transition between menus and screens Jeep decided to fix a year later.

Click to expand...

SoggyCashew said:

Hello, first off thanks @Portmod7 for the help and idea to do this instead of going through the lenghly AND expensive process of have a shop do the work and having them either send out the cluster to clone your milage. Origional thread HERE

EBAY - JD1 LCD LAM070G133A
OR
LCDQuote - JD1 LCD LAM070G133A

This method is just replacing the clusters LCD with not having to go threw the disaster of sending it in etc. and it took me a total of maybe an hour or so, The milage IS/MUST be kept on the clusters board so after changing your cluster it will be like it was before the LCD went out, your milage and dash settings will again appear.

• First, follow anyones videos on dash and cluster removal, I used this one How to change your Jeep JL Gauge Cluster.
  
  
• Next flip over your cluster and using a T10 remove the two screws marked in red
• Next remove the eight T8 torx screws marked in green.
  
  
  
  
  
• Next seperate the two pieces to remove the front clear plastic cover and set aside. There are four clips holding it on as shown in yellow.
  
  
  
  
  
• Next, I used tape and marked the positions of the needles so when I put them back on they will be in same spot.
• Next remove the two needles, I used two spoons (One on each side) and pried upward to pop them off (Make sure you pry them straight up).
  
  
  
  
  
• Next, flip over the cluster and remove the five T10 screws that hold the heatsink AND LCD to the board.
  
  
  
  
  
• Next, remove the ribbon that connects your LCD to the board. Just flip up the ribbon locking clip marked with an arrow and remove the ribbon.
  
  
  
  
  
• Now all there is to do is remove/replace the LCD.
  
  
• Reinsert the ribbon making sure the ribbons tabs are in place, then pull down the ribbon lock to keep it in place.
  
  
  
  
  
• Lastly follow the directions in reverse.... When it comes to incerting the needles back in just take your time, I had to remove them several times untill I got them lined up with my markings.
  
  
• Now put your dash all back together and reconnect your battery.
  
  

Click to expand...

SoggyCashew said:

Hello, first off thanks @Portmod7 for the help and idea to do this instead of going through the lenghly AND expensive process of have a shop do the work and having them either send out the cluster to clone your milage. Origional thread HERE

EBAY - JD1 LCD LAM070G133A
OR
LCDQuote - JD1 LCD LAM070G133A

This method is just replacing the clusters LCD with not having to go threw the disaster of sending it in etc. and it took me a total of maybe an hour or so, The milage IS/MUST be kept on the clusters board so after changing your cluster it will be like it was before the LCD went out, your milage and dash settings will again appear.

• First, follow anyones videos on dash and cluster removal, I used this one How to change your Jeep JL Gauge Cluster.
  
  
• Next flip over your cluster and using a T10 remove the two screws marked in red
• Next remove the eight T8 torx screws marked in green.
  
  
  
  
  
• Next seperate the two pieces to remove the front clear plastic cover and set aside. There are four clips holding it on as shown in yellow.
  
  
  
  
  
• Next, I used tape and marked the positions of the needles so when I put them back on they will be in same spot.
• Next remove the two needles, I used two spoons (One on each side) and pried upward to pop them off (Make sure you pry them straight up).
  
  
  
  
  
• Next, flip over the cluster and remove the five T10 screws that hold the heatsink AND LCD to the board.
  
  
  
  
  
• Next, remove the ribbon that connects your LCD to the board. Just flip up the ribbon locking clip marked with an arrow and remove the ribbon.
  
  
  
  
  
• Now all there is to do is remove/replace the LCD.
  
  
• Reinsert the ribbon making sure the ribbons tabs are in place, then pull down the ribbon lock to keep it in place.
  
  
  
  
  
• Lastly follow the directions in reverse.... When it comes to incerting the needles back in just take your time, I had to remove them several times untill I got them lined up with my markings.
  
  
• Now put your dash all back together and reconnect your battery.
  
  

This is very helpful. I understand from the dealer and my research that these instrument clusters are VIN and mileage specific. I was wondering where are the EPROMs that store this information. From your pictures I see them below the screen assembly on the green circuit board (see the large black rectangular semiconductors) that do not change with this swap. So that makes sense. I also wondered why the analog gauges (four of them on the 3.5 inch display cluster) failed when the screen went out. They are not really analog but digital outputs with needles, all from the same screen digital assembly. So, if I want to preserve the VIN and mileage from my original instrument cluster but change the LCD display, then following this procedure is the way to do that. OK, I will get a same year instrument display cluster (for me a 3.5 inch for 3.6 liter, not sure if the same display for the eTorque mild hybrid and the ESS V-6, I will find out when I disassemble the two clusters). Without the display working, did the EPROMs on the cluster board continue to update with mileage communicated from the other modules, such as ECM, as I drove the Jeep for about 200 miles, while figuring all this out and waiting for my scrapyard cluster for parts to arrive? I will find out. My guess is yes, as the power and communication connection is to the cluster board first, not the display assembly that this procedure replaces. I have about 90% of the information that I need, thanks to this thread and other posts on the forum. Thanks to all who posted on this common failure. Having only the 2024 model year recalled for this common issue since 2019 is pretty insulting, isn't it? All traceable to Fiat's Marelli America supplier for the instrument clusters is what my research shows (and the model year 2024 NHTSB recall notice confirms).
For those of you that posted that it is not a big issue to drive without your instrument cluster, I would say that it definitely is a safety issue. Any one of these, you can handle separately in an adequate manner. But add all of these at one time on a dark rainy night is a different issue. For those of you who have not experienced an unexpected blank instrument cluster, consider this:
- Trying to manage turn signals and high/low beam headlights without any indication or sound inside the vehicle. Especially tough at twilight.
- Trying to manage fuel levels without any indication. Challenging as the days go by.
- Trying to manage vehicle speed is hard. As the center stack display is a separate circuit, you can use your Nav app and display speed. Not as helpful in areas (such as where we live) that measures highway distances in kilometers and so the GPS displays in KPH rather than the requested mph.
- Trying to manage downhill speed with transmission gearing is quite difficult with an 8-speed transmission and no tachometer of gear indicator inside.
- eTorque and charging systems do not seem to work completely on our vehicle (2022 JLUHT) without the instrument cluster. There is a parasitic draw on the battery overnight leaving me with mid-11VDC to start the next morning. Let the Jeep sit for two days and it will not start. A new AGM battery did not address this. Short in the shorted-out cluster display assembly? Fire hazard? I hope that the fuse would protect from that. Still, something is sucking electrical power, not normal and not before the blank instrument cluster. I will find out as I replace the display.
- And finally, you receive absolutely no indication, no gauge, no DTC, no trouble light or sound if you have a system caution or failure while driving. Think about that while your wife is hounding you about why you bought another Jeep. Well, she does not pay attention to any information from the cluster, other than speed, anyway.

Click to expand...

Capt. Don said:

This excellent procedure to repair the 7 inch screen clusters did not work for the 3.5 inch cluster. Rather than hijack this thread I will start another for the repair of the 3.5 inch instrument cluster.

Click to expand...