Wiring halos to side markers?

[kapk22]

I have seen a few videos on YouTube of the Mopar led headlights instal and the guys run the wires for the halos back through the firewall to the canbus.

someone on here mentioned wiring it directly to the side markers instead. Will this work?

i just got the dv8 kit, similar to the mopars.

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[TheRaven]

I have seen a few videos on YouTube of the Mopar led headlights instal and the guys run the wires for the halos back through the firewall to the canbus.

someone on here mentioned wiring it directly to the side markers instead. Will this work?

i just got the dv8 kit, similar to the mopars.

I did it. It's a PITA though and I still need to tweak it. The problem is that there are three different possible wiring scenarios depending on which model and trim you have.

Sport/Sport S Halogen - One dual filament bulb that handles Parking/Turn/DRL in a single enclosure. I think...does this setup even have a DRL?

Rubicon/Sahara/80th Halogen - One dual filament bulb that handles Parking and DRL, and one single filament bulb for turn.

Rubicon/Sahara/80th LED - One LED array that handles Parking and DRL, and one LED array for turn.

The wiring is different for each scenario. I have scenario 2 - Rubicon/Sahara/80th Halogen, and i'm running the Morimoto XB LED fender lights and Oracle Oculus headlights. I read up on as many relevant threads on the net as possible, checked all the available wiring diagrams, and none of them seem to match my setup. In my harness the white/brown and white/green wires both run to the Parking/DRL bulb, so it would seem to me that one MUST be DRL and one must be Parking. But they don't meter out that way. For me, the white/brown is hot when in DRL AND PARKING mode and the white/green is hot when the turn signal is activated. Weird because that wire doens't go to the turn signal bulb. I originally wired my halos to the white/brown wire and they work in "night" mode (when the light sensor senses low enough light to dim the dash and turn on the headlights and the fender DRLs go to parking light mode) but they do not work in "day" mode, when the fender DRLs are lit. Before I finished the install the first time, I wired the halos to the white/green wire and they didn't come on at all, in any mode.

I'm going to take it apart again either today or tomorrow and do some more experimenting. I'm thinking about just tying the white/brown and white/green wires together and running the halos on that. I'll update when I have results.

 

[kapk22]

I did it. It's a PITA though and I still need to tweak it. The problem is that there are three different wiring possible wiring scenarios depending on which model and trim you have.

Sport/Sport S Halogen - One dual filament bulb that handles Parking/Turn/DRL in a single enclosure. I think...does this setup even have a DRL?

Rubicon/Sahara/80th Halogen - One dual filament bulb that handles Parking and DRL, and one single filament bulb for turn.

Rubicon/Sahara/80th LED - One LED array that handles Parking and DRL, and one LED array for turn.

The wiring is different for each scenario. I have scenario 2 - Rubicon/Sahara/80th Halogen, and i'm running the Morimoto XB LED fender lights and Oracle Oculus headlights. I read up on as many relevant threads on the net as possible, checked all the available wiring diagrams, and none of them seem to match my setup. In my harness the white/brown and white/green wires both run to the Parking/DRL bulb, so it would seem to me that one MUST be DRL and one must be Parking. But they don't meter out that way. For me, the white/brown is hot when in DRL AND PARKING mode and the white/green is hot when the turn signal is activated. Weird because that wire doens't go to the turn signal bulb. I originally wired my halos to the white/brown wire and they work in "night" mode (when the light sensor senses low enough light to dim the dash and turn on the headlights and the fender DRLs go to parking light mode) but they do not work in "day" mode, when the fender DRLs are lit. Before I finished the install the first time, I wired the halos to the white/green wire and they didn't come on at all, in any mode.

I'm going to take it apart again either today or tomorrow and do some more experimenting. I'm thinking about just tying the white/brown and white/green wires together and running the halos on that. I'll update when I have results.

Holy moly !!

thanks for the info. Plan is to install headlights, led drl (oem LEDs) and oem led fogs Wednesday. Hope you have some luck today.

 

[kapk22]

I did it. It's a PITA though and I still need to tweak it. The problem is that there are three different wiring possible wiring scenarios depending on which model and trim you have.

Sport/Sport S Halogen - One dual filament bulb that handles Parking/Turn/DRL in a single enclosure. I think...does this setup even have a DRL?

Rubicon/Sahara/80th Halogen - One dual filament bulb that handles Parking and DRL, and one single filament bulb for turn.

Rubicon/Sahara/80th LED - One LED array that handles Parking and DRL, and one LED array for turn.

The wiring is different for each scenario. I have scenario 2 - Rubicon/Sahara/80th Halogen, and i'm running the Morimoto XB LED fender lights and Oracle Oculus headlights. I read up on as many relevant threads on the net as possible, checked all the available wiring diagrams, and none of them seem to match my setup. In my harness the white/brown and white/green wires both run to the Parking/DRL bulb, so it would seem to me that one MUST be DRL and one must be Parking. But they don't meter out that way. For me, the white/brown is hot when in DRL AND PARKING mode and the white/green is hot when the turn signal is activated. Weird because that wire doens't go to the turn signal bulb. I originally wired my halos to the white/brown wire and they work in "night" mode (when the light sensor senses low enough light to dim the dash and turn on the headlights and the fender DRLs go to parking light mode) but they do not work in "day" mode, when the fender DRLs are lit. Before I finished the install the first time, I wired the halos to the white/green wire and they didn't come on at all, in any mode.

I'm going to take it apart again either today or tomorrow and do some more experimenting. I'm thinking about just tying the white/brown and white/green wires together and running the halos on that. I'll update when I have results.

forgot to mention, mine is a 2021 unlimited rubicon with the factory halogen package. I haven’t checked the wiring yet. However, wibornz hooked me up with the side markers (with the wiring left in tact) when I bought the led drls. Maybe that will help a little.

 

[TheRaven]

I'm posting this update in here so that we have a definitive answer to this question:

I got it working...

Here's how it works - in "day" mode, the white/green wire is hot...that tells the DRLs to run in "high" mode, and in "night" mode, the white/brown wire is hot...that tells the DRLs to run in "low" mode, this is also "parking" lights. The problem is that ideally you want your halos on in both situations. You COULD just choose to use them during the day since at night they wouldn't be as visible with how close they are to the headlights. But I think most guys would like them to be on with the DRLs during the day and at night with the headlights. So if you only need them on during the day, you can just tie them into the white/green wire and be done with it. But if you want it all, then you have to get creative.

The problem is that you can't just tie the white/brown and white/green wires together or else voltage will backfeed into whichever circuit is off...I don't think that this will break anything, but it would result in your DRLs being on full blast at night and your taillights being on during the day. What you need is a way to tie the halo power into BOTH white/brown and white/green wires and stop voltage from going where you don't want it...and you can do that with diodes. With two diodes - one placed between the halo wire and the white/brown wire, and one placed between the halo wire and white/green wire, you allow voltage to travel from either of those two wires and onto the halo wire, but stop voltage from feeding back onto the non-powered wire. I ended up using two diodes paralleled to each wire because my diodes are only rated for 3A, which should be ok but I figure having the second one in there gives some extra insurance.

Here are the diodes I would recommend for this application:

https://components101.com/diodes/1n5824-schottky-diode

Since they are rated for 5A, you only need one on each wire.

 

[BilletMike]

Thank you for this post/thread, I got some QuakeLED headlight/foglights/taillights for Christmas and the install went very smoothly but the DRLs on all three do not work during the day! Did you complete the installation of the diode and did it/they solve the issue?

 

[aham23]

Wow seems complicated to get the Mopar working.

My Oracle LED Headlights came with separate wire to tap into the fuse box to power the DRLs. At night when the headlights kick on I dont see the halo much if any.

I plan to add some Mopar Take Off LED turns I picked up. I plan to update the JLUR with a Tazr so the system reads them as LED. I’m reading that should be fine to get the turn DRLs working. Hoping the headlight and turn DRL run durning the daytime just like OEM.

Love that look!

Good luck.

 

[kapk22]

I'm posting this update in here so that we have a definitive answer to this question:

I got it working...

Here's how it works - in "day" mode, the white/green wire is hot...that tells the DRLs to run in "high" mode, and in "night" mode, the white/brown wire is hot...that tells the DRLs to run in "low" mode, this is also "parking" lights. The problem is that ideally you want your halos on in both situations. You COULD just choose to use them during the day since at night they wouldn't be as visible with how close they are to the headlights. But I think most guys would like them to be on with the DRLs during the day and at night with the headlights. So if you only need them on during the day, you can just tie them into the white/green wire and be done with it. But if you want it all, then you have to get creative.

The problem is that you can't just tie the white/brown and white/green wires together or else voltage will backfeed into whichever circuit is off...I don't think that this will break anything, but it would result in your DRLs being on full blast at night and your taillights being on during the day. What you need is a way to tie the halo power into BOTH white/brown and white/green wires and stop voltage from going where you don't want it...and you can do that with diodes. With two diodes - one placed between the halo wire and the white/brown wire, and one placed between the halo wire and white/green wire, you allow voltage to travel from either of those two wires and onto the halo wire, but stop voltage from feeding back onto the non-powered wire. I ended up using two diodes paralleled to each wire because my diodes are only rated for 3A, which should be ok but I figure having the second one in there gives some extra insurance.

Here are the diodes I would recommend for this application:

https://components101.com/diodes/1n5824-schottky-diode

Since they are rated for 5A, you only need one on each wire.

so cool. Thank you.

 

[TheRaven]

Thank you for this post/thread, I got some QuakeLED headlight/foglights/taillights for Christmas and the install went very smoothly but the DRLs on all three do not work during the day! Did you complete the installation of the diode and did it/they solve the issue?

Yes and yes. They are working exactly as I wanted now.

Wow seems complicated to get the Mopar working.

My Oracle LED Headlights came with separate wire to tap into the fuse box to power the DRLs. At night when the headlights kick on I dont see the halo much if any.

Mine aren't Mopar, they are Oracle Oculus headlights and Morimoto XB fender lights.

 

[BilletMike]

Yes and yes. They are working exactly as I wanted now.



Mine aren't Mopar, they are Oracle Oculus headlights and Morimoto XB fender lights.

Update: I talked to a QuakeLED rep and he said all I need to do is use a scotch block to combine the two DRL wires. He said they have addressed the situation with recent manufacturing runs (changed the included wiring harness to connect to the correct wires). I am picking up the connector tonight, I'll write back hopefully with good news.

 

[The_Paper_Cut]

An easier way in my opinion, use a fuse tap. Tap into one of the accessory fuses that you don’t use (cigarette lighter, seat warmer, etc), and run a wire from the halo to the fuse tap. Costed me $10 and took maybe 30 minutes to wire everything up. that’s if you want them on whenever your engine is on.

 

[mgarciaknight]

I did it. It's a PITA though and I still need to tweak it. The problem is that there are three different wiring possible wiring scenarios depending on which model and trim you have.

Sport/Sport S Halogen - One dual filament bulb that handles Parking/Turn/DRL in a single enclosure. I think...does this setup even have a DRL?

Rubicon/Sahara/80th Halogen - One dual filament bulb that handles Parking and DRL, and one single filament bulb for turn.

Rubicon/Sahara/80th LED - One LED array that handles Parking and DRL, and one LED array for turn.

The wiring is different for each scenario. I have scenario 2 - Rubicon/Sahara/80th Halogen, and i'm running the Morimoto XB LED fender lights and Oracle Oculus headlights. I read up on as many relevant threads on the net as possible, checked all the available wiring diagrams, and none of them seem to match my setup. In my harness the white/brown and white/green wires both run to the Parking/DRL bulb, so it would seem to me that one MUST be DRL and one must be Parking. But they don't meter out that way. For me, the white/brown is hot when in DRL AND PARKING mode and the white/green is hot when the turn signal is activated. Weird because that wire doens't go to the turn signal bulb. I originally wired my halos to the white/brown wire and they work in "night" mode (when the light sensor senses low enough light to dim the dash and turn on the headlights and the fender DRLs go to parking light mode) but they do not work in "day" mode, when the fender DRLs are lit. Before I finished the install the first time, I wired the halos to the white/green wire and they didn't come on at all, in any mode.

I'm going to take it apart again either today or tomorrow and do some more experimenting. I'm thinking about just tying the white/brown and white/green wires together and running the halos on that. I'll update when I have results.

Hey TheRaven are you sure the 80th runs on the same parking/drl/side markers as the Rubi and Sahara. I have one, with the halogens, and the entire Jeep is based off the Sport. When building it, the front LED package was so much different, in cost and feature, than the LED package from the Rubi/Sahara. I would like to know which is the correct one so that I can buy the right aftermarket LEDs or an OEM LED take off from a member.

 

[TheRaven]

An easier way in my opinion, use a fuse tap. Tap into one of the accessory fuses that you don’t use (cigarette lighter, seat warmer, etc), and run a wire from the halo to the fuse tap. Costed me $10 and took maybe 30 minutes to wire everything up. that’s if you want them on whenever your engine is on.

It's not just your opinion, it IS the easier way to do it. However you then have a wire running into your fuse box, which not only looks bad but is also a dead-giveaway to a dealer looking to dump the blame for some electrical issue on you. You also then have the halos on whenever your Wrangler is running, which is not how the factory DRLs work.

These could be inconsequential details for some, but I wanted an OEM-quality install.

Hey TheRaven are you sure the 80th runs on the same parking/drl/side markers as the Rubi and Sahara. I have one, with the halogens, and the entire Jeep is based off the Sport. When building it, the front LED package was so much different, in cost and feature, than the LED package from the Rubi/Sahara. I would like to know which is the correct one so that I can buy the right aftermarket LEDs or an OEM LED take off from a mmber.

Yes. The 80th is a weird animal actually. It is considered a sport, but is actually closer to a Sahara. It has Sahara bumpers and fenders...and it's because of those fenders that the lights are different than a Sport. The Sahara marker lights are bigger than the Sport markers. So if you replace the marker lights on your 80th, you need the ones from the Sahara, the ones from the Sport will not physically fit, nor wire up properly.

 

[BilletMike]

Update: I talked to a QuakeLED rep and he said all I need to do is use a scotch block to combine the two DRL wires. He said they have addressed the situation with recent manufacturing runs (changed the included wiring harness to connect to the correct wires). I am picking up the connector tonight, I'll write back hopefully with good news.

Final Update (at least from me): it worked perfectly. The scotchlok connects on the two DRL wires on the Quake-supplied wire harness. Passenger side wiring is definitely harder to get to, but no additional wire running to fuse box and no cutting/splicing the stock wires.

 

[TheRaven]

Final Update (at least from me): it worked perfectly. The scotchlok connects on the two DRL wires on the Quake-supplied wire harness. Passenger side wiring is definitely harder to get to, but no additional wire running to fuse box and no cutting/splicing the stock wires.

So you're saying they told you to bridge the green/white and brown/white wires together and connect the halo wire to that? If so, that's going to mess up your DRLs.

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